i-j-c

I love that finish...but as the post above...how did you do it? The way the light reflects from the flakes gives it a kind of hologram look... Nice work...

This guitar looks awesome...very nice work indeed. I love the grain on the top...and the procedures you used have given me some excellent tips..great build man... If my current 335 comes out half as good as yours, I will be happy.

Update.. Tonight I took off the clamps glueing the top and bottom...nice join. I then used the router to trim back...and then began the sanding. In the pics below...you can see the arch created by the sustain block. Now that I have begun sanding...I really fancy staining a sunburst on this guitar as I quite like the grain now... Any thoughts would be great.. Updated photo's are here: i-j-c album Here's a photo for the post Cheers, ian

Hi Al..nice to see you again mate.. Yeah, the top is rough cut..you can see the inner line...ignore all the other lines drawn...they are not in use. If you look at the mdf template...you will see there is only 1 'f' hole...I flipped the template and drew both the outside and f hole each side of the centre line... DOn't worry, I really did check that everything was symetrical and even. The 335 is a bit odd..because of the short horns...the bottom one always tends to look longer...it's just one of those odd things... Thanks for your nice comments man...

Hi, I took the plunge and decided to make an ES335 type. The progress is here on photobucket: Photoalbum So from the start here's the material used: Sustain block and sides - spruce Top and Back: Mahogany/Poplar/Mahogany laminate (3.5mm) Neck: 3piece glued Mahogany with scarf joint headstock. Hardware: Chrome. Glue used - cascamite (powder glue mixed with water - usually used in boat building so it's damn strong) OK. Well, I spent about 2 weeks drawing it out...measuring, scaling. OK..enough of that time to start cutting wood. The spruce I had was two legths: 6ft x 5.5" x 1.12 (inch and 1 eigth)". I did intend to bend some wood..but I'm going to do that next time. 1. Sustain block. As you can see from some of the pics...I made an mdf template of the sustain block. I then profiled with a router these out of the spruce. Basically two either side - so I ended up cutting two out of each 5" width...if you know what I mean. Becasue I used a router there was no sanding...I then glued 4 pieces together to create a 4.5" (width) sustain block which runs the length of the body and just over 2" thick at the highest point. 2. Sides. OK, time for something different. I ripped the wood width into 3 equal widths of 1.75" I then glued at opposite grain direction 6 pieces...so they were 1.75" thick and 6.5" wide...this gave a total body width of 18". As you can see from the pics...using the body template I made I routed the outer surface of the sides. I then plaed each top and bottom surface...and cut out the large inner bit so I was left with a side...I repeated this for the other side. the thickness for the sides is .25" SO I am now left with a sustain block, two sides. The ends of teh sustain block are 1.75" which is the same as the sides. I then used part of the inner cut out of the sides to make some securing blocks for the ends of the sides. I then carefully drilled the sides to be joined to the sustain block and put a dowel in. I'll just add here that I don't have too many photo's of some of the process - I keep forgetting to snap a pic as I beaver away..sorry...I'll try to remember in future) Back to the guitar. Te sides had been glued up and secured and are very strong. I then used the template I made and routed out the sustain block for the pickup areas. I then on the bottom side of the sustain block routed a small channel to meet the pickup routes. I will be using mini pots and I have tested fitting these through the 'f' holes on the template... The jack socket will not be on the surface...it will be on the side at the bottom. Ok...the top and the bottom. The template I made is actually only one half...I used the same side of my drawing and flipped it to make both sides and the 'f' holes symetrical (sp?). I drew round the template and rough cut the shape. I then carefully cut and sanded the 'f' holes. I must have taken about 4 hours on the 'f' holes on the top till I was absolutely happy. Tonight I glued the top and bottom onto the sides and sustain block. There are two photo's there taken wiht my mobile phone as I just remembered at the last minute to snap a pic...sorry about the quality. And that is the stage it is at now. When all dry, I'll drill through the top where the pick-ups are already routed and finish that off....and then rout the neck pocket. I will be making a glued in neck. I've missed quite a lot out of this as I'm too lazy to type...but I will say each side is absolutely symetrical...I spent ages checking measurements as I was cutting. then laying everything out on a measuring guide. Now that the top is on..it has created a lovely arch on the body top and bottom. I forgot to mention that on the top side edges of the sustain block - these were rounded over.. I will be painting this guitar and am currently deciding on colour. So this week I hope to tidy the edges up and then rout the binding channel also. I will also be binding the 'f' holes too... Will keep you all posted on progress. I also hope to start the neck this week with some luck and a good wind behind me. Cheers guys. Ian

