ScottR

Also gotta throw David Gilmour's tone on a lot of songs, just love it.

Well, yeah........David's pretty good. Understatement of the year! It's hard to hear a Gilmour riff and not know who it is.

When I think back to the music I grew up with, pretty much a steady diet of Pink Floyd and Led Zeppelin, I gotta throw one more out there.

Jimmy Page.

I know he seems to be everbody's favorite to put down....too sloppy they say, but he was definitely a forerunner in the shaping of sound. And it's hard to deny that just hearing the beginning of one his riffs wil identify who playing it. And after 40 years it still sounds great.

SR

I like it a lot, very classy for you.

Left handed compliment aside, nicely done Mike.

SR

Man, that really is wicked!

SR

You are going to do black and sand back anyway right? Dyeing the inside of the routes at that time seems like the natural way to go. Good call .

SR

Do you guys think I should leave it as-is and just put the poly on, or should I redo the rust to get it to look like it did?

I really want some honest opinions, as I just can't decide. My wife hates that yellow border, but it's growing on me. I jut don't know at he moment.

leave as is.

SR

That is amazing cool! I actually like the colored edge...it kinda makes it look active somehow. I can imagine looking at the edge under a microscope and seeing tiny rust monsters eating away at the wood grain. I really admire the creativity of your projects and the artistic nature of your work. It succeeds on multiple levels.

Put me on the list of those wanting know how this is done as well.

SR

Intelioat and Sihl make a coated canvas for UV inkjet printers that print beautifully. Check your local digital printing companies and you should be able to find one that can do that for you.

SR

Acrylic gets CNC'd all the time...by sign companies. Like most materials it's just a matter of the proper bit and correct (spindle) speed and feed (rate).

SR

Could you use a raccoon as a bath sponge? Sure.

Routing a binding channel would be very tricky since you have alread carved the top. If it were me, I'd just sand the tip of that horn back until the chip is gone and then blend the curves till its smooth. When you are done I doubt anyone will know that horn is 1/8th inch shorter. It will be a little work to get the entire thickness mahagany and all reshaped, but probably less than you'd think.

SR

Neither. I'd go with the ebonized neck wood and let it visualy tie back to that.

You have the projects crossed up. The Iceman has the ebonized neck. The twins are wenge/limba.

Doh!

In that case, I'd go with the limba to balance your pinstripe theme.

SR

Folks, thanks so much! Here's a link to Z-poxy if anyone else is interested:

http://www.amazon.com/Z-Poxy-Finishing-Res...z/dp/B0006O8ESK

One more related question... suppose I was building a maple neck from scratch. Would a black-stained epoxy be suitable for filling the fret dot holes instead of the usual plastic dots? Just asking.

Yeah, I've done that. Or you can paint or stain the insides of the holes black and get the same look with more depth using clear epoxy.

SR

So here's the thing.....

The string spacing on the guitar headstock is pretty narrow. I'm going to add a "nut" right behind the zero-fret. It'll be more of a string-spacing guide than anything. I'll be fashioning it from either wenfe or limba. The limba will stand out like a sore thumb, but it'll match the woods. The wenge will blend in much better, but won't grain-match.

Which would you go with?

Neither. I'd go with the ebonized neck wood and let it visualy tie back to that.

SR

The only advantage or disadvantage is the little bit of time saved or expended, depending on which way you go.

SR

(Yes, sealer is a given, I would definitely use that)

But what if I pour just *a little* too much black-colored epoxy, and I get a slight crown in the groove that would need to be sanded down... would the dried epoxy be substantially harder than the wood around it, and require some rigorous sanding?

Yes, but that is the standard method for inlaying. Just use a sanding block. Epoxy is not especially difficult to sand.

SR

That completely and totally sucks . It's a good thing you held off the oil to wait and see.....

SR

Also, for pure tone, Robin Trower is just loaded with it.

Bridge of Sighs

Hanah

Victims of the Fury

to name but a few.

SR

This guy.

SR

Scott. I will record & post the build on the one piece. Hey even one person interested is worth a look

Great! I love your work.

Speaking of which it's been a while since we've seen anything of the rising sun.

SR

Beautiful body work Paulie

Thanks Muzz. I luv carving these JS style things. Has to be my fave body shape out there. Have another one starting later this wee, whole thing carved from one chunk of sapele (except the fret board) Neck & body as one chunk. I might take some piks & put it up. wotcha rekon ?

Please.

SR

Carve looks good Tom. And that's a great chunk of maple! I's gonna be hot all dyed up.

SR

After showing you that, I'm going to chime in with Kill. I micromesh up to 12,000 and then use the polish/swirl remover like Kill does and get a very good polished finish. I actually had a comment that my GOTM entry almost looked too shiny.

Give that a shot first and then spend the bucks if you think you need to. Well spend more buck if you think you need to, micromesh is not real cheap, but it lasts halfway to forever.

SR

That looks pretty dang cool!

SR

Tom,

Have you read this one? It may not give you all the answers...but it'll get pretty close.

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=42539

SR

It's possible the belt was poorly made, one edge longer than the other. Have you tried turning it around and running against the arrows? If so did it track off in the same direction?

SR