GodBlessTexas

The question is, do you posess the skills to do the job to get the neck in the same shape as the one you played? Because if not, you're going to end up with a ruined guitar. If you do have your mind set on this, I highly suggest searching the Austin pawn shops and picking up one of the many import LP copies that where there when I went to UT a decade ago and spent all my time in pawn shops looking for guitars. Practice on one of those before ruining your Epiphone. Or better yet, go pick up a length of maple at least 3"x3"x12" and try shaping that. Jimmy Page LP: $$$$$ Replacing LP neck: $$$ Reprofiling the neck yourself: When I was young like you, I did some pretty stupid things to my most prized guitar. Now I'm paying almost more than what I bought it for to put it back together after 12 years of it being in non-playable shape. Sure. If it were me, and I didn't have access to the neck and a copy carver, here's what I'd do: Get yourself a contour gauge. You can get them at Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware, Harbour Freight, Sears, or just about anyplace that sells tools. The large home home improvement stores generally keep them in the power tools section. They're normally used to copy molding controus, curves, uneven edges, etc. Make sure the pins/teeth are at least 3" or more so you can get a complete measurement from back of the neck to the top of fretboard. Go back to the music shop and ask them to let you take some measurements of the neck. Take contour measurements every 1-2" and trace them on paper, labelling them in order from body to headstock or headstock to body. It's probably best to take a measurement on the neck for each contour trace so you know how far up/down it you were when you took the measurement. After you've done the whole neck, thank the music shop for letting you do something crazy in their store , and take the copies home to transfer the neck profiles to poster board and cut them out as templates. you'll want to cut them out as a reverse of the trace, meaning they should look like the contour gauge when you applied it to the neck, or more directly so that the part that the neck would fill is cut out on the powerboard. Use them to gauge how much you need to shave off your guitar neck by putting them at the same locations. Or, you could do the same thing you did with the Jimmy Page and take measurements of your neck at the same locations and compare the two to see how much work is going to need to be done. You might stop right there. Then get sanding. Even with an aggressive sandpaper, it'll take lots of time. Be sure to wear a good dust mask, even though you'll be working outside (you will be working outside!). Your lungs are very hard to replace. I personally use a respirator with particle filter attachments from 3M instead of a regular dust mask. Go slow, sanding only by hand, and check the contours often with your powerboard guides. Go And I've never done what you're asking, but that's just the process I would follow to make sure I didn't screw it up. If you had access to the Jimmy Page LP and the ability to put it in a copy carver with your guitar, it'd be a lot easier. But my advice is don't do it, and don't hold me responsible if you mess up. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

I'm up north of Dallas in Frisco/Plano/The Colony area. I love the Hill Country and went to UT. My wife and I were looking into some acreage down that way, but decided we'd stay up here for a while considering what I do for a living.

Gibson had a Les Paul with their "MaGIC" system that used Ethernet. Gibson Magic They used to have a page on the gibson.com webpage for the MaGIC system, but it's gone now. Basically, the Hex Pickup captures the signal from each individual string, converts it to digital, sends it out via the Ethernet jack over Cat-5 at distances up to 100m to a breakout box, which then converts it back to analog. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

The nut and bridge are already parallell. Do you mean the same width? Classical guitar necks don't taper and are usually flat, so there's no reason why you couldn't do it. However, they can be quite tiring to play. A tapered and radiused neck is more comfortable to play, and therefore more desirable to most players. I'm not aware of any technical reasons, but that doesn't mean much, as I don't know everything... yet! Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

Thats not true. Bondo cures chemically, the only thing given off during the reaction is heat. Whereas glue curing is an evaporative process, loss of water/solvents causes shrinkage. ← It has nothing to do with how it cures, and everything to do with the chemical makeup of Bondo. Bondo is a polyester based resin, just as most "fiberglass" resins that are sold on the market are. Bondo also contains talc and glass microballoons, but nothing to provide structural integrity. Epoxy resins also shrink, but to a much smaller degree than polyester and vinylester resins. If you do have to fill cavaties, a fiberglass strand infused filler like Kitty Hair or similar might be a better choice. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

Cool. I'm not a real big Blink 182 fan, but I love the Delonge Strat because it's just a straight ahead rock guitar. One pickup and one volume knob, like the old Charvelles. I'm planning on making one similar out of a Squier strat once my current refurbishing job is done. I look forward to seeing your build. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

