MiKro

Primal, Thanks for the input. I have decided that I am going to narrow the neck tenon top and bottom, then set it in as a full length set neck so I can use the cap and also have the sapele body for the back without the maple neck tenon showing through. I see this as just a few more routing steps. I have been a workworker for years and this is just another joint to me. We will see how it comes out. Just trying to find time is the hardest part. LOL!!! Thanks again and Happy Holidays MIke K

Well SL, You have made my day. I'll pass on purchasing the Artist and thanks, but the dimensions are greatly appreciated. Now I can adjust my drawing accordingly. Man thanks again and Happy Holidays. MIke K

Thanks, i have already done that from the Ibenez website. But I'm afraid that it is not a DNuts on pic so I'll go by the feel of it. Thanks again!! Mike K

Thanks Duff, The same PUPs are in my LesPaul 68 reissue and I think they will work fine for me. We will see what happens. My 1980 Artist was stolen about 6 years ago and I really enjoyed that guitar. So the reason for my build. Thanks again, Mike K

Hello All, I have been lurking here for awhile and finally am going to take the jump and start my first build. I have learned so much from this forum, and I thank ya'll for your indulgence with my questions. I have done much research here and now it's time to ask. I have decided to build an Ibenez Artist type design. Double cutaway, tilt neck. I have a good start on the body shape from Pictures but was wondering if someone had the true dimensions of an Artist body? My plan starts with a Carvin Maple neckthrough paddlehead, Sapele wings with either a Lacewood cap or quilted maple cap. Gibson, 496R and 500T PUPs, Carvin hardtail bridge with string throughs and Carvin Tuners. Again thanks for all of your help in advance. Mike K

Well, I want to thank all of you for your insight, knowledge and suggestions. I'll try a few things this weekend and maybe not end up with a piece of firewood. Then again that might be a good thing. LOL:))) Thanks again for all of your help and input. Mike

Nope, first thing I checked? The fret board is flat and true to the back surface of the headstock and the top surface of the headstock. It appears that the heel was milled this way. When looking at the heel all the way to the nut, the plane of the strings follows the angle of the heel in relation to the nut string slots and depth. As if to flatten them to the body ????? or keep equidistance from the pups. MK

Ok heres the pic http://www.mikrovisions.com/wood/heel1.JPG I think what I will do is shave it flat and then using a 1/4 dovetail bit 1/8 deep, add an additional 3/4 to 1 inch piece and make this a set neck. Your thoughts???? Thanks again Mike K

Actually it is a Fender neck from a Squire Strat that was sevearly damaged. Only the neck survived and some of the electronics. The difference from side to side is about 1/16 of an inch in thickness. I will remeasure and get some pics, as I beleive there will be enough to bring it back flat without getting to thin on the heel. Thanks for your response. Mike

Hello All, I'm new here so please excuse any stupid things that I do. Just let me know! LOL:)) So, I've been lurking for quite sometime and have decided to do my first build. I have searched the archives for this and found nothing. So here is my question. I have a strat neck that I am going to use for this build. My problem is that the neck heel has an angle in the bottom that appears to compensate for the string height/or string diameter to allow it to be flat in relation to the body. This is from the heel end not lenghtwise. See link for drawing http://www.mikrovisions.com/wood/neckheel.jpg Do I need to leave this in or should I flatten the heel? I will be setting the neck pocket at an angle so I can use a TOM. I feel that the extra side angle will only cause problems. What is your assessment on this? Thanks in advance for all of your help, Mike

PR3, a pic would help. They may have stained the wood and now with your RAW cut it is much lighter. I t mat only require a simple clear coat also. Try some water or mineral spirits on the raw wood to see if it matches. If not then stain has been added, then yo have to figure out what color stain and try and match. MK

Interesting that "Lacewood" is not on those lists. It also has effects similar to cocobolo. Just wanted to add that one as another to be careful with. MK

Thanks, I called them after I got online and they quoted me $45 upcharge and 8weeks. So you got a deall. I'm glad someone does. I guess it's either do it myself when I start or spend the $. Thats nuts? I don't mind the $45 but $30 sounds better, But 8 weeks? I can muck up at least 3 necks in that time LOL:)) LOL:))) Thanks again. Mike K

Duff, If your looking for good figured Maple or Mahogany, I buy from Gilmerwood.com, No I'm not a relative just I've used them for a long time for many woodworking projects and found they are honest and you get to see the wood before your buy. Check some of my Maple from them. http://www.mikrovisions.com/wood I have posted a pic of some of my figured Maple from them. Most of these are 8/4 or better and at least 7 in. wide. I figure I have plenty of billets or tops just in the pic for at least 10 guitars. Just wanted you to know ther are alternatives. Mike K. ps. soon I start my first guitar project. Then the questions come from me LOL. I have been lurking for a while and reading as much as I can so I will try and not ask STUPID questions ,Just make stupid mistakes. LOL:))))

I'm somewhat new here been lurking alot so forgive me if my post is wrong? (disregard my stupidity)))) I had Maple on my mind Mike I see that your neck is Mahogany, Man Im blind!! LOL Good luck on the match. If you dont mind me asking though what was the upcharge for the Mahogany neck from Maple and also the lead time? Thanks in advance MK

Try this link if you want some Bubinga. http://www.gilmerwood.com/Bubinga_featured_wood-01-07-04.htm

Thanks Erik, I just have never seen it used for fret boards. I was aware of the dust/toxics from cocobolo though, thanks for the reminder LOL! I have found that planing CB is not easy. I finally started using a plunge router in a sled/jig and plane from the top and almost no chip out. Takes longer though Also have you ever seen anyone use multiple pieces for the neck using Multi scarf joints that interlock or dove tails to use up your scrap (exotic) wood? I have an idea for a Guitar that would use many smaller pieces to form 3 long boards that would be laminated to make the neck? This would give it a puzzle effect. Then do something similar for the top and back of the guitar. Stillhave this one in the planning stages. It will be called "Puzzled" of course LOL Thanks for the Welcome also, It is nice to find a site that from what I have read has many talented people and willing to help. Thanks again Mike

Hi, I'm New here so excuse my mistakes. Has anyone ever tried using figured Cocobolo for the fret board? I have some beautiful Cocobolo that I'm thinking of using on a Lacewood neck. I think it would look killer against a nice maple top? I love the feel and look of ebony and the Cocobolo is also very hard and slicks up really nice. any thoughts or feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike