egdeltar

Hahaha....... Thats the easy way out. Im gonna do the 3-way selector and 1 volume. It has too many knobs and switches for me right now, I like it simple.

OK so I got my new pots in on saturday and I changed out the old ones today....and it still does not sound correct to me. Ill explain the entire set-up. Its a HSS, it came with 3 on/off mini toggles. One on each pickup. some later installed a 4th mini toggle as a kill switch. It has 2 tone and 1 volume. The pots I took out are a 500k on volume, a 100k (weird?) on the first tone with a .033 cap and the 2nd tone is a 500k with a .033 cap. I switched them all out to 250k pots. I put a .001 treble bleed cap on the volume and a .05 cap on the 2 tones. I still think it sounds like a tin can! Im stumped! Im thinking about takeing out all the mini toggles and the 2 tone pots and filling the holes w/ dowls. adding a 3 way selector and haveing the middle single just a dummy. so it would just be a 3-way and a volume to the Hum and single.

I will have to check out the guitar to date it. He just told me it was a 59', probably what he was told when he was a kid and never bothered to actually verify that. I really wasn't sure if it was a veneer or actually radiused so that info helps big time. I found a guy with some pretty useful info about removal and installation so Im on the right path. And if all else fails, there is always common sense.

Sometimes I think people dont read very well on here. I know how to remove and replace a fretboard with a flat fret board to neck joint. Done it a few times. I asked for people with experience doing a removal/replace on old Fender where both the fret board and neck have a radius. But thanks for posting the tutorial links. Jehle, I never said I was going to have the neck any where even close to my router. That never even entered my brain doing it that way.....that would be horrible. I was referring to radiusing the new fret board on the top and bottom. And Setch, didnt I say that the guitar is beyond repairing for value? I wouldnt call this an experiment either, its just slightly different than a normal board. So, is there no one on this board that has removed a fretboard on a vintage fender neck where both the fret board and neck are radiused? im just looking to see if there are any known different techniques between the 2 different types of necks. Thanks for the replies though.

I have no experience removing and replacing these old freeboards on Strats. A friend of mine has his first guitar he got which he says is a 1959 Strat. I haven’t bothered to look at the numbers to verify the age but it does have the curved fretbaord on the radiused neck. Sadly in the 80's when he was an Yngwie freak he scalloped the entire thing and now he is kicking himself for it. The guitar is past the point for restoring for value purposes; he just wants to be able to play it again. I searched around a bit but didn’t really find much info about removing these things and replacing them. Is there any one here with experience in this? IF so, could you point toward a tutorial or some tips and tricks? Thanks- **Im thinking the easiest way to replace it is to build a jig so my router can radius the bottom of the board, then Ill have to radius the top with the router flipped around.....

Right on! It does indeed seem like the problems then, good call GodBlessTexas. You're missing out on the midboost, it's a nifty thing How is the guitar unplugged? ← It sounds great unplugged...nice and chunky!

I think Wes has a super easy tutorial on a fret bending jig.... dont remember where I saw it though.

Ill just change all the electronics... It orignally had active and some one one took them out so Im guessing they replaced everything with the incorrect pot values.

I recently got a late 80's Charvel Model 6. It is neck through w/ 24 frets, bound neck and headstock & shark fin inlays w/ HUGE frets and no wear at all. Some one before me installed an after market Schaller trem, Gotoh tuners, and bone nut. I was pretty unhappy with the tone when I first received it. It had a Seymour Duncan hum in the bridge, not sure what model. The sound was pretty "tinny" sounding.. I changed out the bone nut because the string spacing was incorrect, adjusted the truss rod and lowered the action a bit. It was still very tinny sounding. So I changed out the Seymour for one of my favorite hums, a Dimarzio Tone zone. STILL, it sounds like crap.... it has no balls or decent tone. Very "tinny" like a cheap guitar with really crappy pick ups. Ive done everything that I think I could possibly do to it. The action is set-up like a dream, couldn't get any better.. Ive gone over all the wiring and it is fine according to each pick ups manufacturer wire diagrams... I just dont get it! Im starting to think the wood itself is lending it self to sound like crap! Ive never had a problem like this that I couldnt fix...im stumped on this one. Any one have any ideas???? PLEASE!

It has a very Tony Mcalpine Carvin feel to me, again great job.

Nice job...

Ive always just grabbed it with a pair of plyers and ripped it out.

Larger springs have nothing to do with it. Since you changed from 9's to 10's you have to tighten the screws on your claw. Tighten so the claw moves about 1/8 inch closer to the body at first, then a bit more if necessary. When I’m first setting up a floating trem I will tune it a bit different, wind up your strings until the bridge is in the approx. correct position. Start to tune your strings but instead of going e,a,d,g,b,e. Tune both e's, then move in skipping strings etc... This will help with your problem with the bridge tension, saves a bit of time. After this, if you still cant figure it out read this site; http://www.ibanezrules.com/tech/setup/index.htm

Well.......IMO. Looking through his gallery I saw allot of things that would make me definately not want one of his guitars. To me it looks like he rushed the construction of his guitars to have more time to carve them, and I could seriously care less about artsy carvings.

TONE ZONES!!!!!

Dimarzio Tone Zones.

I had this same amp.... I wasn’t too impressed with it. The frequencies that the channels are on just don’t cut thru the mix that much and the lead sounds a bit thin IMO. I have a modded 5150 now and there is no way in hell I will ever go back to one of those JCM900s.

Phil, I have to completely disagree with you, I’ve always felt that wood has the biggest influence on tone. Pickups play a big part but certain woods will always give off certain characteristics.

Wenge is good, my bassist has a wenge kneck on one of his basses. Plays and sounds like a dream

Im pretty sure he was taking new strats and making them look vintage.

I looked around the net a bit and found this: http://woodworker.co.uk/bandsaw.php Look half way down the page and there is a 14" saw with a 1.3 hp motor and 7 1/4" cuttin height for £ 279.00 Those other saws you listed I couldnt find hp ratings on athem and the one I did was only .5 hp. Try and get one over 1 hp.

Byron, I have absolutely no clue about the machines you are able to purchase in the UK, so Id hate to recommend anything for you. That perform doesn’t look half bad and it could work ok for you and be in your budget, I would ask people that are familiar with these products. Make sure the saw you get is very sturdy and at least 12"...good luck.

I would not buy any of those, save your $ and get something a bit more quality.

For me a jointer was a necessity. I was not having very good results with hand planes. I was lucky to find this really nice 8" jointer that was practically brand new for $450. Seriously, for me, I couldn’t even function without it. Trues up neck and body blanks in minutes, instead of the hours it would take me to get a mediocre plained edge with a hand plain. Im sure some people will say different.

I have never been a fan of Zakk, in fact I think the guy is a complete joke! Besides that, this song was just horrible!! His voice sounds like garbage and the harmonies are bland as could be. This is laughable!