lovekraft

Is this the setup you've got in that thing ? If it's similar to this, it's a simple clipper that chops the peaks off your signal - the pot is unimportant to the clipping, just allows you to regulate the level where the clipping starts. With no pot (or a wide-open setting), the diodes slowly start draining off current to ground as the voltage rises. Silicon signal diodes clip at about 600mV, germaniums at about 300, so this effect will be a lot more obvious with really hot pickups. If you need to know more about how it works, do a search on diode DC transfer function or fuzzbox. Basically, it's a Muff Fuzz with lowered gain. You could even use a larger value for R1 - 2 megs should have little or no audible effect on the output highs regardless of setting. Diodes and pots are cheap, and folks with active pickups or preamps could get some seriously harsh distortion at high settings if you play around with the settings. This is the basic principal behind those '60s cheap fuzzboxes. Hope that helps - gotta go get my soldering iron!!

Hey, Jeremy, if you have time, as an obvious expert, could you explain a little about airbrush options, and why we want (or don't want) 'em. I 've been looking at some, but I'm completely bogged down in side-feed vs. gravity feed vs. siphon, dual vs. single action, internal mix, etc. Everybody I've talked to has a different take on what works, and why, but I've seen your work (awesome), and thought maybe you could clarify how it works. Thanks muchly,

You can also try here - Mann Made they make real PRS replacements.

Check with Brian Universal Jems . You might find 'em cheaper, but I doubt you'll be happy with your purchase.

This page will explain the basic technique: Faux Finishes If you have time (and perhaps some major tranquilizers), a day watching HGTV will probably give you more info on this technique than you ever wanted to know. Basically, a (usually) dark basecoat is covered with a semi-transparent "glaze" in a different color. Then the glaze, which dries very slowly, is removed in streaks with brushes, combs, feathers and/or a rag or crumpled palstic bag to reveal the base coat. Some faux stone techniques use 3 or more color coats. If I understand correctly, the HOK marbleizer is a transparent extender that allows ample time to smoosh the top coat - a combo of clear and retardant might work. My SO (either senior officer or significant other, take your pick) is a home decorating nut, and has done this with latex with some nice results. Search "faux finish" or "rag painting" for more info.

Dunno if this is any help, but a couple of my Raver/Industrial buds used some of the paint from these two sources to "decorate" their warehouse space without the landlord knowing. They both also make "invisible" UV paint. Risk Reactor Shannon Luminous Materials They used spray lacquer if I'm not mistaken, and had good results - doesn't show with the lights on.

Traditionally, volume pots are log or audio taper - the only reason for a log tapered pot is to attempt to match the essentially logarithmic response of the human ear, ie half rotation equals half perceived volume. There are no other physical differences, and I've used linears in a pinch, but it sure was hard to get used to. The analogy is power amps - a 100w Marshall is nowhere near twice as loud as a 50 watt, but it is louder. hope that helps.

undefined It always amuses me to see Ed Roman portrayed as the AntiChrist of Guitardom, especially since he continues to make a profit in spite of his professed underhanded practices and shoddy products. Now before you all start fueling up your flamethrowers, let me make clear that my only experience with Ed, other than surfing his site. was a long phone conversation over a decade ago. I called to ask about a BC Rich bass he had, and he was not only personable and helpful, but even after it became clear that he didn't have what I was looking for, he helped me out with some questions I had about Rich's Custom Shop and some other info, including a plug for Rick Turner's stuff (which I still can't afford, but wold love to own). His input led me to have a bass built in'93, a decision I've never regretted. I've also heard horror stories about his dealings, but I've never gotten any details more specific than "yeah, man, my brother's pool guy's cousin's veterinarian bought a (fill in brand name here) from Ed Roman, and, like, it sucked, and he wouldn't do nothin' about it, man, he's a ripoff!!", so if anyone here knows of actual incidents, I'd like to hear what really happened. As an Ebay junkie, I know that negative feedback is easy to get, and is just as likely to be a result of buyer remorse or a perceived slight as a real incident ( example: an associate of mine recently sold an item, was payed with Paypal, shipped the next day, but neglected to email the customer. Result: Neutral feedback "Buyer did not respond to email" even though UPS tracking and feedback date show the item arrived within 48 hrs of the auction close!). In these litigation-happy times, don't you think that if half of these rumors were true, it'd be Johnny Cochran's World Class Guitars? Don't get the idea I'm defending anyone, that is not the case, I just don't like to see anyone innuendo'ed to death. I'd just like to find out what he's accused of, specifically, so I can make my own judgement. No disrespect to anyone here, but I'm not willing to just take anyone's word for it. My too sent

That's sweet!! I love the one-piece top - bet that set you back a few bucks. Is that lacquer, or something more exotic? Awesome figure on that top!

This is too cool - how 'bout, maybe, Roger Sadowsky, Wayne Charvel, Bill Lawrence, Joe Barden, Ed Roman (if he can behave himself ), Paul Reed Smith, Dan Torres, Mark Johnson, Terry McInturff, ..OK, just anybody who's willing... Oh, and there's also Mike Tobias, Linda Manzer, Rick Turner, Bob Benedetto, Steve Klein... (wanders off, mumbling to himself)

Jeremy, that's superb! Is that a PPG blue met, or something more exotic? The vine inlay is exquisite! I just spent the day looking at guitars, and the only thing close to that was a PRS met red. I gotta learn how to do that...

Tony. I think I've got a copy of Jamie Unden's LP Junior plans and a body templatefor a DC in DXF format if that'll help any. I'll dig through my drives and see if I can find 'em. Lemme know, and I'll try ot email 'em to ya.

Now that is one gorgeous finish!! OK, tell us, unless it's a proprietary secret: is that PPG paint? I assume you airbrushed the drips and pentagram - freehand, or did you use a template? I hope I live long enough to learn how to do work like that.

Thanks, Jeremy, I knew somebody would help me out. The reason I was interested is because I'd lke to develop a water-based finish schedule. I sprayed nitro several decades ago, but after having several friends and two family members develop serious health problems from daily solvent exposure, I was trying to find something a little less toxic. I love the look of urethanes, but the MSDS's rate it as slightly less toxic than an airborne nerve gas. I was wondering mostly how you felt the color quality was, since my lack of talent makes the fine detail problems a non-issue I think the pearls and kandys are gorgeous, and would like to use them over a clear sealer, so the grain shows through. OK, enough babbling - thanks for your help!! Oh, and BTW, your site, and your work are breathtaking. William

Hey, are any of you using or does anyone have any experience with Createx Auto Air? the new colors, especially the Kandies, look interesting, and I would like a water-based alternative for HOK. The manufacturers say you can use any poly or waterbased clear for a top coat, so I'm looking for some info before I jump in over my head. Thanks,

If you're serious about doing a flame job, go here: http://www.customflamepainting.com/cgi-bin.../ultimatebb.cgi You'll have to register. but it's free, and the folks are really helpful if you're respectful and not megadumb