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ScottR

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Posts posted by ScottR

  1. Thick sounds fine, very resonant. But you don't have to keep the back the full thickness, or hunt up a planer or thickness sander to reduce the overall thickness and weight. Carve the back. There are a ton of pics of the carved back in the thread that pic came from. You can see from the pic above that the edge on the tummy cut side is quite thin and the carved back is very comfortable and unique looking.

    SR

  2. I wish I could figure out a reliable source of native Texas woods oily enough to not require a finish.

    Mesquite is great for fretboards.

    Really? Not to hijack the thread, but I thought mesquite required a finish. Am I wrong?

    EDIT: Just gotta say, Paulie...that's unbelievably lousy.

    Just use some Danish oil. Also check into Texas ebony.

    And agreed Paulie, that does suck tremendously.

    SR

  3. I filled a pup cavity and tremolo cavity on a painted guitar a few years back. I took a 4" wide by 1/2" thick piece of cocobolo and routed a 4"x.5" path down the center of the entire face of the guitar. I contoured the surface to match and routed new pup cavities. Polished and oiled in a pearl white body it looks quite striking.

    SR

  4. That's beautiful RAD. :D The accent line under the claro top really ties in the contrasting woods perfectly. The proportions of the wide neck sticks out to my eye...my brain is used to 6 string proportions....but that's kind of what you get with an 8 string huh? :D

    This is really really an impressive piece. What kind of comments did you get on it at the show? Was anyone allowed to play it?

    SR

  5. The hole in the back of the neck threw me for a minute....then I decided it was a recess for the strap button. A quick check back confirmed it. I like the bevels in the horn. I'm trying to mentally picture them carrying on to the end of the horn to see if I would like that better or not...I can't say that I would. It would look less masculine that way.

    Oh and I was right, I do love the top.

    SR

  6. Drilling the two holes on the blade was not trivial, very hard steel ! I used some kind of precision drill bit for metal that I bought from the local hardware store chain. It is a similar idea to the brad-point bits used for wood.

    I've run into that problem building knives, drilling pin/post holes for the handles. I've had good luck with masonry bits.

    SR

  7. Ha. I have an ash club too. Well it looks more like a mallet. I made it from an ash tree in the yard that termites killed. I use it and bigger chisels a lot for rough shaping and rapid material removal. Ol' bear didn't see any but that for the first month or so. It doesn't see too much work on guitars though.

    Crow is another one that does very nice work with a chisel and a hammer.

    SR

  8. Yea the V was quick. Started on a tuesday - handed it over that saterday. 4.5 days in all, I had neck blanks ready to go & some off cuts sitting waiting for one of my green builds (scrapwood builds) body & neck were all glued & fretted by the end of day 2 with the first bouts of colour going on. then clear coat on day 3, assembly on the morning of pickup. I reckon it will need the clear cut & a few more coats whe I get it back for the buffing. But screw it, he wanted it realy fast & I like a challange.

    Anyway. The whole top on the PRS jobbie was chiseled, a gouge is realy the only way to get the scooped out thing I do on the bottom horn. Just havent sanded the edges or inner horns yet. Waiting to see if the customer wants a belly cut in the back before I go much further.

    That is a nice carve Paulie. For the cutaway scoop (and the belly cut) I'm using rasps and cabinet scrapers, I'm not good (and too slow) with chisels and gouges. But your end results are looking great !

    Id try the chisels n gouges again if I were you. the ones you used were probobly too big, I use a very small gouge for almost all my carving. Takes away little pieces at a time & is very controlable. I find th smaller gouges & chisels are better. But thats just me, maby Scott could chime in here, dude has some serious skills with carving tools.

    Yeah, I totally agree with your philosophy, Paulie. I use palm gouges almost exclusively. I next to never use one that you have to hit with a mallet, and then only with tiny little controlled tap taps. For a top carve like yours, I'd mostly use a palm gouge that's a half inch wide for the bulk of it, and never cut deeper than 1/8th" at a time. For tighter areas, I'd use a quarter inch wide gouge, and I even have some that are 1/8" and 1/16" wide, for special occasions.

    SR

  9. My own experience with Danish oil is it keeps pretty much the same shine as the wood had before you put it on. Many times I will polish the wood right up through all the micromesh grades and the raw wood will have a highly reflective glossy finish. The Danish oil goes on and soaks in, darkening and deepening the colors of the wood and keeps the same shine as it had before. Sanding to 320 or 400 has a satin finished look before and after applying Danish oil. It is not typically meant to be a film finish....although there are some who may have used it that way. I think ResorationAD may have used it as a film finish, but I'm not sure, maybe it was just his pictures.

    SR

    edit: That's a very nice looking tele by the way.

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