Musiclogic

Grain filler is usually the consistency of thinned paste, much like rubbing compound. Wood filler is generally more like dough, thick and workable but not thin enough to really spread into the grain. It is used to fill holes generally. BUT you can thin Elmers wood filler with water, and make it work like a grain filler, and quite well, but you must work fast using this method, as it will dry and re set quite quickly. Only use a small amount of water with a small amount of filler and mix well, then spread on your chosen area working it into the grain with a small paddle or squeegy. Always work across the grain to get best fill, and do a final squeegy with the grain when finished filling area to smooth. As for finish on Swamp Ash(Black Ash)if filled with a natural or clear filler, finish sand to 400grit, take a damp rag(NOT WET...just damp) and wipe the complete body down to raise the grain/fuzz it up, let dry for 8 hours, sand back with 400 until smooth, clean away all dust, lay down 3 coats of sealer, let dry overnight(minimum 12 hours), sand smooth with 320 and 400, you are ready to begin applying your color. Complete finish regimine from here.

agreed...I have a set of 7 Ibex finger planes I use for doing violins and Cellos, nice planes, and the Steels hold an edge fantastically.

Titebond 1 or 2 are most popular, some don't like 3, I have used Titebond for many years now, we used it at Gibson, and Heritage. There are still a few Hide Glue fans out there, and I even use it on Cellos and Viols, but Titebond is really the standard type(meaning Alaphatic Resin) used in most shops these days.

Just a note on the Fret Pullers, they are actually quite good, and well ground. I have a set of Channel lock dykes I ground for pulling frets, and lost them, I bought one of the cheap pullers off ebay in a pinch, and they work well, I have used them on 6 or 7 refrets without a problem. It's one of the Few tools off Ebay I can vouch for.

you never want the exact radius of the board, you want the fret wire bent a little more than the fretboard to get the splaying effect when hammering or pressing in frets. This gives you a more positive seating, and better tang lock in the slot. So you can over bend without being concerned.

You can also get an arbor press from Grainger Supply and Ebay has a bunch cheap

Allied Rods and the rods from Grizzly are made in the same factory, Martin Keith of Keith Guitars also sells these rods with a longer nut at a good price...something like $9 or $10 each if you buy 3. Just a note in case anyone was not aware of this.