MiKro

You need to consider the epoxy as well. Epoxy resin that is for carbon fiber is different than the stuff you can but at the hardware store. It is a resin designed to be heat cured to its hardness where most utility epoxy is much softer and totally relies on a chemical reaction only and is for bonding use. I have friends that build things for Government Helicopters from carbon fiber as well as carbon fiber spinners for racing airplanes. It is a whole different beast when it comes to how strength is introduced via epoxy resins, heat and carbon fiber type in regards to how it is laid up. .MK

what you see is only a partial of one tab Andrew. that is not the main screen. It is a subset screen. There are many aftermarket variations of all screens based on what others find as the most important parts the consider is needed. MK

I know I got something out of order here but you get the gist. .

Yep. TRy using the MDI tab and yo can command it to move Z up exactly where you want. then if need be yo can then move it back to the lower spec if needed.

@mistermikev My suggestion for you is this. Unplug the spindle, remove any endmill. Now set your Z Zero about half between top and bottom of the travel. Now PLay with the buttons on MACH to see how they react. Maybe put in a small square cutting routine as a toolpath and cut air. no Spindle or endmill. Watch the process. Try the buttons during it running and see what it does and understand the function of what happens while it is running a toolpath. This will help you understand each function and the problem it may pose after. You will learn what things do this way and most likely will not damage anything. Also go into the MDI tab of MACh and learn to use it as it can be a valuable tool knowing how to move things by typing in very specific Gcode commands for basic movements. MK

See attached , if once you have zeroed your z just raise it some. No need to do any thing else. once you hit the start cycle it will go to the X Y zero at the Z safe level first then it will begin the toolpath. Otherwise you will drag the endmill across your work as the Go To Zero button makes them all go to zero.

Mike, in mach on your screen you will see cycle start, Feed hold, stop, and Reset. Stop is similar to EStop. it stops except it stops the motion without shutting things down It if used by itself will lose steps. RESET is ESTOP. Feed hold will run a snort distance as it already has lines in the buffer, then it stops motion with out losing steps. at that time then you can press stop if needed to fix a problem. When you run a tool path it finishes up and parks at X0, Y0, Z + whatever above that is set. It then stops the program and the machine, all while keeping the steppers in a hold mode. It is then, if you have a router that you would turn the router off and change the end mill. The same would apply if your spindle is not MACH controlled. You will turn off the spindle and change the end mill. Then you load the new tool path, reset Z zero for the new end mill by jogging over to the place you use for Z zero setting for that job and rezero Z only, since X and Y should not have changed , raise endmill from work in Jog mode, then Turn on the router spindle and then press cycle start. When done again, wash and repeat. Mike

I have never used mine. Have never had a need to use it? In fact I did not even have one until a few years ago. I just changed the tool when I had a router instead of a spindle as I turned off the router, other than that, now with my spindle controlled by Mach I just change the tool. when it is time. MK

I don't think I have ever used mine?

As far as the estop button, you twist it to unlock i and make it ready. Once like that all you have to do is press it and everything stops. In order start again you will need to untwist it it again. As far as x and y moving yes and no. If you save the session when you leave mAch it should still be like it was. But the steppers are no longer under power so they may have moved some..MK

Well guys the new preamp tubes came in today. I must say, this thing is frigging killer. I forgot how good one of these amps can sound. No more pops, scratches when knobs are turned. only a slight hum when at 100 watts and full volume ( expected ) OMG this thing is like brand new again. I am very pleased with my efforts and I know the Doctor will be as well. Recap of work: Replaced all of the electrolytic capacitors, replaced bad power resistors and a few others, added an adjustable bias pot, replaced all of the potentiometers, rerouted wires to minimize hum, replaced all tubes, and eliminated ground loops. Rewired an old Peavy 3way footswitch with XLR connector to work as a Carvin replacement foot switch. WOW is all I can say. MK

So now I am taking an old Peavey footswitch with 3 switches and going to make it work as an FS36XLR footswitch for this X100B. I don't have a footswitch for this and to get a replica is about $85.to $100 Wish me luck. LOL. UPdate : That is done. MK

I know , they really are good amps. Harder to find now but still can get them for cheap compared to an old Marshall or Fender

That is the software that runs on the computer to controller the actual CNC So if that is what is used? Then Yes. Or you could use linux cnc as a controller software on the PC that controls the CNC. MK

Correct you do not need a 4th rotational axis. Some machines say they are 4 axis when in reality they use 2 steppers on as a slave drive to operate an axis but sine it uses two physical drives they say it is 4 axis. Not the same thing. As far as Mach3 it is the controller software not CAM. CAM ( Computer Aided Machining ) is the part that makes the toolpaths and converts CAD drawings, using the PP to make the G-code.

I always laugh at people that swear by Marshall and think that the early Carvins were a joke. Only for a few years 1988/ 1989 ( also the only years of the carpet exterior) did the x100b have only EL34 as power tubes. The ones before and after you could use EL34s or 6L6s and there was a bias switch for them. This gave it the ability to more than compete with any Marshall of the time. As it could get just as gritty and growl with the best of them using the 6L6 output/power tubes. change to the El34s and they could get cleans that no Marshall ever could. Adding the 5 band EQ made the 3 Treb. Mid, Bass controls even more flexible. than a Marshall Don't get me wrong I have nothing against a Marshall, but for the money the Carvin was overall the best deal out there for the same sound in my opinion. MK

Mach3 is the software that controls the motion of the CNC. the Cad software is used to design the 2d lines that the CNC will eventually cut out using G-code. The CAM part of the software is where the magic of lines to g-code conversion happens based on the post processor used. If you will be using Mach3, then you choose the appropriate Post Processor for mach3. which ever yuo are setup as , maybe in MM or in imperial inches.. That will make a file that contains the G-code. this in turn is used by Mach3 to interpret what it is supposed to do in regards to X0, Y0, Z0 . All of these which you will also setup in relation to your machine and what it is you are doing. MK

Damn Skippy it was. Some Frank Zappa as well.

Nope it does not work that way. I wish it did at times. it would be easier to write some things where the logic makes more sense. LOL

Just an FYI the free version allows 500 lines which is nothing. A carved guitar body can use 1 mil or more lines

Other than waiting on the new preamp tubes this is done. Looks great for circa ( 1989 ) and it sounds awesome again mk

Mike I am not offended at all. I understand your wants. I will say that this is an environment that requires a lot of upfront study as well as trial and error, mix all of that with frustration.LOL As far as the Chinese CNC's I will defer to others as I know little about them. Mike

Just fired it up with tubes. sounds very good. Iused the old preamp tubes and the new power tubes. I then put the new preamp tubes in and 2 were DOA So I have to send them back. MK