SJE-Guitars

Fair enough! I don't think mines stop working since I got it . . . furniture as well as guitars . . . I have to say though jointers are a royal pain in the butt to get the blades absolutely level normal takes me about 4 or 5 attempts (and numerous expletives!)

Update time . . Usual story the lump of Afzelia was sliced into 2 stuck, stuck together, body shape rough sawn on bandsaw then the template routed around and it ends up looking like this . . The observational of you might notice the previously threaten strips haven't appeared . . I played with various varieties but decided this timber just didn't need anything adding. Neck Truss rod slot cut a full 22" in length now waiting for the rod to be finished this week. The excess of the back of the neck was sliced to reveal so pretty amazing grain! (note neck heel leveled): The headstock roughed out - the small splash of sapwood I think makes a nice hightlight: The whole thing ready for drilling, routing and shaping etc etc More soon . . .

Well hot on the heels of the 8 string monster . . I am building this in parallel with the 8 string. I decided I like the cut away of the singlecut away design so much that I'd make a symmetrical double cut away. Skipping all the CAD stuff here the the so far results . . . First up the body with neck, the 2 outer wings are bookmatched Pyinkado (aka Burmese Ironwood), 2 stripes are my favourite Afzelia Xylocarpa and the central strip is the local Laos rosewood (Khampii rosewood). These stripes are matching with the neck which has a Khampii fingerboard and Afzelia body. The body on it own - in need of a sanding around the outline and already rounded over ready to be shaped. The whole thing at the moment - waiting on the custom made truss rod before I shape up the neck this week. My new 6 string 3+3 headstock . . . I like it greatly! More to come! ps. Forgot to mention it's a standard 25.5" scale 6 stringer . . .

Once a year!?!?! My blades in my jointer get sharpened nearly every week! : But then again it only costs me the equivalent of $3. Also I frequently work with ironwoods which blunt the blades double quick. . .

Sure if you can firstly find a full size jointer for that kind of money and secondly have space for it then yes that is obviously the preferable choice over a benchtop. However for the money 'some' benchtop jointer are ok - like I said first as long as you get your blades professional sharpened, unless you have a sharpening system that is, as said if you're look at benchtop look at one with cast tables far stronger and truer than any alloy ones.

Get yourself a benchtop 6" jointer will do the job that said as long as you get the blades sharpened at a professional shop since most supplied blades are as good as blunt! They're are just as cheap as a decent handheld. I have a Makita hand held planer and with the blades professional sharpened (out of the packet even genuine Makita are only mediocre) you get a good finish - however regardless of what you do you won't get a perfectly straight edge like a jointer. You will get pretty near which if you have a true edge sanding block stick some sandpaper on and you can use to true up the edge..

Some nice looking grain - 1/42"(!) how on earth do they cut it this thin? That's less than half a mm!

Well . . .. rarity is one of the problems (I live in virtually the only country in the world it is naturally sourced - check where all the timber merchants list as the source of the timber) but also is it's liability for cracking on the black grain. My timber merchant has blocks big enough to do a solid body blank . . . as much as I love the stuff this would be an overkill! Sure a B&W top would be great but not a solid body. Also one thing to note Mun Ebony and Black & White Ebony are different trees - but the timber is easily confused. Mun ebony often has a green tinge to the 'white' wood and also the grain pattern isn't as defined. Combined with the rarity the other important point is cost - it's costly here let alone the shipping and tax added by oversea merchants.

I think he quoted the wrong post...this one I think this is what he meant...at least that is the only thing I can think of. WOO! Glad somene knew what i was talking about! How i quoted the wrong one, I dont know. Yes, i meant to quote the Siam Rosewood one. Is it cocobolo? No Cocobolo is Dalbergia Retusa where as Siam Rosewood is Dalbergia Cochinchinensis. As for B&W Ebony what'd'ya think about my 8 string project soon to be fretboard . . . and the body . . . Figured Afzelia Xylocarpa (rare stuff)

I know you say just your opinion but it's far from reality. As much as the tool label snobs will be surprised but Chinese power tools can be excellent - like all things depending on the manufacturer. The fact is Makita have a Chinese factory which produce Chinese Makita tools for the local market. 1 Billion people and a huge producer of timber products they have some seriously good tools. They are imported directly here (as Laos borders China) and I know from 1st hand experience that as much of a bad reputation chinese products have got in general, the reality is they are equal to most other countries in quality. The fact is most of the cheap crappy stuff is from Taiwan opposed to mainland China. I've had the same Chinese made router for the past 2 years or so and it's taken some serious hammer routing many seriously hard timbers and it's still going strong. Buying 2nd hand is probably the worst idea when it comes to power tools!

