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chunkielad

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Everything posted by chunkielad

  1. chunkielad
    I refitted the neck (wasn't quite sitting right) and restrung the guitar - re-intonationed (sp?)it and all is well I actually have less of a problem now! They're still alittle further back than i wanted - just a bit of fret buzz to remove and on to the electrics!
  2. chunkielad
    ...and if you do paint you'll have to use an etching primer to grip well enough to the metal - I don't think paint will hold up - maybe anodise it?
  3. chunkielad
    I've considered re-doing the finish anyway to a solid colour - surrently has a black flamed top and black stained mahoganny back with solid black sides. I want to move it but can only do so if I refinish the guitar - let's see. On the one saddle that isn't quite right, we're talking about an 1/16 of a semi tone out here - only hearable by a tuner and someone with absolute perfect pitch - generally it'll play fine. I may just leaveit as is so I can get to play it and start my next project - it's not an issue as such just a bloody pain that I didn't find this out before fitting the brigde.
  4. chunkielad
    Marvellous - I'm not the only one. luckily this bridge will adjust enough but for one string which is close enough for my crappy playing! I'll putup with it seeing as it's my first build - not everything can go 100%!
  5. chunkielad
    Whats that mean? ← The quote should have been then fit at 2X the nut to 12th fret measurement. That makes more sense! So, in future, I should measure nut - 12th fret. Then double it and that's the most foreward I'll need to be with the saddles FULLY toward the nut? I'm using a custom bridge/saddles off ebay http://i5.ebayimg.com/03/i/04/e7/0a/0f_1_b.JPG
  6. chunkielad
    Firstly, it's a bought neck - I should have mentioned that I suppose. Secondly, I put the saddles to about 7/8 of the way forward andthen measured - then fit at 2X the nut to 12th fret measurement.
  7. chunkielad
    OK, I used my brain and checked BEFORE I made the guitar as to where I should put the bridge - I measured nut - 12th fret an d then measured 12th fret to where saddle should be - both the same measurement. Great, fit saddle and string up - set intonation. By golly do i have to have the saddles way back (not quite at th end of the settings) - what went wrong? They are all really far back and I double checked my measurements too. There's about 1/2" different from where it should b to have the saddles pretty central on their adjustment.
  8. chunkielad
    +1 - I use Corel but only because i use it for work. If i didn't, i wouldn't buy it for this purpose - or illustrator for that matter.
  9. chunkielad
    I prefer the light figure myself - looks really nice!
  10. chunkielad
    *PICS* COUGH COUHG *PICS*
  11. chunkielad
    Glad to be of service !- an assett to the board eh? i usually get told to bog off on most boards!
  12. chunkielad
    Cheers - all I did on the finish was rub red mahogany on the back, followed by the black (only one coat of each dye - this gave a nice deep brown) then when dry, rubbed it with a dry cloth to get rid of excess. On the front, i Stained black (one coat- this has a purple hue to it) and lightly sanded so that the grain popped a bit. After the sides were coated 3 times in black, I cleared over. Then more black on the sides and clear etc - until the sides were solid black. The front is actually a flamed English Sycamore veneer but you'd never know as all joins are covered by the blackness - evenin the pickup hole. The control cavity will have a plate over it.
  13. chunkielad
    Yeah it's a great site that I also use a hell of a lot - perfect for any brand logo really - did a coke one last week off there actually!
  14. chunkielad
    looking great fella. Can't wait to see this one done.
  15. chunkielad
    The reason i didn't Floyd it is because my other guitar has a floyd and this was to give me something different - No scratch plate though! The pickup will be straight into the hole and there's a chrome plate going over just the control cavitiy (a bit like on a Tele)
  16. chunkielad
    I'm new to all this but from recently using a veneer and having to fix it with CA after it lifted during finishing, I say go for it - I was doing more finish anyway but I was still careful with it and all was fine.
  17. chunkielad
    Sorry for the lack of updates but i've forgotten to take pics whilst working! DOH! So.... I've made the body and stained it - then laquered so I need to polish still. There's a solid bridge and a single coil (Dean markley) with only a volume and a jack socket on a chrome plate (not got the plate yet). All hardware is chrome - pickup black. The pics are crap as they're from my phone but you should be able to make out the AANJ type thingy, the flame (sort of) on the front and the back is actually brown BUT it looks totally black here - the sides are JET BLACK. Rear AANJ http://www.signworks.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/...m/IMAGE_074.jpg http://www.signworks.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/...m/IMAGE_078.jpg 3/4 view http://www.signworks.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/...m/IMAGE_075.jpg Front http://www.signworks.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/...m/IMAGE_076.jpg
  18. chunkielad
    That's right - the VINYL decal is installed on water and can either be a mist (just to stop initial grab of the glue) or can be a flood of water to float the decal into place. The reason i don't mention acetone is because I wouldn't like to leave it on a finish for very long. You can use meths/turps all day long and not cause a problem. Acetone COULD cause problems. It's quicker but that's not always best.
  19. chunkielad
    It's called wet application and is a very valid method - a pro car guy wouldn't need it - i don't bother even when doing vans the size of a luton! BUT there's nothing wrong with it if you want to have a little 'safety' built in to the application.
  20. chunkielad
    Nothing's perfect mate
  21. chunkielad
    I say leave it as it is - it's nice to see a bit of plain colour within the border - if you do too much it'll make your eyes be unable torest on anything. Looks GREAT as it is mate - Well done!
  22. chunkielad
    A quick tip for something I use a lot (as a signmaker) If you need to know a font and have a picture - try this http://www.myfonts.com/WhatTheFont/ It does a pretty good job of finding most fonts and if it's not an existing font, it will get one that's close.
  23. chunkielad
    If you haven't laquered over it yet, peel away at it with your finger nail. If it breaks up, use a hairdryer NOT A HEAT GUN) to gently warm it and soften the glue. When the vinyl os gone, there may be some glue residue. If there is, put some white spirit or meths on it and give it afew sec to soak - the glue will turn to snot and will be removable with a clean rag. If there's any left then, just repeat. BTW I know this as I'm a sign writer - I do this daily and it's the best way to remove WITHOUT surface damage.
  24. chunkielad
    As a business owner myself, I think this attitude stinks - sorry if i offend but i have to say this. YOUR customer has a problem. He's obviously having communication problems AND you don't seem to care.What does that say to the future potential customers? My ethic would be to get the parts back AT MY EXPENSE and check out what he's saying. ONCE you've checked, you can say whether it's your fault or not. These pics seem to suggest it is! I don't know how long you've been trading but withan attitude like that, i can't see it being much longer. Now, this is only my opinion (to which i am entitled) and may not be in agreement with your work ethic so if i offend, i apologise.
  25. chunkielad
    You know I saw them and didn't look at the pic - i thought it was just an allen nut for a truss rod!
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