ADFinlayson

Yes it is as much about the tools to hand as preference. I own a table saw now, so as soon has the hosco table saw blades become available again (I don't think the stewmac blade will fit my saw), I'll be switching my process

On my first couple of builds, I used a fret slot template like that. I cut the slots freehand too, I used a mechanical pencil and the little plastic nib that the lead pokes out of was about the right size to fit perfectly in the notches, maybe try a different pencil.

If I had a £1 for every mistake I made twice, I'd have at least enough for parts for a new build

If some frets aren't in the right place then some frets will sound out of tune, if the slots are on the notches and they're perpendicular to your centre line, they will be spot on.

Looking forward to seeing that

This is my order of operations: 1. Route neck shape/profile 2. Get fretboard blank down to correct thickness 3. Stick fretboard blank to neck 4. Use neck as template and route fretboard flush with neck 5. Radius fretboard 6. Cut fretslots 7. Inlay work 8. Install frets 9. Carve neck I've done this stuff in various orders but I've done it this way for my last 5 or 6 builds and it's the order my most comfortable with because it mitigates risk of the fretboard not gluing on straight, cutting slots is way easier because there is far less wood to saw and I won't have to co

I always tend to start at fret 1 and work my way up because as @curtisa says, inaccuracy becomes more noticeable as you go up the fretboard - as the gap between the frets becomes smaller so does the margin for error, and I find once I've done a couple, I get more into the swing of it. I don't really like miter boxes for exact work because it's more difficult to see the work. As in my video I shared with you before, I find I'm much more accurate if I make a little nick with the saw on each end of the line, then join them up freehand. You can definitely fill in bad slots with superglue and ro

Is that oak you're using for the neck too? Looks lovely

Depends how thick the board is currently vs when youv'e got it at final dimensions, the impact the radius has and the size of your frets. You will very likely have to come back and make the slots slightly deeper at the edges after radius anyway. I would suggest you get the board to final thickenss (5-6mm is a good depth), then slot the board about 0.5mm deeper than the height of your fret tangs. It's a bit scary first time round, but you will soon come to realise that it's easy just time consuming to hand cut slots. That's why I now do it freehand after the board is at final shape - I don't

That makes a lot of sense, I'm still very new to this and haven't really figured out who my target audience is yet. Just a bit frustrating that I've got nearly 500 followers on my facebook page and not one of them wants to buy my guitar

Well I've listed my first For sale guitar (instead of usual commissions) on reverb, ebay, my facebook page, handmate page guitar page on fb, and I still haven't sold it

It's an expensive game! How many of the 36 did you sell?

I think it's time you succumbed like the rest of us and build yourself a workshop mate. No guitar builder should be stuck at home without the ability to build guitars

Thanks chaps, It's been UPS'd to it's new owner who is a PG member, so he might be on soon to tell you all how crap it is.

Lower output = better tone and versatility IMO, they clean up a lot better when you roll off the volume and you cant retain more of the highs if you use a treble bleed. I put a super distortion and liquefier in a build for someone a year or so ago. Can't stand them, a lot like the jb pickups, they just sound like a compressed stereo sound with no middle to my ears. On the other hand I just put a pair of SD vintage blues in a build, not expensive pickups but sound great through my MT15 (All I've got access to during lockdown). I also really rate OX4 pickups, Lots of people on the internet