GEdwardJones

Out of curiosity, does that kit accept standard Fender bridges as in are the holes all in the right location for a bridge upgrade if I, say, want to put a gold bridge on there or a humbucker or somesuch....

Not really an auction, but there really isn't any place else to put it soooooo. Not counting ebay, looking around the web, where do you find cheap guitars/parts to experiment on. I've become enamored with www.rondomusic.com and will probably order one of their bodies because, even if it sucks it's less than $60.

When the choices are use a pickguard or try to convert a front route body to a rear route body, the pickguard seems to make the most sense.

What's your method for finding the screw holes for pickguards or a fixed bridge after putting on a veneer top?

If I hadn't spent exactly that much on getting Mr & Mrs. G. Edward Jones, Sr. Christmas presents I'd have snached that up yesterday. Shoot, I've even figured out how to make the headstock non-heinous.

I'd say go with about half as much 'burst to show a little more wood grain. Otherwise it looks a lot more cohesive than I thought it would (I thought the gold hardware would clash more with the binding, but they look pretty complimentary in that pic) I'm curious as to what all the switches do.

Naaaaaaaaa never happen ROFLMAO! Granted I'd have to lose about 100lbs and get one of those Michael Jackson race transfers, but it could happen...

Well first of all I tend to use extremely heavy strings, either Ernie Ball ligh/heavies guage .10 - .52 or just plain 11s regardless of tuning this requires using 4 or sometimes 5 claw springs. Secondly, I don't do usually use very many "light" trem effects, if I'm using it I'm causing damage. Under these conditions, THE DANG TREM ARM IS ALWAYS LOOSE. Not just the arm, the socket. In some of them (like the lp-7 on my 7620) it's because I need to put a drop of lock-tite in the the socket to keep it from unscrewing. On others, like the plain ol' edge on my 750 it's just because it's worn out. and needs to be replaced. Which is fine, I understand parts wear out and all but, these just seemed to wear out FASTER than have happened on any of my other bridges. In fact out of some 14 guitars here's a complete list of my bridge problems: Split the trem block of an $80 Cort I got from sears - time 2 years Broke a fine tuner on two Kahler "Traditional Series" trems (which is a great trem with a fundamental design problem and anyone who's used it knows what it is) - time 5 years Stripped the trem arm socket on a TRS101 - time 6 years Trem arm socket will NOT stay tight on LPE7 - time 2 days Trem arm socket no longer tight on Edge - time - no more than 6 months with bridges ranging from pristine condition to beat to crap. Maybe I'm just hard on bridges, but 6 months just doesn't seem to be a long time.

Oh sweet mother....I'm turning into Kevan....

NoticedThis on rondomusic.com. According to them it's a one-off built at the Fuji-Gakki plant apparently to specs similar to the RG7420 except with a 22 fret neck and a single coil. Besides the horrible headstock shape for $145 I'm dang tempted...

I prefer the 470 anyway. The Wizard II neck is way more comfy.

As long as the binding isn't too much I'd say go for it. I still think the PGM90 is one of the most gorgeous guitars I've ever seen and it's a maple top with binding so, you know....

Like many Yamahas they came and were put on clearance in like 30 seconds. MARS had them for $199 - $299 a little while back and with everyone selling old MARS inventory at firesale prices you can probably find them cheaper than that. They seemed to be solid guitars similar to hte RG520 and they could be bought in "Drop6" baritone scale length.

No, seriously. I bought a dremel two years ago and I've used it once. I'm quite disappointed with myself.

I've been looking for something to do with my dremel....

And I can just glop this on over the paint? Which is really my question, because I can't strip that area without using scary chemicals which are bad. So whatever it is has to be able to adhere to the finish.

Next up in my stream of "one question a day that I know I can't be the only one to have" we have this little gem..... My main 6 string is an old RG750 which I got for cheap because, apparently, someone dragged it behind their ATV at a motorcross track. Well, that's not true, it just LOOKS like someone did that. When I got it I went thru four rags cleaning it it was so filthy. but, it sounds like heaven so what can you do? Anyway, this guitar is saddled with incredible sounding (but horribly ugly) gray pickups and I want to refinish it (it's currently beat to hell white) but, of course, it's beat. It's beat as in it has two dings on the front of the body on the curve of the upper horn (on the top, maybe an inch back from the strap button). thses dings look like someone took a pen and pushed the casing into the basswood making a nice "w" shape. The paint is still there. I thought about using the soldering iron & wet rag trick to raise the wood, but the paint is still there and I don't think I'd actually get to the wood. I can't so much sand the paint away because of the size and shape of the dents would just leave me with an even bigger hole so.... I figure I need to just putty the nicks. But I'm not sure if wood putty can be applied over paint or not. suggestions? (My suggestion is watch the new Tom Jones, no relation, video "Tom Jones International" it's rockin'!)

Sodowsky guitars has been doing it for years. They call it the "Blower Switch." I'm almost tempted to go to MARS and buy a $200 Yamaha just to take a picture of the wiring

What about painting over an existing finish? Y'know the cool thing about this place? I can ask a bunch of nagging questions that I've always had.

For those of us without a sprayer. Which brands of good ol' spray cans would you recommend?

Want a handy place to put all of your screws while working on a guitar? Two words: Altoids Can Most people throw a way bunches of them. Keep four or five around that way you can seperate out your screws, put the top on them and the screws won't fall out and they make you're guitar minty fresh and your playing curiously strong.

Thankfully.

Check your phone book for arts & craft stores, they might be able to hook you up (I'm not kidding, wood burning is a more popular hobby than I ever thought). Home Depot I know sells veneers but a "veneer" from Home Depot is the same thickness as a "real" top. I'd say go for smaller wood shops. I know that Todd Crawford and one of his buddies found a place with some really good woods here in ATL, you might want to see if they'll ship if you're willing to trust another cat on the quality...

As always, I could be talking out of my butt, but doesn't ESP use a fairly ordinairy font for their logo? Wouldn't it be as easy as delving through a couple of font libraries and then making stickers with a laser/jet printer?

It's actually the design for the ESP George Lynch "Snakes-n-Skulls" guitar, which was the third GL sig model.