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orgmorg

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Everything posted by orgmorg

  1. orgmorg
    Well, a stump is a different sort of animal than a log from above the stump, and terms like flatsawn and quartersawn start to lose their meaning down there, so don't be to worried about that. The grain will be going every which way it can. Best to just tell the guy what sizes you want, and let him figure out how to get them out of it. As for the weight, it's probably not a big deal. My sawmill is pretty typical of portable sawmills, and it is rated for 4500 lbs. I have had logs 26" diameter, 16' long on it, no problemo.
  2. orgmorg
    Jon, do you maybe mean 55" circumference? That would be around 18" diameter, which is more like what I see in the picture. 55" diameter would be a monster! Still a nice chunk, though. Also, if you can get a hold of a pressure washer and blast the dirt and rocks out of all the nooks and crannies, you will likely save on damaged blade charges from the sawyer.
  3. orgmorg
    Ya, that way you can cut around the defects and get the most out of it. Well, I much prefer my Stihl 046, but I do that every now and then. I try to stay out of that end of the business, though.
  4. orgmorg
    Well, in my case, the log I had was a full round log, probably cut a day or two before I got it. It needed to get sawn up as soon as possible, as does any log. Yours was sawn and stacked 8 years ago, so you are way ahead of the game. Fryovanni is absolutely right. Leave it alone until you have a real solid idea what you want out of it. Then, and only then, cut the pieces you need out of it. Cut them a little oversize, as it will still be likely to bow a little, even if it is thoroughly dry. Then let it sit a few weeks more before you true it up. Believe me, I have been through this, getting all amped up about a big chunk of wood, and tearing right into it, only to end up with a bunch of little pieces of wood that would no longer work for the intended project.
  5. orgmorg
    Where do you live? Best I could come up with, it means " mountain chub " in serbian.
  6. orgmorg
    Most definitely NOT maple of any variety. The open grain, as woodenspoke pointed out is the dead giveaway.
  7. orgmorg
    You are right, it is mostly on the blade that the buildup occurs. I do clean it off, but with some pine, it has to be done after every cut. This gets to be a real pain. If I cut more pine on the bandsaw than I currently do, I would probably get another saw and set it up with solid guide blocks. The blocks will scrape the excess pitch off the blade, where the rollers just compress it. Also, for anyone else using the Carter blade guides, the bearings are the same 608 size used in skateboards, and can be got real cheap in bulk. Here's one place that has them in many styles, as well as other bearings, like for 3/4" top bearing router bits with 1/2" shanks: http://www.vxb.com/
  8. orgmorg
    One other thing bearing guides don't handle well is woods like pine, with lots of pitch. The pitch builds up on the bearings, and they start making a horrible racket. Given the popularity of pine in guitar building, this won't likely be an issue for you, but I thought I would mention it anyway.
  9. orgmorg
    Ya, but shearing those boulders is a real pain.
  10. orgmorg
    I don't know how magic the number is, but it is what ended up working for me, so I stick with it. Very good points regarding finishing both sides of a panel. Another important consideration is alternating the endgrain ring patterns in a glued up panel, and using narrow boards to glue up. What I mean by this is: if you look at the end of a flatsawn board, you will see the rings pointing up or down. As the wood dries, it will cup opposite of the way the rings are. By using narrower boards, and alternating the ring orientation, it averages out, and you don't have the whole panel cupping. There is probably better terminology for this, but it currently escapes me.
  11. orgmorg
    I have a moisture meter, too, and for the past year or so, I have been trying to keep track of what my wood does from day to day. I started doing this because I was having all sorts of problems with wood moving around after I built something with it. I found that wood I brought into my shop at 8% MC ended up at 16%-18% after only a few weeks. This is in the middle of Tennessee, where it gets pretty darn humid. Early morning humidity can be 80%-100% in the summer, dropping to 50% in late afternoon. I have a room in my shop that I can keep at 45%, and that is where I keep any wood that I want to remain below 10% MC. This is from real life experience over several years, paid for in many ruined projects.
  12. orgmorg
    Richard Thompson Mike Bloomfield Joni Mitchell
  13. orgmorg
    It is definitely not any variety of ash. All ash trees have a compound leaf- the leaf is made up of several leaflets branching off of a central stem. Check out the european ash link that fryovanni posted for a picture.
