Our Souls inc.

no , its not...... it's on a pice of 1/8" board out in the pile...... bubinga like that deserves to be a guitar, so go for broke.

No excuses needed - you aint the only slow-poke 'round here. Nice work on the shop though. and the guitar is lookin quite nice! You doing the polka-dot finish ??

Wudn't me Wudn't accusin', although reading it back, by capitalizing 'mod' I made it look accusatory. My bad. and yeah, post some progress so this thread goes back on track. See what happens when you build slow?

and I think I'm goint to put 4 "windows" in it for a sound-hole. like a door. I'm looking at doors of all kinds to get inspiration. I was thinking of hinging the neck at the bottom, splitting the FB into two sections. the action of the guitar is meant to be high, so getting the FB dead-level isn't as crucial in that area . There are some big rail-road turn abouts and different old stations around here. I'll be looking at those for some artistic inspiration as well. The whole hobo vibe is just calling me on this one.

cool. and cheap. but even I cringed about that HOLE in the side. Never heard of an end-pin jack, I suppose...........

.... and some MOD edited your original thread title to correct the spelling anyways, bahahahahaha.... now my first post makes no sense. Wait. None of my posts make sense. Carry on.

Those musta been some NICE paddles.

I think they look really well planned out. professional, even. #1 immediately made me think of this : http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=44161&view=findpost&p=486851 and # 2 is similar to a design I have, only more 'tall' but eerily similar. It looks like a laughing ghost of a big blue whale to me. My design- not yours. Yours is very "bass" like, and I don't mean the fish. I think build # 1 will look good with some nice quilt maple/ sunburst build # 2 lends itself to solid colors . Black . with some nice white binding. but thats just my opinion, take it for what its worth.

The toy clamp is awesome ! This is a really neat looking build. You have great skill to accomplish this build using the tools you're using.

I've been accused of as much before. the advice on the piezeo is spot on for me. As you can tell by my willingness to use wood from a door to build a one-off, money isn't in my budget either. Not for this build at least. Under saddle doo-hickey's sound promising though...... I used to mic my 12 string by loosening all the strings and literally putting a microphone inside of it. It had a good enough sound, but amplified every little bump you made. Maybe an internally mounted microphone with the cable attachment located on the edge of the guitbox, like a regular mic / stand. Now I'm "runnin off the rails".......... a giant gigar box.

I have some wood from some old doors that I'm trying to make a guitar from. Its being built from the "panels", which are spruce (?) ,pretty much quartersawn , and pretty thin. see pic below Well, the doors had these recesses already routed into them that held the panels in ( when they were still doors ) and I shaped the sides into a sorta-guitar shape. There is a top panel and a bottom panel, with the "rails" going around the edges. Once all shaped up, I'll wrap the edges in a thin strip to prettify it more. Maybe even bind the top and bottom. Its getting a deep set neck, probably a 10th fret join, with the fretboard running on into the 20th fret or so. I'm planning on being able to fret chords on the first 5 frets or so, then dipping the board away from the strings in a curve, so the effective "slide" area will be from about the 5th fret down. I have a ton of questions, and if anyone sees anything they think will make this a real stinker of a build - please try to stop me. I don't know much about hollow guitars, tops, bracing, etc. Probably not going with any electronics unless its a piezo bridge or something. I have two ideas on bracing it - one is like an acoustic: and one would involve a solid block down the center like so: with sound holes along the upper front and lower front. Tail-piece bridge system, so a block is going at the butt area regardless of "full hollow" or "block down the middle" style.. I plan on thinning out the top panel because where the thick part is, it expands both ways, probably 3/8" thick. I was going to leave the face upraised in the center and carve out the back of the panel so the thickness is consistent. Anyone see problems or pitfalls I might be setting myself up for? I plan on utilizing the door hardware on the build in some capacity, possibly a "hinged" neck or some such funnery......

I am sans shop too. don't feel bad. When the weather permits, I build outside. When I must, I steal half of the mud-room and plastic it off. Must. Make. dusts...........

I can officially be added to the list of people who dislike the SM hotrod and the depth of the rod rout they cause. - along with the need for a certain router bit.... I blew through the back of the guitar neck while shaping it. - I guess I can be added to that list too, This , of course was after re-planing the FB, etc. and thinking I was still in 'usable' territory. I has possessed cocobolo's???? its a beautiful looking waste of wood, I know that much. ( goes back to the drawing board.... )

Sounds about like what I described. RAD is correct, a center line is a great way to keep it all , well... centered. however - once the neck is set into the pocket - run a line down both sides like is said above. Once that neck is in, the centerline is just a line. Dead center between those neck lines becomes the bible. In an ideal world, the original centerline will be exactly where the "actual" neck centerline is. If its not- abandon the original and go with the neck lines....... you are on the right path. I measure my fret locations in MM because it's easier to be accurate ( for me ) . Have fun and remember- its just wood.

Not necessarily. The pups and tuners can be had for under $90 New pups and tuners will do wonders for it. White paint and a pearloid PG? Smokin.

I prefer mine to not cost more than the rest of the guitar combined...........

The first guitar in the line-up will be a Jackson Demmelition V copy. It's going to be White with black hardware and bevels.

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/floyd-rose-titanium-tremolo-bridge-kit-with-r2-nut/h77691000000000 $899 for a tremolo? Oh my goodness.

yes, you can "slap" a PG on there.... two things tho .... it wont stick, you'll need screws. and two- ( srius face ) the cavity will need to be routed out through the front, possibly. The PG will add thickness to the front and the switch screws won't reach , along with the path being hampered on each end. although I think White, with gold hardware and pup rings will look very stately. Like a tuxedo kinda. all elegant n stuff. Those gold rush humbuckers I mentioned earlier come in white and they have gold adjusting screws. That'd look sweet.

you had better hope the wife doesn't see any glue spillage on the couch!

I didn't even realize it was wounded.

Josh, if it were me, I'd rout the neck pocket and attach the neck. Once thats done, you can double-check the lines. use a straightedge along both sides of the neck and make pencil lines. That'll be your guide to center the bridge from. the general rule is 1/2 of the scale length from the 12th fret 'crown' to the saddle , but thats generally a high-E string reading. String size and height will determine how much more to adjust the other saddles back . A "tune-o"-type bridge usually has the bass side about 1/8th inch further away from the neck than the treble side. I center my saddles when setting bridge location since I always build without templates. Gives you full adjustment range once everythings built. Have you studied pics of SG's with Bigsby's on them? That'll give you a really good visual of the bridge 'tilt' I described. have fun with it.

K. Looks like a good start. Visit http://www.guitarheads.net/ and put together a package of tuners/pups and while there, look through the 'electronics' section. Lots of cool mods to be had for cheap. The cavity in that RG has plenty of room too. What color are you re-doing it in? Oh and as far as a bridge goes, keep yours and try new saddles. Routing for a FR is an option too. You started it, the rest is up to you.

Pics are king. What kind of bridge did it have? pups n tuners depend on your budget. There's fancy locking tuners that will trim the excess string off for you and then there's places like guitarfetish and guitarheads.net that have great product for little $$. The guitarheads "gold rush" pups are very warm with nice clean tone. What's your budget, low dough or all out?

Speaking of sanding, I'm surprised you left that spot by the treble cutaway. The rest of the guitar looks so professional.