RickBlacker

I don't have a solder sucker, is there any tricks up anyone's sleeve to removing the old solder when i start over?

Yes, and thank you very much for your help! Greatly appreciated. Rick

Agreed, those are not pretty solder joints. Pesky wires just didn't want to sit still. It wasn't all that bad at first. It was clean. But then I tried to go back and re-do something and it became the mess that it is. Need to get a solder sucker. The wire I'm using is the CAT-5 network cable that I have a ton of. I have to take my guitar apart anyway, have to fix a few things. I'll clean everything up.

Well, generally a copper material, sometimes aluminium (not kitchen foil) and available form guitar supply places...HOWEVER I have done plenty of guitars and avoided shielding with very good results...but first, why are you getting noise... The effect of the unshielded cables carrying a hot signal (ie, to the jack socket) and particularly because you have used overly long unbraided and loose wiring...has resulted in you creating an antenna! The noise is primarily radio frequency noise. HB pickups will cancel a lot of this...but it wont do anything for the wiring you add afterward...which is where your noise is coming from. Notice that your quality pickup has leads encased in a black sheath with a bare wire, this is shielded cable...the hot signal wires are completely surrounded by a grounded "shield" which is what cavity shielding is intending to do. This is of course what is in a guitar lead for the same reason. So...to cut noise without shielding all the cavities and such, and especially with this guitar...simply replace the pot to output jack with a length of shielded cable...might need an electronics store like radio shack...or an old guitar lead perhaps... pete Hi Pete, thank you very much... Just want to confirm I fully understand this. Braided wire is better that solid core. Do you know why that is? Clean off an area on the pot where a solder joint is desired, use something like sand paper. Use a hot soldering iron to put a puddle of solder down Then using a cold soldering iron to put a (pre soldered) wire lead to the existing puddle. Don't need shielding if I use a shielded wire lead from pot to jack Also wire leads are too long, acting as an antina..

Here are some pics of the wiring.

Is the shielding a special material that you buy from a guitar supply store or are there common materials you can buy from a local hardware store?

http://www.seymourduncan.com/pdfs/support/...s/1hum_1vol.pdf This is the diagram and exactly how my guitar is setup and I've wired it up the same. Single Seymour Duncan JB, single pot. NO tone control. I've double checked and double checked, everything seems to be wired up correctly, yet I'm getting a lot of buzz until i touch my strings. Then buzzing stops. Yes, I have put a ground to the claw. I did have the wires on the jack backwards, I've fixed that. Still have buzz. I decided to look at the wiring on my Jackson. Recently I replaced the stock pups on it with some Dimarzio pups. However, that is wired up with 2 humbuckers, 2 volume pots, no tone control. The only clear difference that I can see is that on the Jackson dispite the obvious extra wiring and switch, is that coming from each hole where the pup wires come out is a single black wire going directly to ground. I can't recall what this wire is, but, I'm guessing that it's soldered to the pup mounting bracket? The bridge on my problem guitar is an original Ibanez Edge trem. Is it possible that the ground wire on the claw is not grounding the trem correctly? Do I need to also ground the bridge???? Any help will be greatly appreciated!

Agreed, nice router. I have it and love it. By the way it came with both fixed and plunge bases.

Sorry, not trying to hijack thread there, but wanted to reply to this. That's a great question. It's my first time to use it. I filled in the pup cavity about a week ago, so far so good. But perhaps that's not enough time to judge. I've still not painted the body so the plastic wood is still exposed to the elements.

Ah, I missunderstood then. Do you have any of the same stock left? Can you build a new small section? Rout out, saw off, the bad section, then glue on a new section?

This may not be what others would do, but I'd be temped to get some plastic wood and re-shape it. I just filled in a pup cavity with a chunk of wood and topped it off with some plastic wood. Gets very hard and sands very nice.

I'm glad to hear you've had good luck with them. Maybe they have gotten better, the tools I've seen in the past were not what I'd want to spend money on though. Much rather go find a nice used porter cable than a new HF. But, maybe I should go take a second look and see what they have these days.

I've still not done anything more with this. Are there any thoughts on this? Trim the neck pocket more or the neck?

