1guitarslinger

Now I get it...

I was replying to the email I received from you where you told me to feel free to eat a certain part of your anatomy. I'm afraid my reply was not very interesting. I simply wished you a nice day at work. But, it doesn't really matter now. I wish you the best in your future endeavors.

oops...Edit ;-)

Great advice. I used to have an old Harmony amp a long time ago, till I did something really stupid (I was very young) and blew it up. Visual inspection first is always the way to go. Look at the tubes when the amp is powered up. See if one is dark, or glowing too bright. Swap the tubes with known good ones and see what happens. Probably time for new tubes anyway. With the amp unplugged and the filter caps discharged, check to see if any of the components look burnt. "Poke" at everything with a chop stick or wooden skewer or something to see if any resistors or other components, or their leads are cracked. Like LK said, it is probably a tube, or maybe the opto isolator as PM pointed out, or it could be something else... Good luck with it. EDIT AND DISCLIAMER: To all, don't go messing around inside a guitar amp, plugged in or unplugged, unless you are confident that you know what you are doing. It's worth it to pay a tech a few $ rather than get yourself blown up. Let the tech get blown up...that's what he's paid for! ;-) Seriously, you can get hurt and/or damage the amp by the higher voltages. Be careful.

I don't think I have ever seen these. But, with all of the interesting accessory parts out there, it seems like they would be available.

Agreed.

Lovekraft, please correct me if I'm wrong. If I remember correctly, capacitance increases as the wire diameter increases. So using wire much thicker than needed can cause problems, including phasing issues with some frequencies. This would be more of an issue with long guitar cables, and speaker cables. I always thought the main reason for using stranded wire versus solid was that it was less likely to break due to vibration. It's much easier to break a solid wire by bending back and forth a few times than stranded.

Base plates are excellent, but they only work properly on vintage style pickups where they can be mounted flush on the base of the pickup's lower flatwork, right against the alnico rod magnets.

If he is going to rewind the pickups, he might as well replace the ceramic bar magnets with alnico rod magnets. But this would require new flatwork. New flatwork, new magnets, new wind...he's just made a new set of pickups! ;-) ← you know whats funny? i actually got around to removing the pickups from the guitar, and they dont have a bar magnet on the bottom of the pickup, only a cover.. does this mean they're alnico? ← Hmmm...Do you see the 6 individual rod magnets from the bottom? or what do you see exactly?

If he is going to rewind the pickups, he might as well replace the ceramic bar magnets with alnico rod magnets. But this would require new flatwork. New flatwork, new magnets, new wind...he's just made a new set of pickups! ;-)

.022uF tone caps are typical for P-90's. .047uF might be too dark sounding.

Though they are single coil pickups, 500k pots are typically used with P-90's

Herzlich Willkommen Florian!

Not really anything you can do to the pickups except live with them or replace them.

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100 watts? You could use that for welding! Seriously, is there any chance you could post a photo of it? Also, it is important to tin your tip properly when it is new, and before each use. Here are some soldering iron tips from one of my pages. I hope this helps. It is very important to "tin" your soldering iron's tip properly before the first use, and periodically afterward so that it will be shiny and heat conductive all over the very tip. If the tip is not shiny, then its heat transfer will be poor, and you will have difficulty making good soldering joints. It's sort of like "seasoning" an iron skillet if you will. There are several ways to tin a tip, but this method is effective and works with just solder and a damp sponge. Use caution when tinning your soldering iron; it will get very hot. 1. Get a damp sponge, install a new tip, and plug in the iron. 2. When the soldering iron is hot, flow a bunch of solder all over the tip so that that whole area all the way around is coated with solder. It will smoke quite a bit. 3. With the damp sponge on a heat-resistant surface, "quench" the tip on it, rolling the entire tip around on the sponge. It will steam and hiss. 4. For best results, repeat a second time. 5. Your soldering iron tip should be nice and shiny. Now you are ready to solder. After using your soldering iron, and before unpluging it, glob up the tip with solder, and leave the solder on the tip. Unplug the iron and allow to cool. This coating of solder will protect the tip from oxidation, so that the soldering iron will work well in the future. Do not scrape the tip with a wire brush or anything else, as this removes the conductive coating.

Wes, I hope the other issues of thread respect will be tightened up as well. Keep up the good work.

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I was puzzled by the "A" as well, and agree that we must consider the source! It does seem that the Burstbucker and Burstbucker Pro pickups that Gibson is using these days are not lacking so bad in high freqs. 300k volume pots might be a good choice for them. I don't really think that would be true for many other humbuckers. I had read that about the out of spec pots from back then. Thats about 40% out of tolerance? Yikes.

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Actually that info from Thomann is correct. Gibson has been using 300k linear pots for volume, and 500k audio for tone for some time now on production models. Read the tech note here Check the values here as well I'm not sure why they use 300k lin pots for the volume controls as most players don't like it. That is one of the first mods that many players do is swap those for 500k audio taper pots.

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I should be able to get you what you're looking for. Email me at info@specialtyguitars.com with the details...American spec. metric etc. Welcome back anytime Matt. Paul