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thedoctor

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Everything posted by thedoctor

  1. thedoctor
    Crafty, Crafty, Crafty!!! What are you doing, man??? Do not tell everybody about your good, backdoor sources!!! If that broke Gibson 335 is not there when I go to buy it, you are in a world of crap!!!!
  2. thedoctor
    If you are gonna play "slide blues" what part do the frets take? Brass on brass is a very bad wear issue. I would make sure you got that neck(only one, right?) pickup secured well to the body and run some Darco or Martin hybrids. Been discussed a couple of times last week. NO flat wounds!
  3. thedoctor
    It's close enough that you will never know the difference, if you are building from scratch. Matt's bass isn't a '51 but that is where the concept came from. Build it, they will come.
  4. thedoctor
    Hey, Doc, who asked for a reasonable, informed, experienced, rational, to the point, relevant, topical, sensitive, mature, adult, non-biased opinion on this thread? Would you just butt the heck out and let the digression continue? I mean, the NERVE of some folk!!!
  5. thedoctor
    Ask Wes to reply. I think he went through this a year or two ago and had a snappy repair for it. Snappy, where the heck did that term come from? HMMMM....... Mispent youth is something you only get to do once but it haunts you the rest of your.........I remmember!! Snappy Sam Smoot from the old ZAP comic books!! Yeah, That's it. Heh, heh, he....what were we talking about again?
  6. thedoctor
    I got a buy on a 1998 ES 135 but I don't know if I should just wait and get the new model or pick this one up. Not a real bargain but it is WAY cool. They put some blocking in the body to try to make it more "loud-friendly" but that really isn't how I play. Oh, I should have said this purchase will be for ME(YEAH,ME) and not one I would sell, unless it has issues I can't live with. I believe the new model is a 175 but that could be a few digits off. Archtop, f-hole, couple P-90s or sumpthin. If you know the real difference in playability, I would LOVE to hear it!!!! Thanks. Edit, edit, edit!!! It is a 137! Sorry, memory is the first to......no, it is the second to......no it is the...ughhhh....what was the question again?
  7. thedoctor
    OK. Take any string tree you got off completely. Tune it and try it again. When that doesn't work(it won't but do it anyhow) squirt some Lemon Pledge (don't you just LOVE the smell?) on the nut and try it again. Lastly, make sure your tuners aren't Pings, because they had to come up with that name somewhere.
  8. thedoctor
    GregP is telling it straight. Unless you got some component switch-out time under your belt, don't mix actives and passives and expect perfection. Look at the single-coil humbucker direct replacements that SD and others offer. I love them because there is no routing, pickguard-cutting or offensive smells involved. Makes my life a lot easier and I LOVE the results. More important, my customers love the results. As long as it is the bridge PU, it go just like Lovecraft said as far as wiring.
  9. thedoctor
    You know, putting a brass or steel plate under the bridge pin underbody is a good thing for two reasons. You get a good bite with the ball-ends of the strings that doesn't wear out and you got a place to ground. The accoustic purist would hate this because it adds mass to the belly of the guitar under the bridge but, hey, you are trying to ground it for a pickup. Your call.
  10. thedoctor
    Actually MrAlex, I was hoping he would find time to contribute to the welder repair forum, as noone on the forum knows everything. Maybe, as you said, he has his hands full taking care of your immediate needs. My bad.
  11. thedoctor
    People, just let him bow out gracefully. He may have issues he would just rather not discuss.
  12. thedoctor
    What he said!
  13. thedoctor
    cRAP, i GOT IT NOW! Who keeps turning the caps lock on? Boogers! A stereo L/R balance pot! Duhhh!
  14. thedoctor
    Put a 160k resistor in series with the ground end of that volume pot and trim it to a lower value if you can't kill the volume to suit you. CTS does not make the best pots for this case.
  15. thedoctor
    Some production-line guitar builders painted some REALLY pretty wood. The Asian Fender copies are really bad about this. I think someone was watching the wood going through the Mexico plants because they didn't waste much good wood.
  16. thedoctor
    Yep, that is why it is an approximate reading. I don't use digital meters for a lot of reasons but one is that an analog meter puts a light load on everything it tests. The reading you get with an analog is closer to the impedance than the resistance reading you will get with a digital. Watch the arguement that follows this one.
  17. thedoctor
    A worn nose-bearing in the router can also cause tearout. They can feel thight as heck and still let the bit feed itself towards the work, especially at light feeds. May be why he goes so fast.
  18. thedoctor
    You will get a rough idea by using an ohmeter across the terminals set on Rx1. It won't be exactly 4, 8 or 16 but it should be close enough to make a good guess. Some measure a little high. some a little low. It is a dynamic value, not a static one so you might even find two identical speakers that measure different.
  19. thedoctor
    No, it's as clear as can be but I just don't believe they make such a cool pot. You know, why make it easy?
  20. thedoctor
    I tried, though not very hard, to get the basic set from Line and my best advice would be to buy one of the under $600.00 models and part it out. The necks suck rather large and the bodies are very nonimpressive but you would then know what the electronics are gonna cost you.
  21. thedoctor
    Naw. That is why I say digital photography gives us much more info than we really need. Ever little thing stands out above 6 megapx and it makes stuff look garish if not downright obscene. The top doesn't look too cool either but I know that is the camera. What diameter glass did you use to get the light to the spots and did you use optical splitters or just nick the sides of the glass? By the way, no need to limit yourself to one color. You could build a small "color-organ" circuit and have the color change with freq. or volume. Use four leds or two tricolors. Way cool.
  22. thedoctor
    Java, he is right about the thin-kerf ground blade but don't throw the package it comes in away. Cut ya some cushion washers out of the cardboard sleeve it comes in and put one on each side of the blade when you mount it. Takes a bunch of the vibration out when you are doing a light feed.
  23. thedoctor
    When you get your new amp, I hope it comes with a channel/effect pedal. If so, you can cut out two of the cables by putting an "effects loop" in the control pedal itself. Then you plug your axe into the pedal and put your favored effects in a 100% bypassable loop with a stomp switch you add to the pedal. Makes for a clean setup and is 100% bypassed. My nephew does this for a couple music stores and he calls it "The JB Buzz Killer". The Marshall pedals and the Genz pedals have plenty of room for it. The newer FFFenders or a bit more of a challenge. You gotta add three jacks and a switch.
  24. thedoctor
    Somewhere in the electronics tutorial/reference area I thought I had put in a link to DIYaudio. When you get to their site, you are REQUIRED to do a search before you can post. Kinda cool for newbies or folk with a quick question.
  25. thedoctor
    It's cheating but I know what I am getting. One of the truck drivers saw the music store three towns away putting a used Fender HotRod DeVille in the trunk of my wifes Caddy. I repaired it about 6 months ago and the customer abandoned it rather than pay the bill. I have been trying to buy it (cheap) from the store for the last couple of months. My wife. I think I'll keep her. HEY! They put a DeVille in a Seville!! What are the chances of that ever happening again?
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