MiKro

 An oldie I made years ago.

Jet Jons Jag.

Build here:

SPECS:

3 piece Alder body

Maple Neck, EIR Fretboard 34" scale Tele Headstock

Jag bass redesign by my self.

All redesign, cnc cut by me and finish work by hand.

Finish was done with lacquer and 2 k clear coat.

BadAss 2 bridge,

EMG active pickups w/ three volumes and one tone control

Hipshot tuners, 1 is a Drop D

Banjo Frets, ( He likes them crisp as he places his fingers on the actual fret, the harmonics on this are a beast)

Sorry I lost many pictures in a HD Crash, so this is the best I have at present, had to get the owner to get me some.. LOL!!! Pictures are of the owner John, One gigging in his Brian Adams Tribute band. This thing rocks. The first Bass I ever built. I let John finish sand the hand, arm and belly carve to suit him. He also wanted to spray the color.  LOL!! Now it is one of the new models I will be using.

Yep, I know where is the damn control cover? Jon lost it, so i have to make another one. LOL!!!

20 hours ago, ScottR said:

>snip<

Taking pictures down a well breasted gal's blouse feels a bit pervy...on the other hand Wally is very interested!

SR

Damn the torpedoes.

mk

2 minutes ago, mistermikev said:

i know mikro... but the gentleman above - who started this thread... is interested in doing a symmetrical strat, and based on bizman's drawings... looks like he intended a bolt on.

I agree needs to extend the pocket out if using bolt on. Or use six screws like some basses now

52 minutes ago, mistermikev said:

i concur - lovely stuff.  that a gotm just waiting there.

should be noted that there is not a lot of real estate to hold that neck in... and it might not be obvious to onlookers that your neck extends through the neck pickup rout... which makes it a solid pocket... I'm not sure I'd trust this on a bolt on neck that ends right at the end of the neck.  perhaps I'm wrong, but it would seem that using screws... and nothing to secure it 'side to side' would be ripe for stability issues.  I'd at least use inserts/machine screws if I was going to do that - to try and get a tighter grip on that neck.  just one ahole's o

@mistermikev

It is a set neck not bolt on.

MK

7 hours ago, Gogzs said:

@MiKro I've seen this one pop up from time to time in various threads (I think the last time was when you were cleaning the shop) and I still can't believe you didn't finish it. Such a weird but pretty build.

Yep, I guess maybe I should up the priority on the to do list. 

mk

On 3/13/2021 at 11:40 AM, Bizman62 said:

Oh - My - Goodness! How long has that been just sitting there, unfinished?

 

 

About 6 years now. LOL. I know I need to get it done.

Like This one?

mk

Luis would you be interested in a billet of Pale Mun Ebony? I have one that is about 40" x 8" x 2-1/2" about 4 years old now? I can get better measurements if needed

Mike

37 minutes ago, Bombard said:

Hi all. Newbie here. I have built several three string guitars. Typical bolt for the nut and Home made bridge. Having trouble dialing in the neck. When tuned in GDG the twelfth feet harmonic is right on but when I travel up the neck most all fret positions are sharp  my neck is straight and on the last guitar I built I flattened and filed the frets. String height on all are a little different but all are playing the same. I used a paper template I purchased for the 23” scale and I was as accurate as I could be when laying out.  Any suggestions?  Also tried to attach pics but said the two pic file was to large? Any one know how to attach pics?  

 

First welcome to PG.

locating the bridge accurately is the most common problem from an intonation standpoint. I might suggest that you use the fret calculator on Stewmac.com site. That would be a good start to help overcome inaccuracies in your fret slot location and bridge saddle placement. Most likely choose acoustic style for the type of bridge saddle placement you are using. As far as scale that would not change from electric or acoustic.

MK

6 minutes ago, mattharris75 said:

It's just a matter of game preference, I reckon. Personally, none of those games was really my jam, so I didn't spring for the trackball when I built my arcade cabinet kit...

I am thinking the same thing as well. LOL!!!

