Devon Headen

Or rubber. MORE COWBELL!!!

The high e is your best bet. You barely have to intonate it (move it back) because it's so small.

But he was talking about using the Mirage topcoat, then if it didn't get hard fast enough, spray a faster drying topcoat over that. He's not talking about just using the midcoat then topping it with something else.

Front of nut to the string breaking point. Right where the string makes contact with the saddle.

A saddle is where the string makes contact at the bridge. On my solidbodies, there are six, one for each string.

But what I'm saying is that if the dupli takes so long to completely cure, it's still gonna be shrinking ever so slightly. If the topcoat doesn't have much flex (ie completely cured) and the undercoat clear is still curing, it stands to reason that the top harder coat will get cracks. I've never tried so I'm not sure, but that's what I would guess would happen. Maybe I just don't understand what you're saying?

If you need an answer now, do a forum search. Seriously, that's one of the most basic questions about a guitar period. Scale length is the distance from the fretboard side of the nut to the saddle.

If you spray a harder finish over a softer one, the soft one will continue to shrink, and it will crack the cured topcoat.

Let's see...way too many out there, I'll just throw out a couple nice key of G chords 7-x-0-7-x-x 5-x-0-6-x-x and move that general shape around a lot. Also, must have chords for percussive rhythm (root note with 3 and octave, and root + b3 and b3 octave) 7-6-x-8-x-x 7-5-x-7-x-x umm...an interesting Dsus4 for variety x-5-4-0-3-x you can also throw in the 2 with the open high e, or fret the high e at the fifth to give it another 5. The fat sounding e5 on all six strings finally wore out for me, so I'm pretty sick of it. Another variation with only 2 root notes, is 0-2-x-4-0-0 a nice sounding bm(something; don't feel like figuring it out) for key of D is x-2-0-2-3-0 I think that's quite enough for now, but I could go on forever. Well, a couple more shapes for good measure x-5-4-6-5-x 5-7-9-6-5-5 x-x-3-5-x-5 (very fun little shape) Let's hear some original thought in here EDIT: didn't see Mr. Churchyard beat me to that 2 (or 9) shape.

If it's a one off custom design, there's no way to make templates. I know a few people that 'build guitars' that wouldn't know where to start without having their premade templates. I think it's nice to be able to tweak stuff halfway through the build and not have to worry about making new templates.

You have to scale it 1:1 and change it to mm instead of in. Right now it's trying to print an inch for every mm. I don't have autoCAD, so I'm not sure how to change the setting in that specific program.

Can we please try that with punctuation? I think I kind of get the jist, but I want to make sure.

I'll try to get a picture of it, but it's really nothing fancy.

I said no, because I just hate being in debt. No other reason. I know, people say you can do the zero interest, and you can just make payments on the base price, but I don't want to unless I'm guaranteed to have the money for the payments.

I scraped it in two hours on a fretboard with no problems at all. Sandpaper is fine.

Sounds like the guitar is useless right now, so other than sentimental value, it sounds like a good training guitar to me. To do your first neck reset and rebuild the top. Could give you some very valuable experience if you're planning on doing this much.

Dan Erlewine "Guitar Player's Repair Guide". Very comprehensive book by 'The Man'.

Seconded. He'll either do a better job, or it will be much easier if he has the neck on hand. You can't do anything with it until the body's ready anyway.

If you get a piece of wood 2 times the dimensions you need for a neck, you'd have to wait a LOT longer than 3 weeks for it to dry. Stuff from the mill is usually dripping green. You should also leave it rough sawn until you're about to use the wood, then plane it.

I personally use a router as little as possible. I don't know what it is about them, they just never really felt very safe to me. I usually only use it for pickup cavities and the neck pocket. I use it for the control cavity if it's a 1 piece back. I might be more apt to use it when I get one with more power. My thing is, a few of the things you do with a router can be done by hand nearly as fast with less risk of screwing up your work or hurting yourself.

Just make sure your table saw is set up right, and the jig is made with all perfect square corners and you'll be set. Took me a bit of fiddling with the mitre slot guides to get everything perfect.

Hold up. So the actual strat lock broke with the little bearing things still holding the rest of it in? Which means you cant get to the screw? Or do you mean the whole thing broke off and the screw head came off with it?

If they have maple it's fine, but you can get it much cheaper other places. I don't have a Home Depot near me, but I know Lowes doesn't carry maple. You should really look for a hardwood place near you. Or even a furniture shop for the small amoumt you'd need. The furniture place would probably glue stuff up for you for a small fee, too.

More like every blues or rock solo ever written

Just level along the string paths when you get close to finished. That should alter the compound radius very little if at all. You shouldn't be taking out much wood anyway.