Ok..I've done search here and found this lot and this thread...however it doesn't really answer my question. I did search google but nothing really answered what I wanted....most searches came back as 'flat top guitars' meaning the wood... Many years ago when playing I played some LP's on which the frets were distinctly flat...and remember my first guitar teacher had several LP's from teh 70's and the frets were practically non-existent. One thing I noticed is that they most certainly IMO played nice....and I notice PRS (and after reading a recent interview) is going down the vintage road and doing flat top frets..most noticeably on the new 513. Many years ago, I attempted dressing frets like this with varying degrees of success...or lack of success more like. I would like to try this again without getting the buzz..which I invariably got...and I also noticed intonation problems... So, my question not just to the more experienced but to all who has done this is what is the best method for doing this and how the heck do you stop the buzzing...and also, in your opinion...is this a good thing to attempt...

That's really nice work...I'm impressed with your use of spoke shaves on the carve...it's the one tool I have problems with on the body...I can use them anywhere else, but on a body I find them hard work...that's why I tend to always use scrapers for carve work on a top.... Very nice work...and a nice piece of maple you have there too...

There are two sides to this...but things could and should be handled so much beter, then things like this thread simply do not take place. I run two forums in the UK...both very successful, but we do not get stuff like this....and for very good reason. On the one side, you can get a new member who will post a question that may have been asked a thousand times...who for one reason or another did not find what he was looking...now whether or not this new person searched or did not search is not the point. It is sooooo easy to jump on this person...in the case of this guy, we LATER found out that he couldn't be bothered...but we might never have found that out had this thread not been started...which it so easily could have been avoided. For sure, on this one side it can antogonise a mod. On the other side...and this is the more important one...this forum is open to the public..there are going to be new members who come along...they may not be totally web wise, they may be enthusiastic...they may ask a stupid, lame or ask a question that has been asked a thousand times...it happens..just like someone said a mod will tackle that in whtever manner they see fit...it happens. But to some new people this can be very off putting...especially dealt with in public..and that's the crux of the matter. Back to my own forums. We have a simple method with dealing with this very point. If a new member (and we ALWAYS give them a warm welcome...because this puts them at ease) asks a question that has been asked a thousand times...the post simply gets locked and a personal message gets sent to them to politely remind them of the use of the FAQ board. We set up a FAQ and constantly add to it...and when a member signs up..this info about the faq's is right at the bottom in bold right next to the agree button. Even in the FAQ's there is a sticky post telling new people how to use FAQ's. This is not pandering to the stupid...this is welcoming new members...becasue they may be 16, they may be 64, they may be your son, daughter, aunt, uncle...you don't know at that stage..so we do it like that, then posts like this never happen, the new member has been dealt with politely in private and NOT PUBLIC for everyone else to jump on...and the forum gets along just fine..... ANd the same goes for members who go out of turn at any stage...they are dealt with privately...not in public and the forum gets along with posts dedicated to what the forum is about and not dealing with rubbish like this.... Just my 0.2c worth... I remember my first post here...I posted a factual diagram on wiring...I got lampooned because of it by some...I felt like not bothering again...but as I said then, I'm way too old to bother with petty arguments...but remember that some folk might take exception to public ridicule...in which case, they really cannot be blamed for posting flame in response...it's only natural defence...just like it is natural defence for a mod to act their own way...there is no need for it in public. If a member then shows him./herself to be a total pratt over time..then people simply do not reply to their posts and the trolls go away...and the forum is not full of rubbish...

Thanks...I don't do that for a living...I'm a Software Developer and IT Manager. I've been detailing cars and bikes for as long as I've been building guitars....about 20 odd years....something I've learned over the years....and something which i give classes in (detailing not guitar building)... Some others asked earlier about a tutorial...so tomorrow night I'll do a tutorial, with pics....on a 25 yr old classical that is in a real sorry state...it's the first guitar I ever built...( built with help of course from my late father...) I'll show all the techniques i've mentioned here and as much written detail as possible... If someone can get any benefit from it...great, I hope it helps... I just love all things shiny..! :-)

For AlgeeEater.. Here's what I mean about a mirror/chrome finish on black paint....tes I know it's a car...but it's the same process I was telling you about...I just don't have any black guitars yet to show you...but one is on it's way... These are two of my cars.. In the second pic below...the tiny white dots you see is a pearl finsih just below the clearcoat... Sorry for posting pics like this...but it was to help explain my earlier posts about no swirls and mirror finishing...Mods, please feel free to remove them if they are out of order / context for the form..

