ScottR

Scott - its only a screw hole - maybe a toothpick / bamboo skewer ?? lol or , listen to Scott and just use a reeaaallly small dowel.

What?

You want a tight fit don't you? You just taper the tip and pound it in with a mallet.

Just kidding! I've used toothpicks and match sticks, but they are a bit soft. I've found hardwood dowels down to 1/8th in. at Lowes. Glue it in, drill a new pilot hole, and it's good to go.

SR

The project base I'm working on has a stripped screw hole on the pickplate mounting hole right by the output jack. The previous victi.. owner used a larger screw which doesn't seem to want to grip the wood either.

Can I put a bit of wood filler or something similar in the whole and put the screw into it? I would hate to worse the problem with a larger yet screw. The lack of the screw there puts some stress on the pick plate when you pull the plug. I'm sure it will eventually weaken.

Glue a dowel into the hole and screw into that.

SR

That was insanely well done Erik.

SR

Doesn't sound like you're a fan of the stuff. Maybe you could wet sand with mineral oil as a lubricant. Of course, you'd then need a way to clean it off before spraying again. Surely there's a way to do that.....

SR

Man I love this thing!

SR

Looks good Henry. Very nice joins on your wood. You have to look very closely to be able to tell it's not made from one piece of maple. That one pickup looks kind of lonely all by itself though.

SR

Also gotta throw David Gilmour's tone on a lot of songs, just love it.

Well, yeah........David's pretty good. Understatement of the year! It's hard to hear a Gilmour riff and not know who it is.

When I think back to the music I grew up with, pretty much a steady diet of Pink Floyd and Led Zeppelin, I gotta throw one more out there.

Jimmy Page.

I know he seems to be everbody's favorite to put down....too sloppy they say, but he was definitely a forerunner in the shaping of sound. And it's hard to deny that just hearing the beginning of one his riffs wil identify who playing it. And after 40 years it still sounds great.

SR

I like it a lot, very classy for you.

Left handed compliment aside, nicely done Mike.

SR

Man, that really is wicked!

SR

You are going to do black and sand back anyway right? Dyeing the inside of the routes at that time seems like the natural way to go. Good call .

SR

Do you guys think I should leave it as-is and just put the poly on, or should I redo the rust to get it to look like it did?

I really want some honest opinions, as I just can't decide. My wife hates that yellow border, but it's growing on me. I jut don't know at he moment.

leave as is.

SR

That is amazing cool! I actually like the colored edge...it kinda makes it look active somehow. I can imagine looking at the edge under a microscope and seeing tiny rust monsters eating away at the wood grain. I really admire the creativity of your projects and the artistic nature of your work. It succeeds on multiple levels.

Put me on the list of those wanting know how this is done as well.

SR

Intelioat and Sihl make a coated canvas for UV inkjet printers that print beautifully. Check your local digital printing companies and you should be able to find one that can do that for you.

SR

Acrylic gets CNC'd all the time...by sign companies. Like most materials it's just a matter of the proper bit and correct (spindle) speed and feed (rate).

SR

Could you use a raccoon as a bath sponge? Sure.

Routing a binding channel would be very tricky since you have alread carved the top. If it were me, I'd just sand the tip of that horn back until the chip is gone and then blend the curves till its smooth. When you are done I doubt anyone will know that horn is 1/8th inch shorter. It will be a little work to get the entire thickness mahagany and all reshaped, but probably less than you'd think.

SR

Neither. I'd go with the ebonized neck wood and let it visualy tie back to that.

You have the projects crossed up. The Iceman has the ebonized neck. The twins are wenge/limba.

Doh!

In that case, I'd go with the limba to balance your pinstripe theme.

SR

Folks, thanks so much! Here's a link to Z-poxy if anyone else is interested:

http://www.amazon.com/Z-Poxy-Finishing-Res...z/dp/B0006O8ESK

One more related question... suppose I was building a maple neck from scratch. Would a black-stained epoxy be suitable for filling the fret dot holes instead of the usual plastic dots? Just asking.

Yeah, I've done that. Or you can paint or stain the insides of the holes black and get the same look with more depth using clear epoxy.

SR

So here's the thing.....

The string spacing on the guitar headstock is pretty narrow. I'm going to add a "nut" right behind the zero-fret. It'll be more of a string-spacing guide than anything. I'll be fashioning it from either wenfe or limba. The limba will stand out like a sore thumb, but it'll match the woods. The wenge will blend in much better, but won't grain-match.

Which would you go with?

Neither. I'd go with the ebonized neck wood and let it visualy tie back to that.

SR

The only advantage or disadvantage is the little bit of time saved or expended, depending on which way you go.

SR

(Yes, sealer is a given, I would definitely use that)

But what if I pour just *a little* too much black-colored epoxy, and I get a slight crown in the groove that would need to be sanded down... would the dried epoxy be substantially harder than the wood around it, and require some rigorous sanding?

Yes, but that is the standard method for inlaying. Just use a sanding block. Epoxy is not especially difficult to sand.

SR

That completely and totally sucks . It's a good thing you held off the oil to wait and see.....

SR

Also, for pure tone, Robin Trower is just loaded with it.

Bridge of Sighs

Hanah

Victims of the Fury

to name but a few.

SR

This guy.

SR

Scott. I will record & post the build on the one piece. Hey even one person interested is worth a look

Great! I love your work.

Speaking of which it's been a while since we've seen anything of the rising sun.

SR