demonx

Made a quick binding jig. It works much better than the stew mac one.

I've been too busy to touch this project the last couple days, but this morning while I was waiting for software to install on the workshop computer I fixed the last bit of the top binding. I left this part until last as it's the bit I was most worried about making invisible. I used a heat gun to heat the plastic with my right hand and with my left hand I dropped a bit of weld on into the crack the second I pulled my right hand away, then quickly came back with the right hand, pushing the softened binding into the gap before applying the tape. It has come up pretty good. When I do the finish sanding I'll scrape the binding back a tad so it follows a natural line and doesn't look like it widens, so it should be an invisible repair

Top binding on - still needs a clean up, but it's on.

The top on an acoustic is under a lot of stress which can pop the bracing off, the back and sides don't have this pressure pulling at it, this is why. Think of the neck and strings as a lever, as well as the top having to vibrate consistently, the kerf does not have to match, it just has to hold the top to the sides. The bridge plate does not have to match, but the rest of the top bracing should.

Bad news about the clot, make sure to look after that. May I ask why use Spruce bracing if using a Cedar top? I'm not a "acoustic" guy, but it's my understanding that the bracing should match the top so it moves/expands etc at the same rate. The kerf, back strips etc not as important.

Well, I'm on a PC now looking at the full pics and it still looks like Vic ash/KD Hardwood, I'm guessing it's splintery around the fresh dressed edges as well? What part of Oz are you from? (you should fill out your profile!)

Have just been talking to the guy building the CNC and all the issues that have been holding it up have been overcome and all the mockup parts and wiring have been removed and the final parts are now being assembled with the correct wiring etc. I've been told it's only weeks away now.

Top binding started. I really should have paid attention to the reviews that the elcheapo stew mac binding jig is rubbish, as it is. Thing was wobbling around and not giving a straight line. Will be shopping around for a better binding jig before I do the back. Hopefully a bit of superglue and sanding will make it passable. I managed to file the bunya join so it should be ok, but there's a couple spots in the blackwood that will need a glue and sand, I just have a gut feeling. Fingers crossed it doesn't, but it probably will.

For a neck blank, the more "quartered" it is, the better, but don't read too much into that as there are several massive name companies that have been using non quartered (flat/rift sawn) for decades without issue. Usually if you see two or three piece necks it is because the person gas taken a flat sawn piece, cut and flipped it do the pieces are running as if it was quarter sawn. Just use your own discretion and make sure you have enough meat in the bone to plane it back for the fingerboard surface and still leave enough to carve the heel etc

Looks like KD Hardwood to me, I don't know if that's a term used outside Australia as KD is usually B grade Vic Ash/Tas Oak and those are Aussie timbers so I don't know if the term us universal. Is it oak or Oregon? Too hard to tell on a mobile phone screen as I can't see any detail

Back is finally on and looking good: Top is now in clamps:

The epoxy patch on the back prevented further split, but it was a "L" shaped split and the part I couldn't patch re broke - (I need a form correct to the cutaway shape I'm building to prevent this) so I've had to repair it yet again. It is visible and not as invisible as I'd like. I'm hoping though under clear it might blend away a lot, but I doubt it.

Well you'd be thinking right, Australian Blackwood is our home grown Koa, well, very damn close to it anyway. Similar specs and similar appearance. Even the trees and their leaves and flowers have striking similarities, they are both in in the acacia family.

I have been busy on other builds so this one has been pushed aside for now, however I was spraying clear coats the other day and threw a single coat over an off cut from the back I'm using on the acoustic, I must say I'm impressed how it turned out, especially considering this scrap piece isn't even sanded with exception of a couple passes through the drum sander with 60 grit roll after I originally joined the two pieces Moving onto the neck and gluing the heel block into position: Moving into the back bracing: I couldn't help myself, had to see what it looked like:

More kerf and a repair. The cutaway split a little bit off the block when I accidentally twisted the side, it also split half way down the cutaway. It was a clean split with the grain so I'm hoping its an invisible repair. I've epoxy'd a patch over the inside of the cutaway to help prevent any further damage. The patch is cut from the flat sawn trial sides I bent, so its pre shaped to the same curve which came in handy.

I'm pretty sure a year or two (maybe three?) there was someone here using a small shop press for laminating tops onto bodies, but I cannot remember who. It's something I'm thinking about trying and if there's anyone here using one I'm keen to hear your experiences and feedback on the subject. Cheers Allan

A bit of Kerf.

Some pics of the neck jig would be nice! Which type did you decide on? I'm pretty sure you've skipped posting a few steps here!

The people have spoken:

You assume correct!

So far it's this join that I've been most concerned about, but after a bit of a file and scrape this morning I can finally breath! The current dilemma as I want this in glue by the end of the day - light or dark center strip? I can't decide!

I was getting very frustrated by all the deep throat clamps I've bought for this acoustic piling up on my workbench as they don't fit on my other clamp trolley, so I've built another one out of scraps laying around. I just had to hunt down four casters which were $3.50 ea There's enough space for another twenty or so to squeeze in around the twenty already on there and I'll be adding another part on the side of the same trolley to hold all my sash clamps. I'll most likely turn the unused side into another lot of shelves like I have on my other clamp trolley as it's pretty handy to throw cauls and other blocks etc in ready to grab quickly when doing lams This head block is probably what I have found most tricky so far. Being the way I wanted the cutaway to meet flush with the neck block and taper out on a curve, means the join in that one place is a 3D twist as it has the "C" curve for the cutaway on the top plane, then on the front plane it has the "S" curve of the heel block. Made it tricky to clamp and even though it looks right now, I won't be completely sure until I un clamp tomorrow and file it flush. I think in the future if I continue to use this cutaway/neck join I might make up a 3D clamping block, but it'll have to be an exact negative of the head block. Something for me to think about anyway

More block glue ups:

The sales guy said it was Brazillian Walnut, the guy who typed it up on the computer put African Walnut. I believe its probably African judging by the coloring.

I've been posting about the acoustic a bit lately so I'll share a few pics of some other stuff I've been working on. A Walnut, Rosewood and Maple sandwich: Just got this spalt maple in the post today, looks "ok" I guess: Of course a little acoustic update, the contoured heel block for the cutaway: