MasterMinds

Mine would be 3 well done bagels - darkened - with a thick layer of cream cheese - and a glass of very fine O.J. - although I often skip breakfast.

I think GregP's first statement is all the info needed. I have tried "neck" pickups in the bridges, and mid in the neck etc.. - and they all produce a sound just the same as many other positioned pickups. Ultimately hearing it is the only way you'll know, but on makes websites you can usually find a "bass mid treble" read out that gives you the general idea of it. Figure that into the fact that the bridge has higher overtones etc.. - this will give you an idea. for instance a pickup with high treble might be nice in the neck if you don't like boomyness - and a deep one might be nice in the bridge if it's your only pickup. So, like he said - don't follow the names, it'll all sound nice. I have tried all these and get tones that sound as good as anything! It's all about the bass/mid/treble read-outs.

My floyd rose tremelo system is grungy. It has spots, and black stuff on it. Using cleaner and q tips and scrubbing doesn't solve the issue like I'd like it to. What could I use to clean or soak this stuff in to get it as shiny as possible? What's the cheapest solution? Thanks

.. what would i need if i did seven strings and dropped it 3 (or two and a half, depending on how you look at it lol) steps so that.. the first 6 would be B standard and the 7th string is.. wait.. what WOULD the 7th string be if i did that.. ? ?-b-e-a-d-g-b ← The standard guitar tuning cycle is this: E a d g b E a d g b E a d g b It's a cycle of 5 pitches in order. Since a guitar is six strings, it repeats the first chosen note once. So, if you want a seven string, you'd get the following, low to high - in standard tuning B E A D G B E Basically normal with one lower cycle on low string. If you're tunining the entire thing so each string is one less, then you want to go for the lowest seven strings of an 8 string guitar in standard tuning. G B E A D G B That'd be your seven string tuning dropped a full string in the standard tuning. But, you have a second option. Instead of going with standard tuning of a guitar, dropped one full string with a low seventh - you could go with the guitars standard INTERVALS, not the actual pitch tunes. The intervals are, of course: Perfect 4th - Perfect 4th - Perfect 4th - Major Third - Perfect 4th Or, if you don't know what that means. up 5 notes - up 5 notes - up 5 notes - up 4 notes - up 5 notes So you could go that route, starting from any point. I think both are your options - and you might experiment with them. One will give you standard power chord shapes, the other might provide you better chord forms, and more familiar lead lines. PS: Sorry if one of the notes/intervals in this is wrong I am doing this off top of my head.

Can you post the type it is, or is it a nameless one that came with the guitar? I can post lists of the color coding for many companies, but need specifics. otherwise, you can set up the strings and test what is what.

I needed to put new wires on my single-sized pickup. They go onto four eyelets on the front of it. The wires were getting to loose. The problem is, they're very touchy. Soldering them on didn't work - and they only make a connection when I mess with them a bit. All I was doing is soldering them onto the small circular eyelets. Should I solder off more of the eyelets to get to the "raw" connection underneath? How should this be done, thanks.

Why don't you head over to physicsforums.com and see what they think? I already discussed this with them and posted to this thread, so they'll know what you're talking about. It's a simple function of two-dimensional physics that a force in one dimension cannot have an affect in any other dimensions. A tension force on a string runs in the dimension of the string. The nut does not have the ability to create forces in this dimension, except one force, which is friction. Therefore the nut cannot possible cause tension on a string. Sorry if people think I am wrong - but I side with physics, not with misinformation. I find it sad that no one here will bother to confirm this undeniable fact with other physicists, and continue to work from false information.

tirapop - that formula is not helpful, because it's not a function. One must use a function to describe this situation, and you've not posted it in that form. I will explain with another example. DISTANCE FROM NUT TO FRET X = [ A - B / C ] + B A - scale length in inches B - distance from fret x-1 to nut C - 17.81700000 It's really simple. First we will calculate first fret, on a 25.5 scale - since any decent person here knows that this value is 1.431217 A = 25.5 B = distance from fret x-1 (which is 1-1) is 0, distance from 0 to 0 = 0 C = 17.817 [25.5 - 0 / 17.817] + 0 = 1.431217 simple.