  14. orgmorg
    Cherry bark gets pretty thick and husky, but based on the leaves, I'm pretty sure that's not what we have here. Could be some kind of plum, though. Bark can be decieving, anyway. It can vary hugely, depending on growing conditions, and local variations. Twigs and buds, like you mention, are a much more reliable indicator. Have you shown your daughter how you can roll pine cones in peanut butter, sprinkle birdseed on them and hang them up for the birds? My little girl really digs that.
  15. orgmorg
    Here's another pic of black cherry bark: http://www.pec.on.ca/wildflowers/flowers.php?id=545
  16. orgmorg
    Actually, the bark looks exactly like cherry bark, but the leaves are wrong. Cherry leaves are pointier, and less serrated. European ( black ) alder is different than american ( red ) alder. Red alder bark is more greyish/whitish, smooth with large fissures. European is much darker, and different texture. But the leaves look just like alder leaves. If it is not an alder, it is something else in that family, probably a type of birch. River birch ( an american species ) has bark just like that.
  17. orgmorg
    European Alder.
  18. orgmorg
    Alder and honduras mahogany? Maybe I'll try again after another cup of coffee
  19. orgmorg
    What did you just call me? That will be a bit more difficult. Most manufactured truss rods are threaded 10-32, as you probably have already discovered.
  20. orgmorg
    If by hex head, you mean that the outside of the nut is hexagonal ( not round with a hex hole for an allen key ) and about 3/4" long, then you are looking for what is called a coupling nut: http://www.boltdepot.com/product.aspx?cc=7...cs=181&cm=6
  21. orgmorg
    I have put the blade on backwards on my sawmill before. I was amazed it cut at all, but it did. Got about 8" into the log and started diving downward. When I get the blades back from the sharpening guy, they are inside out because the teeth have to be set (bent to the side) one side at a time- set every other tooth, flip it, and set the rest. Well, I had taken a blade off, and put it with some freshly sharpened ones by mistake. Later on, when I went to put a blade on, I grabbed that one, and flipped it inside out, like I usually do with a sharpened one. If you think this is scary with a shop bandsaw, try it with one of these
  22. orgmorg
    Swamp ash is not it's own species. It is most certainly not black ash ( fraxinus nigra ) , which is a northern species. If you look in a tree identification book, you will find that most species of ash also carry the name "swamp ash". This has nothing at all to do with the swamp ash that guitars are made of. Quite simply, it comes from the swollen bases of ash trees (probably red, white, and maybe even green ash ) that grow in the coastal swamps of the deep south. Black ash does not grow anywhere near here, but since it tends to grow in swampy areas in northern woods, it gets called swamp ash, just like some species of oak get called swamp oak, even though they have other common names as well. It is a bit confusing, but the rock hard ash of a baseball bat can be the same species as the soft ash of a telecaster. It all has to do with growing conditions.
  23. orgmorg
    Oops, Greg and Primal are right on that. Not quite sure what I was thinking. I guess I was thinking back to when I set the bridge up on my fretless, and thought I remembered some trick I found for it. But no, as I recall, I did just compare the open string with the string stopped at the fret line. And yes, the open string and the middle harmonic are going to be the same... duh Sorry, brain fart. Anyway, before I adjusted the bridge, I did notice it really sounded off, and had a hard time making the same intervals sound right at different positions on the neck, and now it feels/sounds better. But yes, this is probably largely due to me relying too much on the lines.
  24. orgmorg
    Fretless basses may not need perfect bridge intonation, but you should get it close as possible. It does help, believe it or not. Especially when grabbing double stops up and down the neck. Really, all you have to do with a movable wood bridge like you describe on a fretless, is start with it at 32" from the nut (your scale length), and move it back until the harmonic at the 12th "fret" and the open note are the same. You can use a tuner to do this. You may have to compromise a bit on a couple of the strings, since the bridge is not adjustable for each string, but you can play with it until you get a good balance.
  25. orgmorg
    Ya, it's pretty gimmicky, but that seems to be Behringer's schtick, I guess. I have the ultragain unit, and it seems to work pretty well. I got it mainly to boost a Rode NT series condensor mic to a level that our Tascam 788 could use. It performs that function well, but the "warmth" control seems to be absolutely useless.
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