Maybe in Thailand . . . Mai Tha Kha Laai here Although Figured Afzelia not the Burl. The same merchant specialises in Afzelia and Amboyna Burls and I can tell you that his stock is something to behold! One piece of timber he had in stock had the most incredible figuring I have ever seen on a piece of wood - it took him 2 years to locate the tree - I cannot remember the name it though! Some of the prices for these timbers sold by the Kg is eye watering - over $100 per Kg! Anyway I've decided I am going to go to town on the body with a laminated racing strips probably made up of Burmese Rosewood, Khampii Rosewood (a beautiful purple coloured rosewood) and Padouk - I'll see what I've got in the workshop tomorrow to see what I can rustle up! This guitar is gonna be a conservationist nightmare!

Nice to see more original shapes . . looking good! The shape reminds me somewhat of one of mine . .

Cheers! I personally just love B&W Ebony you see new things in the grain all the time . . . I've just noticed a shape that looks very much like an alien in the centre of large black bit in the middle (might be it's just me!)! On the headstock I realised the other day actually that the holes are higher than they should be - so on the actual headstock they'll be lower and the so headstock will be slightly narrower (around 5 maybe 10mm have yet to redo the design) so even less bulky.

Wood Porn time! The Black & White Ebony Fretboard blank . . . And some real rare stuff . . Figured Afzelia Xylocarpa - this is one of the rarest figured timbers you can get - A close up on that figure - the line is where it's be cut on a table saw not a joint - it's just rough saw - So now I have the decision either make a solid figured Afzelia body or just use it as a top.

Ok well the bit is winging it's way as we speak over to Erikbojerik - about 1 week is normal for postage to the US. From that I can that the postage for any order to the US will be $7.50. So for US orders the total will be $56.50 for a single bit inclusive. I would imagine to the UK & Oz it will be much the same but will double check that when we orders are placed. Didn't get chance to use it in anger on my fretboard but any way I'll be ordering myself a couple of bits tomorrow to do what I need. So when it arrives Erik please give the bit a review! Cheers all.

ahhh I misread the first post - I thought it said 28 15/16" scale . .. my bad! Yep as above Stu Mac do and off the shelf 24" 2 way .. .

I am currently waiting for my 22" dual action truss rod complete with Stainless Spoke Wheel to come from the shop. I will have one available for sale if anyone is interested. Obviously if you don't want a spoke wheel then it ain't for you! I can get them made to whatever length you desire - with whatever adjustment head you want. Once I have them I'll post pictures.

Ok - didn't get chance to post it today - but will in the morning after that is I've used it to radius a fretboard! Well it'd hardly be fair to send it away before I got a chance put through its paces for real! A lovely Burmese Rosewood fretboard is in the need of a radius . . . pictures will be provided of course.

Well the design is perfect feasible but I just thought I might be going against the flow rather too much in producing a 12"! Although my 6 string version will be 12" . . . although I guess I could offer 16" in that also . . . which would be something no one else produces or even 10"! I've just got to provide the stud and locking cap design to the machine shop and hopefully it'll be here next week. I ain't forgot about the fingerboards . . . just lots going on at the moment - I also want to get my jointer blades sharpened again before I do them as B&W Ebony is tough as old boots and anything less than razor sharp doesn't work!

Well I can tell you that Seymour Duncan are soon releasing 8 string versions of the Blackout Pickups as used by Dino Cazares (which will be priced around the sames as the EMG808s) I will soon have my initial sample of a my own designed 8 string Tune-o-matic bridge which will be totally stainless steel. I do not have any plans for a tail piece - however I will also be offering matching stainless steel string ferrules! The T-o-M will have a 16" radius and will be also be a locking bridge (i.e. it will have cap thumb screws to lock it down to the studs).