I've only compared the Invader (SD) to the Detonator (DD/DP), and they sound almost identical to my ears. Then again, you go to enough shows without earplugs and that makes the whole thing suspect I suppose. The other versions may not sound similar, and SD points out that some of the pickups do have differences in designs between the brands. And as I stated in another thread, once I realized what I wanted, I didn't like the Invader/Detonator very much. However, looking on the website, SD makes a very limited number of DD/DP designs, and they don't cover anything talked about in this thread. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

I think the smallest size "Easy Out" is a #4, which is probably too big for the screws in question. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

One octave? Do you mean a step or whole note higher? As others have suggested, try raising the action and make sure you've got relief in the neck. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

You're automatically going to be disappointed at a chain pawn shop like Cash America or similar. The best are the mom and pop places. Chain pawn shops are always overpriced. To give you an example: One of my other hobbies is building up rifles off already manufactured actions. I was recently looking for a Remington 700 action, and found one in a local chain pawn shop. It was in decent used condition, albeit it was obvious it had been used in the field as a hunting rifle, yet decently taken care of. There were no optics, and I noticed that there was a crack in the stock where it was probably dropped. They wanted more than the rifle could be purchased new for. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

Guitar Center sells them for $29 USD plus tax every couple of months. That's how I ended up with my Detonators. The only difference is that instead of having "Duncan Designed" silkscreened on them they say "Duncan Performers." They're still made in Korea and carry the same model names as the Duncan Designed pickups. I don't know if they sell more than the Detonator, but certainly something to look into. There are also a few of them on ebay now and again. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

Right, because their guitars just ooze quality! I've played everything from entry level Epiphones to $3000 Taylors (and found it odd that the 614 sounded better than all of its higher priced siblings), and I still love my Tacoma DM-9. Nothing in the sub-1000 price range sounds even close, and many guitars that cost 2-4 times as much don't sound nearly as good. They can be found used/on ebay for the price you're looking to pay. They were recently bough by Fender, so I'm not sure what the future holds for them, but their past guitars were awesome. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

It reminds me of a jester's hat, and makes me think of The Joker from Batman. That is to say, I like it. EDIT: Wow. Idch beat me to it. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

There were three models of Hellecasters, each one designed by one member of the band of the same name and released as limited edition guitars by Fender of Japan in 1997-1998. The first was a John Jorgenson model, which was a dark sparkle strat body with 12 mini single coil pickups in staggered formation one a gold sparkle pickguard with a reveresed 70's style headstock and gold metal hardware, including the volume and tone controls. The 12th fret contained a "Hellecasters" logo inlay. The second was the Jerry Donahue model, which was pretty low key in contrast. It featured a blue strat with black pickguard, three single coils, maple fretboard with "Hellecasters" logo inlayed at the 12th fret. The third was the Will Ray model, which was an ash bodied Telecaster with with goild foil finish, strat neck, custom jazzmaster pickups, and custom bridge. It had the "Hellecasters" logo inlayed at the 12th fret. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

I ended up with a pair of Duncan Designed Detonator pickups (the made overseas model of the SD Invader) a while back, and I can't really tell much difference between them and a regular SD invader. I'm sure there are differences, but I think they're minor enough that they're hard to notice them. Of course, it would help if I actually liked the Invader. I'm considering replacing them with EMG's and being done with it, and putting the Invaders in my newest project. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

Thedoctor's suggestion is excellent. If that doesn't work, and you're nervous about using a Dremel near the piece, get a stripped screw extractor. Sears carries them, and if you don't have access to a Sears, I'm sure any decent hardware store should have one. In a pinch, I've used a hacksaw blade to carefully cut into the screw head, but this works best if the head is raised above the surface. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

If you don't want to screw the finish use brad point drill bit's as center punches and then just drill. The finish will be safe. I know if you go to a music store(one with a good guitar tech) he will take the pickgaurd, make a template of it and send it to the company that makes them. When i got mine back from the store it was an exact fit. ←

There are multiple designs, but they all seem to hinge around the body piece that is made up of the bridge to the headstok bolted to a different outer shell body. I personally like the Wave and the Boomerang, but the Boomering seems a bit off proportionally. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

I guess that begs the question, how is the EMG 7 string pickup, the 707, compared to say the 81 or 85? Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

I haven't used the seven string version, but I'm not a big fan of the six string version for the same reasons that others have mentioned. Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...