Then again I may sell this one, even though I find it hard to justify the additional $80 for 4 games?

mk

So now I must decide if I want to add a trackball? Only 4 games that use it on this Jamma board.

Centipede, Millipede, Super Breakout, and Arkanoid.

Otherwise I leave them off the list of games available. The trackball is another $80. What do you think?

MK

Finally I was able to turn off the games that I don't want. Man this service menu is clunky and no documentation does not help.

I guess when I am done I will make some REAL docs. LOL!!

So far other than the problems I have found during setup and install, it is nice once it is working correctly.

Now to finish out the new layout and go from there.

MK

3 hours ago, mistermikev said:

right on... i spose all you can do is start from one end and work to the other.

Yep, and now I am finding they just crimped some of the connectors on over the insulation as far as the cable goes. what a fucking mess.

Now I must check continuity on every one of those.

MK

11 hours ago, mistermikev said:

sorry to hear of wiring complications... never fun.  48wires sounds like a pita w/o an accurate diagram.  I would think - given that's such a popular item... someone on a forum somewhere has a corrected layout file.  idk if there's anything useful here but it was an interesting read anyway! https://www.instructables.com/install-a-JAMMA-harness-in-an-arcade-cabinet/

 

Yep I have seen that one. Some of it is correct others not?

MK

10 minutes ago, mattharris75 said:

I had thought that a Jamma board would simplify things over a Raspberry Pi setup, but you're not giving me a lot of hope here...

I would rethink it now, I am not impressed so much with the Jamma board now. It would be nice if I could assign buttons with it but that is not the case so far and the available datasheets  suck, Small things like what they say is up and down on a joystick is wrong.Also you must use the player 2 start  location to start a game. The menu is bizzar to say the least.

MK.

Well that layout sucks. LOL!!

Way to many buttons for what I plan to do. Also no manual for the wires to know what does what.

Yes there is a manual for the board and pins but they are not correct. So now to go through and figure out what 48 wires do since I only need 8 maybe 12 of them. LOL.

Fuck me. Even the joy stick pinouts are bassackwards top to bottom, right and left are correct. Jeeeze what a fucking nigthmare. On top of that a friend is all about what ART I am going to do on the damn thing? Fuck if I know? I need to make it work first.

Have a great weekend all.

MK

Enter it this month in GOTM, since there no entries, but you better hurry.

The weather is good now. So back in the shop and I got the control panel cut out and started test fitting switches. They snap right in.

Need some screws for the Joy sticks. the one on the left will be the 4 way (blue) and the middle one (gray) an 8 way.

MK

3 hours ago, MiloszM said:

I will export it into fusion and do it there then. Where are you caming?

I have RhinoCAM6 still, as well as Aspire so I am good with it.

I can use Fusion 360 if I need to but I really see no use in that product as it is Online based and now has limits for the free version. Yep all of those that went that way are going to be squeezed into a month to month at some point. Typical AutoCAD product.

mk

10 minutes ago, MiloszM said:

Thanks for reminding me about this soft! I will try that sub-d. just installed rhino7. last time got stucked with grasshopper. This is too good. I heard its got some CAM addons as well.

Yes the CAM is expensive though, but very good.

So this looks to be the final before hitting the cnc with it.

So I am thinking something like this so far?

1 minute ago, mistermikev said:

There is only one thing a true child of the 80's would say to something like that... and that is "SKATE OR DIE"!!!  looks pretty cool so far bud.

Thanks Mike, I plan to get something on the CNC today for controls. Just not sure of the plan yet. LOL!!!

MK

Now to decide the control layout? I am thinking Single player with 2 joysticks. a 4 way and an 8 way. Some of the games work better with the 4 way and others the 8 way.  I'm not going to spend the $$ for a servo based 4/8 way joysick.

Then comes the number of buttons as well? 4, 6 , 8 buttons? That does not include any admin types for start, test, coin? Pinball side buttons for simulated Pinball game?

I don't think I need a trackball or spinner? I can't think of any games on this that really need one? What a PITA to figure out.  I may need to allow for it later though?

MK

So the top part looked a little heavy and oversize So I redid those..

MK