Jump to content
Entry in the May 2024 Guitar of the Month contest is now open ×

Ledzendrix1128

Established Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    389

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Ledzendrix1128

  1. Ledzendrix1128
    the only thing id look out for is not letting ANY water get underneath that pickgaurd. If it gets in there your gonna have to drain it out or it will damage the wood just soaking inside the cavities. and if your draining out that much water its probably going to screw up the swirl. there has to be some kind of solution though. you could possibly get away with trying to pour it out of the pickup holes, but i wouldnt do it on a valuable guitar if you know what i mean. heh heh... another problem is that once you do the pickgaurd and the body together, as soon as you take off the pickgaurd the paint is going to flake off. But enough of my problems im creating... someone must have a solution....
  2. Ledzendrix1128
    sounds good matt, thanks for the help. I'll run all these ideas by my shop teacher too and see what he thinks.
  3. Ledzendrix1128
    IDK man... neil young is pretty far from a hill billy... his recent stuff is all protesting environmental stuff... any of you guys seent that greendale stuff? it kinda gets on my nerves... and im a pretty big neil young fan too
  4. Ledzendrix1128
    so i bought this swiss made gouge from woodcraft the other day. Its about 1/2 inch wide with a radius on it (cant tell you offhand) its pretty large... its not a small one at all... I dont know if you can tell what im talkin about but i have 2 questions 1) is that gouge i described useful for carving guitars and 2) if i dont have a good router at my house or much less an angle grinder what would be the best hand tool way to approach a prs STYLE carve... its not gonna be exact... but that the most similar example i can think of. Im thinking about investing in a nice fingerplane next paycheck too... i should probably open a new thread... but i just got off work and im tired
  5. Ledzendrix1128
    carving guitar tops - adding the carves inside the horns that is (like on PRS horns). Not sure what i want to use to do the gradual contours... a spokeshave is good you think?... If you cant tell im pretty new to carving BTW - yesterday i bought a swiss made gouge from woodcraft for $40. I used it doing a carve on a piece of ash just to see how it feels, and i got pretty good results, its nice and sharp... I learned how to also avoid getting my knuckles all bloody from banging them against the wood.
  6. Ledzendrix1128
    just to make sure we're all on the same page: Palm Handled Regular Handled
  7. Ledzendrix1128
    If your looking for cheap stuff i had pretty good results using duplicolor you can get at walmart. Its an auto-body paint that has laquer in it (i believe) and you can buy a clear coat of duplicolor as well to spray on top of it (all rattlecans). And also if you wanna pay a little more there is stuff at www.stewmac.com. Go to the finishing products, there is a black laquer you can buy. Spray a couple coats of that until the black is opaque, then spray the clear coat nitrocellulose they sell. You can get a pretty nice finish out of either of those. But you said its a small scale guitar so you would probably want to go with the first way I mentioned as it is a lot less expensive. Be sure to post pics when you do it!
  8. Ledzendrix1128
    yeah... you have to look at it closely, i just find it comical that they sued PRS... compare the PRS single cut to the les paul, then compare the Duo Jet to the les paul... the duo jet in my opinion has many more similar qualities than the single cut does. I know they are all completely different guitars probably once you get them in your hands, but i just find it comical on gibson's part.
  9. Ledzendrix1128
    What I dont understand is how Gibson sued PRS for the single cut... and not gretsch for the duo jet... or did they?
  10. Ledzendrix1128
    Im having trouble grasping the concept of how in the world that will give you enough space to spray a guitar body in. I dont know about you guys, but id need a lot more room than that to get every angle onto a guitar wihtout banging it against the walls of that thing. Just my 2 cents
  11. Ledzendrix1128
    i havent seen an sg in a while here, go for the SG.
  12. Ledzendrix1128
    its still there, i chose to get it as HSH style incase i ever wanted to switch to 3 single coils
  13. Ledzendrix1128
