henrim
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Everything posted by henrim
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Advice on "Majora Purple" finish
henrim replied to sadclevelandsports's topic in Inlays and Finishing Chat
I guess I could do some guess work with how to achieve the finish you are after, but there are people on this site who know that stuff better. -
Advice on "Majora Purple" finish
henrim replied to sadclevelandsports's topic in Inlays and Finishing Chat
It appears that if you paste the link as rich text, the editor does not recognise it as a link. You can embed links if you paste as plain text. Anyhow, a better option would be to use "Drag images/files..." option under the text editor. Although if the images are not yours I don't think it is a good solution. Anyhow here's those images embedded from the links you provided. " -
That explains it! For some reason I though you were located further up north. Got the continent right though
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Maybe their new CEO didn’t know a plane from a plane? https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Samson_Switchblade
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Looking great! Is it flash in the pictures or do you guys really have sun shining like that this time of year
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Nowhere near sanding but I was in the hardware store today and picked up some Abranet stuff. I first thought about getting discs for random orbital sander but, then I saw this. So far the only non-electric tool I have with a vacuum hose. How uncool is that!
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Elaborating on my previous reply. Why I say straight is the best, is based on assumption that the work is done freehand. If done without any support a radiused block can easily twist and eat too much from the fret ends. But if you build a jig of some sort that keeps a radiused block tangential and straight then a radiused block could work better. In my experience there is so little to correct that a straight block works just fine. If I had to do several necks a day I know I would figure out a better way, though. Although in my thinking there shouldn’t be anything to level if all the previous stages are done perfectly. That is not how it is in the real world but I’m getting closer
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Straight. For reasons you already mentioned.
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It is simply a tool modified for luthier work. It looks like there is also a slot in the upper jaw. Which can be used for measuring the crown height of an uninstalled fret. Features that make quick fretwire readings easier. My experience with digital calipers is that you better always zero them before taking measurements. And measure twice to make sure the measurement is right. But I rather use manual calipers anyway.
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Without saying what I think of making a copy of something that is available from the original manufacturer… oh, I think I said it without saying it. That aside, there many options available that will technically do pretty much the same as the EBMM Modern tremolo. It is a simple floating tremolo so for example Schaller Vintage tremolo could be an option. What comes to looks, there you probably have get creative as I don’t know any model with a cover like in the EBMM bridge. Unless you find a second hand original.
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Yeah, I realize now that the picture doesn’t make much sense if you are not familiar with the tool. Agreed, not the most common one on a luthier’s bench. It worked in the end but a hole saw is not the best tool for long holes as I had to chisel the remaining plug out a few times before I got to the bottom. Now I have all the Swiss cheese work done, and it’s finally time to take some shavings to get the body to final shape. But off to skiing first !
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There’s this old Finnish saying: Konstit on monet, sanoi mummo, kun kissalla pöytää pyyhki. Which is essentially the same as “There’s more than one way to skin a cat”. Both involve cats, although in the Finnish version there is probably less animal cruelty. Or maybe more, I don’t know. There is this old lady who wipes the table with the cat. Anyway I did a hole for the output jack using a tube notcher, because I thought it would be easier to set up the angle than it would be in the drill press. I’m not sure if it was though.
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Unshielded cable pairs are twisted to prevent EMI. Twisting and proper routing can make a huge difference in tube amps. But there you have more concerns like keeping ac and dc wires separated. I don’t know how much difference there really is in pickup wiring. Anyway, I use mostly shielded cable but I do twist the pairs where I use plain wire.
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Looking good. Just sharpen the blade and shave on!
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Trying make sure that intestines fit inside the body before I carve it. Made mount rings for pots and switch. And turned cavity covers.
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Yes, like said a total overkill for a plane sole but this technique is still valid today for machine beds and other surfaces that need high accuracy.
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This appeared in my feed and I found it interesting. Total overkill for a hand plane sole but I’m a sucker for hand scraping metal. A skill I hope to master someday.
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Ok, nice. I was just curious if it really was an option. I'll take your word on it, I have no intention to try unless I really have to.
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Have you done this for a whole guitar body? For small repairs it obviously works but I would imagine it's not the easiest job to brush a large surface evenly with fast drying stuff like nitrocellulose lacquer.
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Yes, I did this time a tiny camber. Maybe couple of tenths or so (mm). Previously that blade was straight (albeit not square) and I had just the corners very slightly radiused. There are many ways to sharpen and people use different angles and methods. I tend to grind my blades to 25° with straight edge and then I sharpen a ~5° micro bevel. With the micro bevel I give the edges a bit more pressure to get a very slight camber. With Tormek sharpening is so fast that I have done some blades without micro bevel but it’s easier to maintain the edge by honing if there is a micro bevel.
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Control cavities.
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Fascinating stuff. That twisted adjuster is a brilliant design, in terms of cost-effectiveness. Simple to make and uses only one piece of material. Not the most elegant solution but does the job just fine. Could it be that they reverted to a simple and cost efficient design during the war time? Don't know, but there is a whole page about lateral adjusters here: https://www.timetestedtools.net/2016/01/26/quickly-identify-your-hand-plane/
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As I was going to plane the top smooth I finally decided to tackle an issue with my smoothing plane. At some point I have managed to sharpen the blade out of square. I haven’t bothered to fix it because I can adjust the angle in the plane. But it has gradually gotten worse and today it was finally time to grind the blade square again. Although I didn’t grind it because it is so cold in the basement. Instead I did it in the upstairs workshop and squared the blade with 180 grit water stone by hand and then the rest with the Tormek. Took some time but now it’s pretty close to perfect again. And yes, I got the top smoothed too.
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I decided that instead of using ferrules I’ll make a brass bar to retain the strings. Mainly because with 10,5 mm string spacing the 10 mm ferrule row look too crowded. I guess I could find smaller ferrules or make them myself but I think I like the bar better on this one. I drilled through holes and chiseled a slot for the bar that doesn’t exist yet. At least I now know what size it’s going to be In the other picture there is my drill press table. It has a sacrificial insert. I just lock the table and drill through the insert, put a m4 bolt in it and use that as a locating pin for two side drilling.
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Left should be the left side of the headstock. Checked their site and I think there has been a mistake and they should do the exchange.