I am pretty amazed that in 5 pages James Hetfield has only been mentioned once and Dimebag twice! I ain't a soloing person so for me Papa Het is without doubt my guitar hero - his rhythm work is pretty much the cornerstone of metal these days. Downstrokes away! Dimebags rhythm work was also something else (equally his soloing) - do a search on YouTube for a guitar clinic he did a glimpse of a truly talented guitarist in his prime. I saw Pantera live at there peak supporting Megadeth on touring Vulgar Display of Power and I have to give Megadeth kudos for being able follow them on stage - an absolutely awesome live show. These 2 had more influence on my playing than anyone else with an honourable mentions to Dave Mustaine, Kerry King, Dave Murray and Adrian Smith.

Well .......................... there might be one around very soon!

Woohooo I have a nice new shiney WiMax link so I am fully back online! erikbojerik - will be in the post either tomorrow or most likely Monday Pricing as said before will be $49 + P&P The standard radii would be 10, 12, 14, 16 & 20. Other sizes can be ordered but I want to try to place orders together since they can make them quicker making in batches as the machine will be setup for the one size. Any order for different radius from batches will take longer to make. But anyway I'll start taking orders once erikbojerik has passed his expert opinion!

I've been going over things as well as blunting my fingers in CAD also not having a fully working internet connection can do wonders for productivity! I thought it was about to that I did my take on the single cut body and this is what I've come up with - complete with new 3+3/4+4 headstock The headstock was one that I draw up when I first came up with my headstocks but decided against - however looking back and putting them into scale on CAD made it look a lot nicer than my freehand sketch. Originally the curved edges were intended to be slight more of a sharper radius but checking in CAD the top strings would of snagged on the centre pegs. Also it not that visible on those smaller drawings but the headstock is asymmetric, the right hand point is higher than the left so the curve is sharper. Otherwise nothing more to report in terms of actual DOING side - HOWEVER the good news is the ToM is back on - I have found a precision milling shop over the border in Thailand who can do the design. Thus far the design is now done, the SS parts are in production and the SS 8 String ToM will be on order early next week. I need to go down to the timber merchants and get some more B&W Ebony for the fretboard. But also a spawn of this design is the 6 string version - which might just have a B&W Ebony top on a Afzelia body. Gonna be busy busy shortly! I am gonna make a few adjustments to my 2 cut design also and CAD it while I am waiting on the parts - well I've do them already in AliasStudio but it need importing to CAD an scaling as I just trace it on off and image - so more soon. Thoughts on the designs - although not decide on the carving 100% yet .. ..

Well there is more than one way to skin a cat or upload files using ftp in other words! Old school dos ftp client with the proper flow and error control unlike the crappy integrated Vista FTP and we are done! So here we are . . . The bit - okay I know it's not painted or finished the same as before but like I said I collected it as soon as it had been sharpened - otherwise it much the same with a nice thick chunk of carbide for the blades As said before I did the oppose side of the previous 6" radiused block - I hadn't use my router since the 6" run so the height was exactly the same .. . .. however I promptly forgot and lower the bit slightly to the line (the line which of course is off centre!). But this actually got a better result because the bit was slight lower it allowed it to cut the radius across the full half opposed to leaving the ridge (stupid luck really!). So this was the outcome with a couple of gentle passes: Which compared to a Stumac 12" radiusing block - sorry don't have one of the metal radius checkers (although I was thinking I better I could get some made) - it looks like this: Yes that really is unsanded as the bit cut. Here is what the surface results looked like (yes still unsanded!): Apologies for the slightly off focus pics in the first 2 . . I don't take my SLR to my workshop just the compact. All in all personally speaking I am very impressed, obviously as demonstrated by me accidently moving the bit slight lower there is some leeway in setting up the bit height/depth for the cut you want. Oh also forgot to mention the actual length of the radiused cutting bit before it levels at the top is 55mm - so you can radius blanks 110mm wide - which should be sufficient for even the biggest fret boards.