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henrim

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Everything posted by henrim

  1. henrim
    Ok, nice. I was just curious if it really was an option. I'll take your word on it, I have no intention to try unless I really have to.
  2. henrim
    Have you done this for a whole guitar body? For small repairs it obviously works but I would imagine it's not the easiest job to brush a large surface evenly with fast drying stuff like nitrocellulose lacquer.
  3. henrim
    Yes, I did this time a tiny camber. Maybe couple of tenths or so (mm). Previously that blade was straight (albeit not square) and I had just the corners very slightly radiused. There are many ways to sharpen and people use different angles and methods. I tend to grind my blades to 25° with straight edge and then I sharpen a ~5° micro bevel. With the micro bevel I give the edges a bit more pressure to get a very slight camber. With Tormek sharpening is so fast that I have done some blades without micro bevel but it’s easier to maintain the edge by honing if there is a micro bevel.
  4. henrim
    Control cavities.
  5. henrim
    Fascinating stuff. That twisted adjuster is a brilliant design, in terms of cost-effectiveness. Simple to make and uses only one piece of material. Not the most elegant solution but does the job just fine. Could it be that they reverted to a simple and cost efficient design during the war time? Don't know, but there is a whole page about lateral adjusters here: https://www.timetestedtools.net/2016/01/26/quickly-identify-your-hand-plane/
  6. henrim
    As I was going to plane the top smooth I finally decided to tackle an issue with my smoothing plane. At some point I have managed to sharpen the blade out of square. I haven’t bothered to fix it because I can adjust the angle in the plane. But it has gradually gotten worse and today it was finally time to grind the blade square again. Although I didn’t grind it because it is so cold in the basement. Instead I did it in the upstairs workshop and squared the blade with 180 grit water stone by hand and then the rest with the Tormek. Took some time but now it’s pretty close to perfect again. And yes, I got the top smoothed too.
  7. henrim
    I decided that instead of using ferrules I’ll make a brass bar to retain the strings. Mainly because with 10,5 mm string spacing the 10 mm ferrule row look too crowded. I guess I could find smaller ferrules or make them myself but I think I like the bar better on this one. I drilled through holes and chiseled a slot for the bar that doesn’t exist yet. At least I now know what size it’s going to be In the other picture there is my drill press table. It has a sacrificial insert. I just lock the table and drill through the insert, put a m4 bolt in it and use that as a locating pin for two side drilling.
  8. henrim
    Left should be the left side of the headstock. Checked their site and I think there has been a mistake and they should do the exchange.
  9. henrim
    Fair enough, and the good thing is it’s not a big deal to fix on a guitar sized object.
  10. henrim
    I may be stating the obvious but you make it sound like it is a feature, when it is an avoidable flaw
  11. henrim
    What I forgot to mention is that you don’t necessarily need solvent for the laser transfer. Heat source like clothes iron is what I used to use for PCB transfers when I used laser transfer method. Obviously with wood, especially if it has glue seams, you want to be extra careful not to apply excess heat. And you may want experiment with different print materials. Fine magazine cover style paper works in my experience better than plain paper for heat transfer. One other thing is that print density adjustment can make a huge difference, if your machine allows it. Anyways I think you can likely get much better result with a water decal than laser transfer.
  12. henrim
    I don’t know those products but laser transfers can be done with acetone. I have done them mostly on copper and aluminum. On birch plywood too. Should work on pretty much on any material. But it is a bit of a hit and miss process. Different printers yield different results. I suggest you to experiment some before making a headstock logo.
  13. henrim
    I suppose it is what it is. Uneven. Maybe too thick layers? I have never coated a guitar with wipe-on. I once tried the procedure though, on a batch of test pieces, and found out it’s not my kind of process. No gain over spraying. I was hoping to free my self from spray gun cleaning. But no cigar.
  14. henrim
    I don’t think there’s anyone but you who can tell whether it makes sense or not. If it’s your dream and that’s what you want then go for it. Does a vintage guitar make you a better player? No. Is it so much better instrument than what you already have? Highly unlikely. On the contrary. With a high value vintage instrument you need pay more attention to how you keep it in good shape. It may not be the first choice for daily playing. Just my two cents, if even that valuable.
  15. henrim
    Have you got any link to those pencils? Are they actual pencils or are they more like touch-up markers? Anyway, I think it’s kinda hit and miss to find a readymade matching maple color, as the color can vary a lot depending on how the object was finished and how it was exposed to light.
  16. henrim
    Yeah, the shape is pretty much there, I just need to skim a mm or so. This would be a good time to put strings on, but I haven’t made the bridge yet. On the other hand I think I can finish this neck without strings because the neck profile is same as in my padouk top guitar. Which is a profile I like the best. Skinny but round, if that makes sense
  17. henrim
    Just as I was so proud of myself yesterday, about being able to list next steps in advance, I carved the neck today. Rough carve it is and I need to think about the heel area a bit before carving it.
  18. henrim
    There’s been more playing than building. And when you play, you realize how the guitar you pare playing could be made better. So, before dismantling any existing guitars I thought I should continue with this one instead. After some more fiddling I got the neck in proper alignment and drilled holes for the neck mounting bolts. Next I need to drill holes for the string ferrules and make access holes for the electric stuff. Then I can start shaping the body.
  19. henrim
    Right, you better listen to @ADFinlayson advice. He’s done more binding than I ever will.
  20. henrim
    It sounds like a good idea to me to have the seam there. That way you have the ends of the binding where the most complex curves are, and you can do the bends from two directions. That said, I’m not really the best person to answer questions about bindings as I don’t really do them. I speak from my experience and knowledge about plastics in general. If it is an ABS binding we are talking about here. Although if it was a wood binding, I think I’d like to have the seam there in that case too.
  21. henrim
    Technically I can’t see any real problems. Because of the neck pocket the back binding is a bit trickier to do than the front, I guess. But doable.
  22. henrim
    Ok, good to know. That’s how it goes. Old tools can be a bit like the ship of Theseus. Although the sole in your plane is probably original
  23. henrim
    I’m so used to wet sanding that I never got to try Abranet. One of their factories is about one kilometer away from where I live, so I guess I should support local business and try it out
  24. henrim
    Stanley No. 5 has been made about 150 years now. Although on a quick look they may all look the same, there have been a wide variety of finishes and materials in use. And quality has not always been the same. I’m not deep in to the subject as I’m not a Stanley man myself, but as I have understood they can be dated quite accurately by studying the casting markings and so on. I would start there if I was going to restore the plane. If against all odds, it turned out to be a golden era specimen, I would think twice before proceeding with restoration. If it was from not-so-desirable era, I would just strip all the finish layers and re-coat with whatever clear coat I happened to have in hand. I think it would still make a decent jack plane for fast wood hogging.
  25. henrim
    Yes. Although if you had to move the bridge on that particular guitar, it would be easier to make a new body
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