Sorry but someone who says that homosexuals are "beasts" and are part of an "era of evil" signalling the third coming of the antichrist, is a hate-monger and I'm glad he's no longer on this planet. The pope has published books of direct hate towards non-believers, homosexuals, africans, jews, muslims, woman, and many other groups all his life. He has funded the enforcement of his religion into impoverished countries - by making starving people go to church in order to recieve food and medical treatement. This is not the kind of person who should live. http://www.whosoever.org/v5i4/offense.html http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/4288103.stm

GregP - You are still stating the false notion that the tension at the headstock plays no role, and that is simply not true. EXAMPLE Pick up any acoustic or electric with no locking tremelo. pluck the headstock to nut "G" string while bending the nut to bridge of the G string. The string pitch changes. Now pluck the normal part of the G string while pushing down on the headstock to nute part of the g string. Again, the pitch changes. As you can clearly and empirically see (unless all hope is lost) pushing down on the part of the string BEFORE or AFTER the nut always affects the opposite side of the string. Tension at the tuning peg will inhibit the pulling of the string upwards towards the headstock, and instead pull more towards the side of the bridge. The nut does not magically cut off forces acting on the upper string, unless it is a locking nut. All forces and all movement at that end is affecting the FULL string, as I have shown above. In your last paragraph, you refer to the tension caused by tuning a string to pitch. You're misunderstanding what tension is, let me educate you. tension is a type of force - like weight. Tension is defined as the force caused by a stationary object witholding the will of movement to another stationary object. standard physics. When you tie a string tight, to two polls - one on each end. There are three forces occuring on the string. one is gravitation, the other two are tension. on each end there is one tension force, it points from the pole towards the center of the string. Another standard formula will show you that this force decreases in NEWTONS (that's the measurement of a force, more newtons more weight et.c...) as you move towards the center. Now, if you're not familiar with physics in two dimensions, let me give you a simple rule. A force acting in one dimension can have NO affect (no dimensional reprocussions) in other dimensions. The tension force of a string acts along the string. A nut cannot affect this force, by the very definition of newtons laws. So, if you saw that the nut has anything to do with tension, you're saying newtonian physics are flawed. That's a bold statement.

I think they look wonderful. A nice change from the normal boringness, without any change in technicality.

You're not only misquoting me, but completely confusing terms, and posting links which go directly against your statements. Firstly, your brain is note "wired" for or against perfect pitch. THe second link you posted states that in the very first sentence. Did you even read it? It states that their studies show that "we are all born with this simple ability" which can be accessed - like any other ability - through practice. Secondly, did you even bother to read the link you posted as "isn't wired correctly"? It has NOTHING to do with perfect pitch - it is about a woman in canada who cannot "carry a tune to save her life". That says absolutely nothing about recognizing a pitch and naming it - it refers to her inability to reproduce a mimicing tone herself Thirdly, every article you posted clearly states that all subects developed an increase in ability to identify a note from the chromatic scale when practicing. So seriously, know what you're posting - read the stuff - and recognize when you're wrong and let it die.

I'll admit I haven't studied zero frets much. How does a zero fret do that? It really doesn't make much sense to me ← On a zero fret, the strings ALL rest on a fret, all the time. The role of the nut as resting strings is removed - and so, if a normal nut is cause for sharpening and flat, then that won't be occur. On a corrective nut, it moves the nut position seperate for each string right? This is to deal with tension occuring at the nut. But, on a zero fret system, the open fret is not cause for (much) tension - and the "nut" on a zero fret acts merely as a holder for the strings not to slide off the guitar. So where's the tension occuring? Way back at the tuning pegs, way out of the way of the fretting areas, thus removing the tension from the playing area.