I love black..as can be seen from my cars....and it is A: probably the best colour...and B..probably the hardest to get a good finish on.. If you follow what I do, you will get a clean, non-swirly, mirror finish on that black Kramer... The good thing is..if you finish it that way to start with...keeping it looking sweet is not difficult. You only need apply a glaze or Wax once in a while. A good product to use after you have done all of the above...or similar is another product by Megs...which you guys in the US can get dirt cheap...It's called Meg NXT....should only cost you a couple of bucks...but it's a damn fine product...and makes the finish slinky smooth...and it lasts well....but remember...it is a FINISHING product...it will NOT remove swirls...you have to so that the elbow grease way.... Good luck man....

I just re-read my post above...and my typing is atrocious..sorry about that!!

Thanks very much...very kind of ya guys. Well, I'm a detailing nut...as can be seen on my own forum...so I apply the same polishing processes to a clearcoat or a paint without clearcoat as I do to a car. That said, I ALWAYS use a clearcoat on painted surfaces...especially RED...I give lessons and classes on detailing...and polishing. Anyway, here's a quick tutorial...(should I post a full one with pics somewhere else on this forum ??) For any finish - be it old or new...and especially old and especially a gigged guitar the finish gets thus (simply becasue I like to see things shiny) 1. CLAY...clay the surface with a lubricant - I use Megiuars Qick Detailer. If you do not know what clay is...it's basically the consistency of plasticene...a very fine compound. IT IS NOT A POLISHING compound and should never be used as such. Spay and area with a lubricant..and wipe the clay on in straight lines...do not rub. Now look at the clay you have just wiped...you will see it is fulll of crap..little black marks...this isairbourne and other contaminents...that you cannot see but are in the surface...the clay is used to 'pull' them out. FInish the surface. 2. You now need to clense and remove any swirl marks...you can see these usually by moving your guitar...against a light bulb you'll notice swirls in the surface. You need to get rid of these. I use several products depending how bad...but the one I mainly stick with is a product called P21s. It's a combo product that is a cleanser and swirl remover. You apply this by hand - I use a foam applicator pad. using STRAIGHT line motion..not circular. I lie this product as it leaves no residue or powder. This stuff also preps the surface by adding nutrients. 3. Deep Crystal Polish. Exactly what it says...and another Megs product. I apply this with the Porter Cable Random Orbital Buffer (or PC for short)...using faom pads. 4. I usually use Megs Gold class Wax next...again, I appply this by the PC using another foam pad. I then remove this with a sheepskin wool pad. 5. Finally, I then apply a hand glaze - either Einzett or Vanilla Mouse. This is a watery consistency and I apply this by hand using a foam applicator pad. I leave this to dry for about 3 hours. The buff off using a Microfibre towel. Yes, it may seem OTT...but I like to see a mirror finish..and this gets you a mirror finish..if any of you ever see my cars and other things, you'll know what I mean....I make my black car look like chrome...a real mirror like finish. I'll post a real tutorial listing all the products and methods in another post. I'll also mention other surfaces where I apply a hand finish. I'll also collate some pics of all my work (Guitars...and other stuff so you can see)... Cheers. Ian

Oh...and if it's any interest to anyone...I use car polishes and buffing compounds with a Porter Cable Random Orbital Buffer.....if it's good enough for my cars (and I do an awful lot of detailing work)...then it's good enough for me guitars....

Thanks... Took me ages to find...I was nearly in the process of painting some pup covers with Alsa Corp Ghost Chrome Paint....then I found them. I bought the slector nob, the pot nobs and the pup covers from them...they also do them in gold. They are damn good quality to boot...the chrome does not come off... The source is in the UK..here is the website.... http://www.axesrus.com/axecart.htm If you want some bits...either order them from them..in which case you will pay shipping...or, if it's small items you are after...give me a nod and I'll send them to you free from the UK....

I had the url wrong...they should work now....sorry about that..

