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MiKro

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Everything posted by MiKro

  1. Thanks Weston, Give me a call when you get a chance. Mike
  2. SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEETTTTTTTTTTT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Looking Great !!! Mike
  3. Gosh, and your suggestion for using dowels is what? Dowels will leave him with ENDGRAIN. Just about as useless as filler. Use PLUGS cut correctly( straight not tapered) and glued correctly and it will work. Just my 02 cents. MK Wow, people do get tetchy and sensitive on here don't they? I think I should look for some place a little more welcoming. I'm not keen on the one-upmanship, see who's smartest thing. I thought people here were supposed to help one another. That's what I tried to do. So I made a mistake by mentioning measurements because I was sat at work. The basic principle of my suggestion was sound and was a solution. But I've been attacked now by three people on details. I said nothing about end grain or cutting tapers. Oh I give up. Have a great time between yourselves. I see you all stick together and this is no place for newbies. Fine. Lucky I didn't hit that "Donate" button yet. Well gosh, I apologize for sounding so harsh, but miss information can harm people. Yes your idea is sound in principle, but it must be done correctly. As Ihocky pointed out the reason for plugs, I should have explained it in more detail. Again, my apologies, Mike
  4. Gosh, and your suggestion for using dowels is what? Dowels will leave him with ENDGRAIN. Just about as useless as filler. Use PLUGS cut correctly( straight not tapered) and glued correctly and it will work. Just my 02 cents. MK
  5. Thanks Chris for the insight and concern. I understand the ripples,yes it has a slight amount. I think it came more from the webbing used than anything, Even though the stainless shim stock is like .009 it seems to bring through the webbing impression that he uses.??? Well we'll see! I have noticed that many builders of reso's are now putting vertical bracing on the sides as well. Usually on both sides of the waist and in the middle of the bouts. Also bottom bracing as well as a center brace on the top at least to the screen holes. Most I've seen like this are using flat sawn or highly figured sides. Have not gotten an explanation as to this being a help for this or not , but I have observed the practice and will do the same on mine. I looked at a Beard open soundwell model using a mirror through the screen hole. It looks like he's opening the sound well from 10 to 2 o'clock and also bracing similar to what I described? Mike
  6. Thanks Chris, As far as the flatsawn, My friend George has been bending all types of wood for many years( he also bends acrylics and plastics. I asked that question, because I was worried about it delaminating itself. He assured me that we could do it, but there was a risk? He used a longer soak time with about 15% added ammonia to the water. Also suggested no more than 7/64" thickness, and preferably thinner. It seemed to work fine? Now I'm not going to tell you that it will everytime, but this experience for me came out quite nice. Maybe I just got lucky LOL:)) I do plan to build me a hotbox and will try more and see what happens. I think the Weisse is a great plan. My friend has one and is now building the forms to make his own. I'm looking forward to helping him and learning more. Mike
  7. Hi all, Well I got bored with the solid bodies for right now. So I started an acoustic/reso squareneck build. Will be black walnut back and sides, maple top, not sure what type of maple yet, a black walnut neck with maple lams., cocobola fretboard most likely bound with maple and abalone fret markers. Will be addind a fishman pickup mounted to a Beard cone and spider. Waverly open tuners. Thats about it. Here's a link to the start of this. I hope to get this done pretty quickly, buty I know that the holidays are coming and there are things to do. BAH HUMBUG!!!!!!! Reso build semi blog Mike
  8. 96 American Strat hardtail, fat50s Pups, 1982 Carvin x100b head, set for 25 watts, 4/12 Carvin cabinet mk
  9. Hey Perry, want to explain this a little more...how are actives more prone to shock via mis wired pots than passives? pete oops. Reminder to self: Never post on two different forums, about guitar electronics, at the same time and jumping from one reply to the next, whilst answering the phone, and talking with the missus. Its liable to see me put my foot in my mouth! Post editted here and on another forum That was fun!!! It's okay Perry we all stick, foot in mouth, occasionaly. It's those that admit it, that are the real HEROES! sincerely, Mike
  10. Carvin uses 10 deg. So find what you like and be Happy )), I wouldn't venture less than than 10deg, but then again I've never tried it (less than 10 deg that is). Just my .02 cents worth. Mike
  11. I'm in Dallas and there some in the DFW area? Hitone is the local DFW acoustic builder.
  12. I agree that's a NASTY break and NO epoxy wont help. Remove the fretboard and scarf joint on a new headstock and add a new fretboard. Just my .02 cents worth MK
  13. +1 again on the micromesh. IN fact I've found that buffing with white diamond actually scratches the 12000 grit finish. ONly need to buff with a good wax. Just my observation. MK
  14. You have been PMed, will have more details next week when I meet with the PR people. MK
  15. as Mattia pointed out the drawbacks of wood and small drills. The ferrules will cover them as Mattia HINTS TO! LOL I now drill the outboard holes first and set a line on the back based on those 2, mark and drill all the ferrule holes inline and then go back and finish the others from the top. Some may wander but will find the larger ferrule hole. Just my .02 cents. MK
  16. using a sacrificial piece of wood the length of the neck, approx. 1/16 of an inch thicker than the highest point of the offset piece added. Use double stick thin carpet tape and apply to both sides of the neck blank. Now you have a flat reference surface for the Bandsaw table as well as a surface for the template on the top side to follow. Hope that makes since? MIke
  17. Be careful with the Camphor burl. while most tolerate it in Vicks vapor rub or whatever the stuff is, it can be nasty to some in real life from the wood that it comes from. Just a cautionary word. I love working with it but have to be careful with the dust. Mike
  18. Yes at least one if not both if we can get it done. Call me in the next few days, Have Drs appts before friday. Then work begins AGAIN!!!!! LOL Thanks Jon, MK
  19. The joint looks fine. Move forward I think you will be pleasantly suprised. My only concerns are that the main neck is thinned By shaping at the joint, but most glue joints don't fail, the wood does. NO GUARANTEES!!!!! but it looks like it is a clean joint and if glued well shoud not be a problem. MK
  20. Worse case scenario, drill the holes out 2 sizes oversize and plug , DON'T USE DOWELS as they are endgrain standing in that application, use Real plugs and refinish the guitar. Sorry, but that's the way I see it. Hopefully, they will REPLACE the Guitar. MK
  21. I have been asked to allow Michael Godard to paint one or more guitars for the Annual Margarita Ball in Dallas. He plans on doing this live while the silent auction is going on. This Auction and Ball is Black Tie and brings in millions in the silent auction for under priveledeged children. Do I feel priveledged or what to be asked?( My guitars suck LOL:) Yes, but IT SCARES THE HELL OUT OF ME!!!!!!!!!!!!! NOW I CAN"T MAKE ANY MISTAKES!!!!!!!!!! I have about 20 days to produce a FINE piece. Any help would be appreciated and noted as builders. BTW I have the double cut to finish and the 335 mini clone so not much more to do, so any help would be greatly appreciated from those close in location to me would be great. if your are willing to help. Not sure I can get one done in that few days without the the extra effort. Thanks Mike here's some of his work. link BTW he's donating over 150K in paintings for the auction.
  22. I've found that small planers 12" to 15 " that when you adjust the the in feed and out feed tables ( which are usually small) add about 1/32nd of an inch rise at the outside ends. this tends to lessen snipe. Just my observations using them over the years. MK
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