This is my opinion, others may disagree. Regarding Harbor Freight. if it plugs in and spins, don't buy it. China has different standards. Do you really want something that was made in china spinning that fast near your body? Be selective when you buy from there. Again... Just my opinion. If you're looking to cut costs on a router, hit the pawn shops. I'm willing to bet you can find a very good router there.

So, as you suspected, you're probably going to have to adjust something a bit to make that neck fit and intonate. This is actually not a Warmoth, well, not made by them anyway. It could be an exact copy, really not sure about that. I bought it from a guy who had it made for him, he just decided he didn't want it any longer. So, the guy i bought this from, I was chatting with him this morning, he told me that not all necks are the same, as depicted in this photo http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e64/heem...nt=IMG_0888.jpg Got me thinking, rather than modify the body, I can simply cut into the maple neck (leaving the fretboard in tact). I squared up the neck cavity, it reduced the length from nut to bridge post by 1/4". However, it's still 5/16" too long. So, I was thinking about cutting 5/16" off the maple (again, leaving the fretboard in place).

http://www.ibanezrules.com/catalogs/index.htm http://cid-f1c667b529532c45.skydrive.live...._BridgeDim1.jpg After looking at the dimensions for the ibanez trem, it looks like the exiting routing is all good around the bridge area, however, it seems like the guy who built the body, did not bring the pocket in far enough to the bridge routing. So, is it safe to say that I simply need to adjust the pocket so that the neck slides in closer to bring it into the exact dimensions from nut to center of the bridge post? I realize that seems like an obvious question, but I just want to make 100% sure before I do this.

Rock on that is awesome!

Here is my neck problem http://cid-f1c667b529532c45.skydrive.live....NeckPocket1.jpg Here the neck is inserted into the neck pocket as shown in the above image, looks to me like there is something off here? As if the neck is not close enough to the bridge route. http://cid-f1c667b529532c45.skydrive.live...._BridgeDim1.jpg http://cid-f1c667b529532c45.skydrive.live...._BridgeDim2.jpg Here are two images of my Jackson DINKY for comparison. http://cid-f1c667b529532c45.skydrive.live....JacksonDim2.jpg http://cid-f1c667b529532c45.skydrive.live....JacksonDim3.jpg

Couple of issues For my first guitar, I cheated if you will. I bought a pre-made body, and a neck off ebay and have acquired all I need. It's a 25.5 scale guitar Problem 1 I have to do a little modification to the neck pocket on the body. The neck pocket on the body is square, the edge on the neck had a curve to it. I'm going to assume the best method to resolve this is to simply modify the body, not the neck yes? Problem 2 The bridge posts I purchased where smaller than the size of the holes that were drilled into the guitar. So, I happen to have some oak dowel, i cut it to length, and glued them in so that I could re-drill the holes to the proper size. Not really a problem but it's leading up to it. In fact, turned out perfect. Problem 3 I have an Original Ibanez Edge trem, I need to figure out where to put the trem post holes in relation to the scale of the guitar. Having said that. I really need to wait until I get problem 1 resolved. Solving issue one is going to obviously alter the length of the guitar about 1/4". Does anyone know, how to determine the center line of the saddles on an original Ibanez Edge trem? Or, would anyone happen to know the exact dimension away the bridge posts should be from the nut for the Ibanez Edge? Thanks a million all!!!!!!

Well... it was more along the lines of resale value. I agree that it's not a Peavey guitar and shouldn't be represented as such which is why I wanted to get rid of the logo.

I just purchased a Peavey Tracer guitar neck off ebay the other day. I'm going to be putting it on a custom built guitar body. Personally, i see no benefit to keeping the Peavey logo on the headstock and plan on sanding it off and repainting (or maybe even leave it raw wood if possible). Is there any good reason for not sanding the headstock and repainting?

Yes it does help. Turned out great!

I know it helps me... By chance do you have any updated pics? VERY interested to see how it turned out.

Try a search plenty of stuff Link to post I did, but I wasn't searching for the correct terms apparently... Anyway.... Thanks!!!! That is exactly what I was looking for.

Anybody?