Gabe Nickelson

Nice! However, I think the pickguard covers too much of the beauty... Try a clear pickguard or none at all. Gabe

Hey everyone... My project which I have been working on since 1999 is coming to a close by Christmas. The other project guitars are on hold until I get this done. I've been putting it off for WAY too long and this is my personal guitar... Here's a picture the guitar: OK, well the neck is done, but that body is no longer with me so that's what I'm working on. Now I need some advice... this new body is rear routed so a pickguard will not be necessary. In the above picture I feel the pickguard really helped in accenting the guitar body. So without a pickguard I can choose to just go with a bound body in black, or my other choice would be a maple veneer top that has a very dark gray burst on it. How do you feel about adding body binding on such a thing? Too much? It might go well with the bound headstock. Oh, there will be more stuff added to the new guitar body too. There will be 3 pots and 2 mini toggles for the sustainiac. Plus, I will do away with the 5-way switch and add a 3-way Les Paul style switch just below the neck pickup. The middle pickup will not be there. I'm photoshopping something now to get a good idea what this will look like. And oh, Brian--- how do you think a gold bobbin topper would work over a sustainiac pickup driver? Any problems? Gold and Black = (yummy) Thanks! Gabe

As for Girls, Guns, and Guitars (the plating website), it's a requirement that the guitar must be factory level painted BEFORE they will plate it. One day I might consider their services. Gabe

Wow! Never seen a tele like that before! Lookin good Brian! Gabe

Speaking of veneer, I contacted a HUGE Houston wood dealer and they only carry standard maple veneer and not figured. They said they could order it for me and that could take a couple weeks. So does anyone know where to get this stuff besides ordering online? Maybe a retail chain? I'd really like to pick and choose my material in person. Gabe

Wow! Are those Dimarzio pickups? Gabe

Hey everyone, I got back from my trip and have finished touching up the vine template and made MANY MANY photocopies. And yes, it's for a 25.5" scale neck. I'll be going through my shell to pick out the right pieces that look good throughout the fingerboard. Again, the vine stem is much thicker than normal due to the material and color of wood I'm using for the fingerboard. The leaves and such seem to be 100% accurate. I do not have a scanner. Therefore I cannot scan this in. I'll see if I can borrow one from someone. Or maybe I can send a photocopy of the vine and someone out there can scan it in for me. Oh, my e-mail at Jemfest.com is down until further notice... if you need to contact me, do so at jemfest@hotmail.com. Thanks, Gabe

Excellent choice of wood... my fav... Good luck! Gabe

I'm creating a vine inlay template in case anyone wants one to print out. The vine stem is a bit wider because I'm doing a full abalone vine on rosewood and want it to stand out a little more. However, the leaves are pretty much to spec. I finished the drawing last night but I'll be out of town until next Monday so I probably won't have anything until then... Gabe

Yep, me too. It's a MUST for anyone doing inlay work. Gabe

Hey guys, I actually found some in stock a Frys. Just happened to go there with a friend of mine who was buying computer parts. I stocked up! Gabe

Thanks for the info. I have a Dremel as well with the router attachement. I have the Carver for fine detail work, not specific to doing inlays, but if it's there I need it. I don't have a 1/32 router bit! Mines a bit larger I think. I doubt you can buy such a router bit a Home Depot! Gabe

Holy poo poo! That inlay is awesome! Good work. I hope mine turns out that way! I got one of the those carver high-speed tools so I think I can get some good details. Thanks for the link and keep us posted on your progress! Gabe

Anyone tried using silver inlays? I know this was done with the Tony Iommi signature SG with the cross inlays. So I guess my question would be where do you find an alloy that would be ideal for cutting and has the proper thickness, yet won't tarnish? Gabe

Well, I just bought one ounce of Paua Abalone for $41. Again, maybe someday I can find out who the actual supplier of this stuff is and get it way cheaper... Gabe

Hey, this is a simple novice question I'm sure. At what point during the finishing process should I start an inlay on the guitar body/headstock itself? I'm guessing after the last coat of paint is put on and just before the clearcoat. Is that true? Is that the same for body/headstock binding as well? Has anyone bound a Ibanez Jem-style body with abalone ala Jem 10? Thanks, Gabe

I ordered a few sheets of this. I'd like to make a custom headstock logo out of this material. It's only .005 inches thick and looks like Abalone at a fraction of the price. So, has anyone ever used this? What is your opinion with this material? If I paint my headstock and apply this logo before applying the clearcoat, do you think you'd be able to notice the .005 clearance? Save me a hell of a lot of routing. I'm still going with true abalone with the fingerboard. Gabe

Anyone know where to get the cheapest Abalone and MOP inlay material? I'd like to cut out the middleman and buy direct if anyone knows where. Plus, are there any retail stores that carry inlay materials? Thanks, Gabe