It's not that difficult a set of sentences Marzocchi705, you shouldn't have much issue with it. Let me spell it out for you. 1. perfect pitch is not a mystery 2. it is however a non-existant ability people use to seem elite 3. learning to memorize 12 notes is not what perfect pitch is, and it's very easy to do. Now, does Marzocchi705 get it this time, if not use babelfish.com and translate to your native language.

i would do the V - but what are those things hanging off it? The rest of the wood won't go to waste - remember you can make other parts of your guitar out of wood man. You can make pickup covers from wood, you can make stained wood inlays, you could make wood knobs, etc... lot's of uses to practice other things, even if you don't want them for this guitar - but another one!

A guitars tension near the first inches of the nut cause the notes to be sharpened. a nut will flat them a bit, to compensate for the nut. a zero fret moves the tensioned part of the string away from the first fret - thus moving the area that's sharpe. the two are "in all ways" comparing to each other.

Peace, not Pope.

f(x) = string length from nut to the x nut = [ [ [Z] - [x-1] ] / [A] + [x-1] ] Distance of nut to nut is = 0 plug in "24" and x = 1 for first fret [ [ [24] - [1-1] ] / [17.817] + [1-1]] reduce 24 / 17.817 = 1.347 -- as you stated. Now do second nut, x = 2 [ [ [24] - [2-1] ] / [17.817] + [ 2-1 ] ] reduce [ [24 - 1] / [17.817] ] + 1 [23/17.817] + 1 distance from nut to fret 2 is 2.2909 Be sure you use the right order of operations, i was a bit vague above - here is the proper syntax distance from nut to x = f(x) = [ [ [Z] - [x-1] ] / [A] + [x-1] ] let me know how it goes and I can share results to make sure you got it for 24 scale length, thanks!

lovekraft - your answer contained a small vagueness. You said "just connect the pickup to the output plug". Do you think you could do me a tremendous favor of posting a picture diagram - altering the above one - so I get it right the first time? I wasn't sure if BOTH pickup cables should go to the same tip of the input plug, or the green one should go where it ended up when it passed through the vol/tone controls. I want to be sure I do it right the first time, thanks man appreciate it!

rabjet - your best bet isn't to ask people here. Just go online, to manufacturers you like and some custom ones you find here, and take a look at what you like. And what you need - do you need a wicked vibrato system? Or do you not. What's your playing style. Just make a list of possibilities - colors (gold, black, silver) and then go looking for solutions. search musiciansfriend.com for many options and get an idea of choices. for instance I like the vertical tuning pegs instead of normal ones, you might not. I don't know much about tailpieces as I never used one. Try to narrow your questions by finding examples of what you like! Make a folder on your PC of a "collage" of photos of guitar parts you like.

Anyone can learn to identify the note of the chromatic scale a given note is. Perfect Pitch is no mystery, and it's nothing special. There's plenty of programs that help someone develop it. It's as easy as learning to detect which sound matches which letter of a 12-letter alphabet. I took one program which logged like 7 hours for me and I could do it for the piano range, I still don't have a use for it.

← annoyance has now become a form of art.

Godin - anyone with sense knows the only way to get a true acoustic sounds is with a line 6 digital electric (300) and a 2700 dollar acoustic emulator. april fools! a taylor 614 CE kind of looks good. But I don't know that much about acoustics of that cost. I like the cort special editions, they're very pretty and sound nice for 650

I like the zero fret also because it makes consistant sounds. we all love the sound of an open string, i wish i could have every note sound that way - but I'd rather they all be consistant. sometimes in a song a chord with open and closed notes sounds garbly to me. Before someone considers any corrective issues - they out to test - on a GOOD tuner - whether their nut/string/fretboard and playing style is worth correcting. you have to see there's a problem befroe you treat - chances are there is a problem but you never know. you might like shorter frets anyhow.

by rotary - you mean a selector that is a turning knob? if so, that's a neat idea as it takes less space than a long selector switch. if not, let me know as i never heard of it, thanks!