    So i scuff sanded everywhere, but just to clarify.. should i also sand the edges. I know ive been told to never sand edges bc you can easily sand through. and i also didnt sand very deep, and the dust got everywhere, but when i wiped it down with water, theres still spots that are shiny. Im afraid im gonna sand though bc of the paint swirl being raised, so if i sand completely level it will most likely cut through to the paint. is it really necessary to eliminate ALL shiny spots?
  14. Ledzendrix1128
    well if your gonna put a poly clear on the fret board, i wouldnt bother putting tung oil on it too. I think poly works better when its put on directly on wood vs over a coat of oil. I think you CAN do it, but i dont really see the point.
  15. Ledzendrix1128
    next project is this... i KNOW for a fact im gonna do the maple/walnut neck laminate. 4 string, 34" scale, 24 fret, through-neck body. For body woods im thinkin im gonna use walnut with either a spalt maple top or a 5A quilt top. Fret board im thinkin either cocobolo, ebony, or ziricote. I have all of the neck laminates cut to the right thickness and planed... ready to be glued on monday. Hopefully i can use the stuff i learned from finishing this, the swirled LP, and another pearlescent body i did to make this look flawless. Im going for a high-gloss natural wood finish, in other words, no stains or tints, except for maybe an amber tint if i have a compressor when it comes time to finish it.
  16. Ledzendrix1128
    double post
  17. Ledzendrix1128
    Oh yeah, those pickups are going to be replaced with gold covered ones, those are stock epiphone pickups from an old guitar, so when i get the new pickups it should sound even nicer than it does now. This was a nice guitar to learn on though (finishing guitars). im starting a bass build from scratch in my woodshop class... ill be glueing up the 5 peice walnut/maple through-neck on monday.
  18. Ledzendrix1128
    finally buffed her up. Ill try to post a picture in a little better light thats less blurry sometime soon, but heres the final product. Her name is Valhalla
  19. Ledzendrix1128
    ok cool, its cold out here again, i should be able to level sand today around 5 (the 73 hour mark) and when it gets warm out again i will try to get it finished and post some pics
  20. Ledzendrix1128
    yeah i dont think the sags are even bad enough for the 100 grit thing.... they leveled out since the finish cured a little bit. But another problem that i cant avoid without level sanding any is the fact that its a swirl.. the swirls themselves are adding random areas of unevenness... i dont know if this is normal or not, but im gonna just level it off a few times throughout this process of clearcoating, and it should turn out nicely.
  21. Ledzendrix1128
    ahhhh i see, so you guys think 5 coats is enough to level off those sags without sanding through too easily?... or should i just spray over them till i get a nice thick build, then level it all and spray a top coat with the last can or soemthin?... ive only gone through like 1 and 1/8 of a can... and i started with 4 total... so i got almost 3 more cans to play around with. would i be better off continuing spraying clear and sanding the sags out at the end?
  22. Ledzendrix1128
    your reffering to if you sand through to the wood/paint right? as long as you only sand the poly, the top coat isnt effected correct. Cuz i got the sag after the 5th double coat i sprayed (go over the body twice at a time). I plan on waiting 72 hours (like the directions say). Im running this by you guys cuz it ALSO says to wait 3 days before buffing... and from what i hear.. .thats just a tad too quick. Someone else told me i should be scuff sanding between coats. If i do this, how long should i wait before i scuff sand? the directions say 2 days... is it really necessary to wait that long? And thanks nate, the big 18 now.
  23. Ledzendrix1128
    Have you listened to St. Anger? im only kidding though, most of my metallica worshipping friends ignore the fact that st anger was ever made. Sure i will agree that metallica is legendary though.
  24. Ledzendrix1128
    thanks eric, yeah i was definately planning on spraying more coats, but i was jsut concerned about how the new coat would react with the old one compared to the way nitro does, but i already got the answer to the question just using my head... kind of an impulsive post here... sorry bout that lol
  25. Ledzendrix1128
    i got some sags from my poly urethane on the swirl job i did. so i need to save it... i sanded nitro when i got a drip in it and had no problems, but i didnt know if poly will work the same way, since the coats dont react together like nitro does. thanks again, - Louis
×
×
  • Create New...