Ledzendrix1128

a translucent emerald green to black burst would look nice on that in my opinion!

So wait, does someone, wanna give a brief explanation of what HVLP exactly is? does the lower pressure result in a better finish? Ive never looked in to buying paint guns before, so im completely ignorant when it comes to them. if you have a regular old air compressor, is getting a paint gun as simple as connecting a hose to the copmress, then to the gun? what all this talk about turbines i hear?

looks like a nice job to me. How are you planning on finishing it?

I might be Rounding edges by hand... im kind of scared

**drool**

looks good to me... i think this is a cool idea using mason jars. anywho check it out.

[quote name='deadmike' date='May 10 2005, 06:18 PM']painting question: im using nitro cellulose rattle can, black gloss. after about 8 light coats the guitar was looking great, no depth, but still great! but then after that the coats were coming out with bubbles in a localised area of the body. after sanding them down and respraying the pitting left behind filled up no probs and left no sign of bubbles.... only to have bubbles appear in other areas. the endless cycle began! ive tried to keep the spray area as clean as possible. could this be caused by contamination? i sanded and prepared this particular area (the front) alot better than the rest of the guitar and wiped it all down with white spirits before spraying. whats causing the bubbles??? [right][snapback]190916[/snapback][/right] [/quote] I had this same thing happen when i sprayed my guitar on a cold, cloudy morning... cam home from school and sprayed it and it was hot and dry out. This caused bubbles and i was told it was bc of the shift in climates. You wanna try to spray in an area that has a controlled climate, but since this is unlikely for a hobbyist (like me) i always try to spray in the middle of the day, so it doesnt get too cold at night or in the morning while its initially curing.

Can anyone tell me where i should buy splated maple for this bass. I looked on ebay... however I dont use ebay. But are their any good websites that sell it? I also checked gilmerwood.com but they require a minimum order of $100. So if anyone could help me out it would be appreciated. If also take suggestions. The neck will be a five peice maple/walnut through-body style neck... so i was thinkin spalted maple would look nice... however i was also thinkin about cocobolo or bocote. both of which are carried at my local place. But no spalt there! but i was thinking the cocobolo or any other dark wood wouldnt look very good with the maple/walnut neck. Any other suggestions? Pictures would be cool too! thanks again, Louis

I went to West Marine and bought some 3M marine quality finest it rubbing compound... and the guy workin there was really cool.... so i didnt mine payin a little extra for the marine quality (everything for boats is always more expensive than it should be).

hahahaha, your DEALER... yes... wood is a drug... its addicting.. and it satisfies cravings you get... and when your dealer gets a nice shipment in... you find your self selling things to buy it....

is it just me, or does your neck blank look like if you cut a little off the sides, you could make a whole other neck out of it. monster! nvm nvm, I saw the picture with the plane sitting on top of it... the pinstripes are just really small... I REALLY like that idea... small pinstripes make it look like a skilled woodworker made it. Good work

what i wanna know, is where do you guys get all your hard ware when you build these basses with 6+ strings. I havent seen many places selling 4x4 tuner sets and 8 string bass bridges. Im curious to see how expensive they are too.

well see, duplicolor mirage paint is a CHEAP alternative to the real thing... mine has color shift... but its only dramatic in the sunlight (like nate said). I dont think if you thinned your coat it woulda made a difference, ive read other people who got the same results... but for a finish that i got for only 18 dollars i was more than happy. The REAL stuff they use on expensive cars is REALLY expensive... someone posted a link to it in another forums if your interested you could try searching it.

I would say BEST is a 2 part Polyurethane... however you need a gun and compressor. Im doing a project now with solvent based paint, and i was told that i can use the stuff you can find at lowes... The Minwax brand polyurethane. So i will most likely be buying this today. Supposedly it wont mess as much with the colors underneathe its coat. It shrinks less when it dries, and dries harder too than nitrocellulose laquer. So I would suggest using a two part poly (if you have a compressor and gun) or the minwax poly (if you dont have a gun, this is an aerosol can). I'm not sure how this will react with an acryllic paint though, so if im giving bad advice someone feel free to chyme in! Your best bet would be to paint a small object with your acryllic paint, then laquer over that to see how it looks finished. - Louis

is this what i want to get? http://www.superiorcarcare.net/3mperllrubco.html It looks like they have fine cut, and medium cut perfect it. I sanded my finish down to 2000 grit, this supposedly leaves swirl marks. So if i used this in conjunction with a swirl remover, should i get a pretty high gloss?

Im leaning towards using the 3M finese it and perfect it to do final buffing... but the only place i can find it sells it in these $40 jugs... is there anywhere i can find it cheaper? where do you guys buy your buffing stuff? OR, would i just be better off ordering the set of 4 compounds off stew-mac... i think i could get enough money by the next paycheck... are the results of using those 4 compounds significantly different than using the 3M compounds? are they just a trick to get people to spend money? or is it actually gonna give me a higher gloss than the 3m stuff?

I put my stain on before the sealer. I was staining quilted maple though. With that type it might be better to go to www.reranch.com and look into their translucent paints. With these youd want to seal it first, then apply it. But with a regular wood stain, I dont think the sealer will accept the dye. Someone else may want to chyme in now... i did staining on quilt maple, but im not sure what the BEST way is to do it on this type of wood.

shouldnt go down too far, and once you put a new finish on it will make up for the finish you sanded off so it should be relitively the same size as before... I did a strat that i burnt with a blowtorch, added an oil finish.. then sanded that off and refinished it with a pearlescent paint, and the change hasnt been noticeable. So i wouldnt worry about that too much.

well... no... it wont be the same size.EDIT - there will be a FRACTIONAL difference. just make sure you sand uniformally and dont stay in one spot...otherwise itll reshape the body SLIGHTLY and yes, it will be smooth if you sand it right. once you get all that sealer off, switch to a higher grit paper, work your way up to like a 220 grit, take a wet rag and dampen the wood. This raises the wood fiber, sand that fiber off with 220 or 320 grit sand paper and repeat it once. After you do that it should be as smooth as bare would can get. I dont know what kind of wood that is.. but im not gonna go into sealer and grainfilling... theres whole tutorials on that.. BTW... if your going to use a translucent color, your gonna have to sand the sealer off to make it look uniform... but if your painting with solid colors, then you can just seal that one spot, spray a coat of primer, and it will be nice and even

congratulations man

sand sand sand

I used the duplicolor mirage paint on my strat (purchased from walmart). And it turned out fine ill try to get a few pictures up soon

so if cost wasnt an issue, sperzel of planet waves?

What about the Planet Waves auto trim tuners? Have anyone used these? They seem like a cool concept... but all that extra junk means nothing if they cant hold a tune.

you know, ive thought about doing this, but I never knew the consequences... I thought to myself, there must be a reason the major manufacturors dont do this, but i couldnt think of why. If someone who REALLY knows why they dont do this I would be interestede to hear too. My guess is that it may weaken the heal. maybe without the tightness of the screws threading through the heel it may dent/split the wood? Just my guess though... that reason is probably not right at all, so maybe someone who knows what they are talking about could answer?