Ok, here's my finished Strat. It was a project I had in the garage for some time....so I finished it off last month. Spec. Body: Single piece Basswood body (with some mineral stripes) and a knot...!! Stained red with Nitro finish (6 coats) MOP pickgaurd (bought) Chrome and MOP topped nobs (bought) Chrome pickup covers (bought) Chrome selector nob (bought) Standard Copy strat bridge ( no idea who made it) Pups: SD SSL-1 Neck: 25.5" scale Medium Frets Rosewood board Mop Dots Plain maple neck (flat back) headstock truss rod adjustment with drilled ebony dowel. Brass handmade nut (rather) cheap tuners...but they keep the thing in tune very well. Roller string retainers (bought) It plays nice (imho)...anyway, the first of many I hope...ahve several other projects underway right now...soI'll post progress pics... Close up of the pot nobs...( I like these)

20 odd years ago when I made my first Ash strat...I stained directly onto the wood. I used Colron wood dyes which were meant to be used that way. I used a green and a blue and mixed them to get the colour I wanted. I applied the stain direct to the woood with a sponge, wiping off the excess and allowing 24 hours between coats till I got the desired shade. Please do not get me wrong, I am not advising anyone to do it this way...simply saying what I did back then. I finished it of with about 12 coats of laquer. I kept the guitar for about 10 years or so and then sold it. In the time I had it...it still looked as original...with no fading etc. Having since started up again making guitars...I finished my first (since starting up again) the other week. I did the same thing...to basswood...a red wood stain applied direct to the wood and laquer over the top. Having said that, I did experiment after the first ash strat with several others...by filling the grain, sanding back, a couple of coats of laquer, then spraybrushed a stain onto that...then laquer again. I have no idea which is best, but they both worked out well for me and the stain was even in both cases. But when all comes to all, I would certainly go with any recommendation of the more experienced builders here....I'm just a humble hobbyist.... If I can be permitted to offer any advice....that would be to test both methods on scrap / cut off bits first....

My Name is Ian and I'm from Washington UK. I'm 38 and been playing guitar since I was 8. I play violin also. Played in bands when I was in my teens, went to Uni, got a job...still having fun...then got a wife. Now I have a daughter (just turned 6). I started building guitars about 1981...learning my woodworking skills from my late father who was a carpenter..later to become a master craftsman and art renovator. Built many guitars during my time...then took sabbatical for too many years...getting back to both playing and building again now. Just (3 weeks ago) finished my first from scratch guitar since I stopped in the early 90's (I'll post some pics). Currently have several projects on the go...one of which is a 20" scale guitar (electric, jackson type) I'm building for my daughter...yup, truly! I like the electronics side of guitart making and love to experiment. I hope to help out here if I can...

OK..I have just made a donation to here....but no-where on the payment info through paypal did it ask for my forum username... How will that work...is it done by email address or something other ?? <<edit>>...followed the links to find the info...sorry for my post...

This might be a tip for you - or others for that matter. If like me, you would love to do inlay...but are not as practised at it...or it's proving expensive...here's what I do...it's a cheat but works well. I got images of about 30 different types of pau (abalone) from an Hawaiian fishing website. I then used PSP and wrote my text on the image using just outline on another layer. I then copied the layer image to a new image...and printed this (highest photo quality) on acetate paper...then using a craft knife cut it out...used some contact adhesive (a pritt stick)...stuck it on the headstock....then it's ready for several coats of laquer.. Here's one on my test neck before laquering...also, if you make a mistake or do not like the look of it...just peel it off and do another....as I say I have about 30 or so...and can create new ones all the time by using a different portion of the abalone images..

