Juntunen Guitars

Yes Dillon using a milling machine is cheating but in my opinion only and yes I am sure CNCs are nice but then you can't call the guitar hand made. By the way Muffinpunch all I asked Prostheta was how he is liking Finland since he moved from England.

Yeah it does I never noticed that. It does I guess I lucked out living here

Miten olet mieltynyt Suomi? I agree though this becoming a good guitar. Hey, lets keep the inside jokes to a minimum. I dont speak Finnish (guessing). No inside jokes there.

Miten olet mieltynyt Suomi? I agree though this becoming a good guitar.

So the other day I decided the first Minnesota guitar I built just wasn't working, there were things I skipped out on due to shortage of money and it was built entirely from parts I took off other guitars (I was given about 3 guitars within 2 weeks by people at my school who didn't play anymore). The guitar in itself works great but I am looking for something with a bit more. I was looking through my wood racks and found a lot of ash I forgot I had and a huge chunck of black walnut, along with many projects I started and never finished like 5 acoustics, a gibson style v and a strat. So here is what this guitar will be. Body: White Ash Neck: bolt on 5 piece maple, black walnut, hickory, black walnut, maple. Fretboard: Black Walnut, 24 Jumbo frets Scale length: Whatever Gibson uses (24 5/8th inch I think) Pickups: Haven't decided yet, either a Seymour Duncan blackout, Fullshred, or an Invader humbucker Electronics: 1 vol, 1 tone and fully shielded Finish: Similar to what Muzz did in his "Pointy Stick" build by filling the grain with black stain and then a color over it. I won't be using blue though but instead a two tone tobacco burst type finish. Truss rod: Handmade dual action rod Bridge: Floyd Rose or an Ibanez ZR tremolo if I can find one that's cheap. Tuners: Schaller or Gotoh, haven't fully decided Here are some pictures of the wood. This is the original MN guitar. This build will probably be like Muzz's "Pointy Stick" build in the amount of time it takes but not quite as long.

That is extremely orange. Looks like the clothes you you wear to deer hunt.

I'd love to sell some. The market around here is kinda dry. All I've ever been able to sell are bodies, and then only on eBay. I don't get what they're worth, but I DO get enough profit to warrant doing it. It funds my builds. Yeah, I kinda figured I would take a major loss if I sell any. Hate to sell a guitar for what the pickups are worth, no matter how badly I need to move it or how seldom it gets played. Maybe that's why people on Ebay take their guitars apart to sell them. Nice going on the build btw. Always look forward to your updates. Doesn't hurt to try and sell one on Ebay or craigslist but put it so that you at least get what you paid to build it. I have sold a couple guitars for around $300-$400 USD but they were custom ordered. I just tell people who I know play guitar I build them and then word gets spread around. I have sold guitars in Hawaii but I live in Minnesota and since you are from America I am sure you are aware of the distance so it's just getting the word out that you build.

Looks really good Definatly liking the blue finihs btw. I guess when they say good things come with time they weren't joking

First off this is not an Iceman. I am not Paul Stanley. plans? plans? who needs stinking plans... I made a template for a real iceman. I am not sure how accurate it is. Do a little searching on this forum and you will find how to make a template from a picture.!!! I know this is not an iceman I just like the idea of the iceman point on a destroyer. I know about this post for making a template from a picture, moth and I both have posted ways to do it, mine was for the iceman to.

Could be but if you look close there is three different colors, the black, then a lighter color which I think is the primer, then the dark, middle color that is the MDF or whatever the wood is

Last time I bought from AIguitars the template came broken ... and when I called them and they put the phone down a guy said "the guy with the broken template called" which to me meant they knew it was broken but when they picked the phone back up they were nice enough to say they would ship me new one for free. The reason I am wondering about this is because I use different control cavities that take up as little space as possible and require little routing, not these big holes with a cover over them. Except for my seven string build, I got a little carried away there.

Looking good, I like it.

I think the model I am thinking of is the S series. The guitar player in my band has one and it has a carved top and back. They are both gradually sloped carves like the RGA series. But I am going to try the binding again first then if that doesn't work I will do the carved top. I just thinnk that when I cut the original binding strips I cut them from a piece of scrap and the grain must not have been in the right direction for bending. This carved top topic has raised my curiosity though, I think I am going to do a stype of carve on a strat I am building for myself ... I will look into it

a what? ... I am trying to find ways to save money, i'm cheap and poor plus I have epoxy that I can use

So are you going to be putting cutaways on this since it's the early version of the Rhoads?

Yeah I have been to busy lately to work on it but I have been thinking of making a carved top like the Ibanez Prestige models, at least I think it is the Prestige, but I cut the binding strips smaller so I will see if those will bend now at some point this week.

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...mp;#entry463010 That is a post I made on making templates from pictures. That might help you with this since the link is broken. By the way you were perfectly understandable with your english don't worry about it.

I have been thinking of ways to get some routing templates made for control cavities and just thought of this idea. I free hand route control cavities but the lip that the cover sits on has always been hard for me to get acurate with the covers I make and I use the same control cavity route on all my rear routed bodies so I thought maybe I could make a cover that's about a half inch thick and put it on the plywood sheet. Then using a ball bearing bit, route around the edge of it so I have an over sized hole that it fits in wiht plenty of room. Then pour epoxy in the hole to fill in around the cover. Surface sand it and have a semi clear template. I would then have a template that I could sit over the control cavity and have a shape I know I will always get out of the route. So would this work ok or am I missing something? I got this idea from building canoe paddles

This ones going to look good. Are you going to put a floyd on or fixed? Nice choice on fretboard wood too. This build makes me almost want to finish the rhoads style I started a few months ago, but then I would be out a nice coaster for the table

You wouldn't have to mold the pickup ring to the top. If you have enough wood left you could just route the pickup cavity edges flat so the ring sits flat in there. I don't have any experience with the Gretsch you mentioned so I can't help you there. And by the way, that jig you mentioned works great.

channel is to thick I would have to downsize the body quit a bit. I have some tortise shell plastic binding and it takes three of those in a row to equal the thickness of my wood binding. I am working on finding a way to do a type of carved top for this but if I can't I don't know what I'l do

Hmm ... well I tried to bend the binding today two ways, 1. With a pipe and 2. By steaming it, neither worked. They broke I tried for about 2 hours by steaming and 2 with the pipe, I'm not to happy right now So now I have two things to decide 1. Try to find a way to make the binding work or 2. Do a type of carved top. What do you guys think? BTW the binding is black walnut.

It's been a little while since I worked on this but I now have the top glued on and sanded, all routing is done, and all the binding channels are routed. I still haven't re-opened the pickup cavities. My design changed after I finished routing the control cavity. I was oridinally going to put the jack on the side of the guitar so I routed closer to the edge but then decided to put it on the top of the guitar so the cavity is a lot bigger than it needed to be.

If you glue your fretboard without radiusing it first you don't have this problem and it saves the time of having to grind so much off the frets and having to make a jig like you did. Plus you ussually don't have to level your frets at all if you do it this way or you just barely have to take a little off of one or two frets. Works perfectly for me. Plus I agree you don't need tons of clamps to glue a fretboard.

haha yeah but this is fixable and no that piece of walnut is in the neck it's not what I was lining them up with. It will get covered in paint anyways.