Ok, plans are finished and time to hit the wood store. I will be making two at the same time...twins! One four string bass and 6 string guitar. The bodies and the headstock will be exactly the same for both.. I'll write this post for the benefit of others out there, who perhaps like me do not have many tools and not a great deal of money..well I say money I mean I'm working to budget..well I say budget, what I really mean is that I have a wife...who controls the budget allowed for boys toys!! I'll post a full pictorial of the build as it progresses... Here is how I start out - A4 paper, do some sketches...I then transfer this to the backside of a wallpaper (ideal and cheap) and do full scale drawings (and spend ages on the body design...so it looks 'in balance'). I then do scale drawings of the parts - headstock, body, profile etc..all are drawn, with measurements and are accurate. From this I then transfer it to MDF to make templates.. (I'll just add here that I can make full scale copies of my plans for anyone who wants them...for free - except you pay postage) Next...the specs: Guitar... Body: Two piece ash (european), quilted bookmatched maple top (3/8) - carved and natural binding - rear contoured Neck: (25.5" scale) Laminated maple/walnut/maple/walnut/maple - glued in join, 10 degree headstock, quilted veneer headstock. Ebony fretboard. Fibre optic side position markers..medium fretwire. Hardware: Locking tuners, wilkinson style trem, SD hotrails..bridge and neck, one volume, one tone (push/pull) mini three way. I will also fit my own design tremlock - which is simple but highly effective, fits in the rear cavity and can be turned on/off at any time.. Finish: Dyed (not sure on colour yet), nitro laquer. Neck back will be sanded to remove gloss.. Other: I will be making the pickup surounds myself from quilted maple...these will be recessed into the body and made the same colour as the body dye. I will also be making my own inlay for the headstock and the neck positions - this will be abalone..I will also be making my own Maple/brass knobs for the pots.. Bass:(34" scale) Body: Two poplar wings...glued to through neck. Quilted maple top - uncarved rounded over...rear contoured. Neck: Laminate maple/walnut/maple/walnut/maple - single piece through neck 10 degree head. Quilted veneer on headstock. Ebony fingerboard. Fretless, with abalone fret markers (ie the frets). Fibre Optic side position markers. Hardware: Not decided on pups or tuners yet...or the bridge!! Finish: Dyed, nitro laquer, sanded neck back. Other: I will be making quilted maple pup covers (to completely cover the pups) - same dye as body...these will be ultra thin. I'll also be making the same inlay from abalone for the headstock..and again, knobs for the pots I will make myself.. I will post some pics of the scale drawing tonight or tomorrow if I can.. When I come to do the fibre work...someone asked if I could make a tutorial...I sure will if it will be of any use to members... Cheers for now...Ian

Thanks guys...and nice to see some Brits too. @Genbloke..I'm just about to make another post in the appropriate forum about the first two projects I'm building... First though, I have some schematics to finish for member donbenjy - I'm just way up to my eyes in work right now...gotta find some time...

SOrry...I forgot to mention that when 'using' the block...it was located between two side battons...the fingerboard was screwed down on the excess parts within the jig...you then just moved the tool back and forth...you knew it was dead level as the flat of the block was then on the board...and becasue the block was 6" long...there was enough flatto preven a see-saw motion... it was impossible to cut deep because the very top of the radius was level with the block surface... When I did ebony...I never needed to sand afterwards...because it was tempered steel...the edge was doing the cutting and finishing...it was glass smooth. When I do these projects I will include pics of this process..perhaps even a quik vid of it working... The only wood I needed to give a very fine sand to was rosewood...but it was hardly worthit - the trick is in the stregth of the steel...and to date...I have never needed to sharpen thiose things and they are over 18 yrs old now.. I still need to work on the theory of the compound...but thanks for your tips on that...most usefull - I was going to start at the nut end...so good info from you...thanks.. Cheers, Ian

Ok...some years ago I made a couple of guitars with LED side position markers...bit fiddly and intrusive on the back of the fingerboard.. As you know I like to experiment A year later I made a similar thing with fibre...using just a single led in the body with power supply...the circuit was made when a jack was inserted and this made contact with a micro switch making the circuit and lighting up. I am going to do this again on these projects...but as it is fibre it is only really useful for set and straight thru necks...you could do it with bolt-on but it would mean pulling the fibre out of the body each time you removved the neck. Anyway I did it thus. Got some .5mm fibre optic cable. I marked the side position holes using a .5 mm bit on my dremel...and drilled out. FLipped the board, backside up..and using the dremel routed channel to each point. Drilled a feeder hole underneath the fingerboard to the cavity which was going to house the battery and led...and drilled further routing holes to where the jack was. I glued the fibres in the back of the fingerboard and up through the side holes..snipped the ends off and added a tiny drop of glue in the holes. At this stage you could hardly see that anything was there.. Anyway...when all set and ready...I then glued fingerboard on routing the fibres through the feeder hole underneath the fingerboard..so nothing was visible...when all finished...taped the ends of the fibre up and snipped straight..taped a led to the end and made the circuit.. The buety of this was that it was neat and clean...and being the ends of the fibre...lit up well when power on...also, it only required a single led...which you could just swap out for a different colour...easily as it was just taped to the ends of the fibre in the cavity. I will be doing the same again this time..except I may use several leds...so the fibre ends on the fingerboard will show different colours.. Flash - yeah maybe..but interesting all the same... Cheers, Ian