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  1. Go to www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/I-3528.html. That should be the wiring for your setup. Strats ROCK!!
  2. WOW!! $115.00! I have been paying $74.95 ea. Now everyone is out of stock. It is hard to get 8 good, quiet preamps in one package for much less than $300.00. That said, there are some thousand-dollar units (Mackie) out there that are not as good as the Behringer. Every once in a while I will see a PreSonus on Ebay but it is Ebay. Don't really want to go there but I did get a good deal on a used set of automotive diagnostic scanners last month. Ebay sometimes ROCKS!!
  3. Sure, you could use it with your Delta as long as you realize you can only run two channels optically. Look at the FocusRite or consider AudioBuddys. 4 of them would give you some flexibility but need a wart-strip all of its own! Audio Buddys ROCK!!
  4. You might want to consider a 27-28" scale 7-string if you still have any concerns about the sound. I don't have a real baritone but my 7-string does a fair job with light .070-.010 strings. It is amazing how much difference 2 1/2" makes in hand position! I need to try a real baritone again to remember how the things sound compared to it. 7-strings used to ROCK!!
  5. Ouch! You are just under the price of a decent 8-channel unit. An M-Audio Octane 8 or a Studio Projects would run about $550.00. A FocusRite Octo or Behringer could run as low as $250.00 but I have heard noisy versions of both. Stay away from Nady, SM or any other $100.00 wonder. In your price range I would either buy 4 Audio Buddys or the FocusRite. Preamps ROCK!!
  6. The little Valve Jrs are a blast once you do the mods suggested by a couple of different sites. Be sure to put an output jack on it for an external 8 ohm cab. That is really where the fun begins. Valve Jrs ROCK!!!!
  7. I hate to reply to my own thread but I got the bridge back on last night and after removing the cauls and clamps I must say I am impressed. After searching the web for two weeks for info on how to finish up this bridge replacement, the results are perfect! I sanded the top area where the bridge goes and mixed the dust with some thinned Devcon clear and spread it. Next day sanded flat and glued the bridge on. Perfect! I am filling that hole in the butt with a jack for a new set of K&K Western Standard pickups. May never use them but they are cheap and they sounded great on a Taylor I tried at the music store. All is well with the world!
  8. Well, no. It puts out two digital high-low signals in a format called quadrature that makes a chip (decade or cascade counter) count up or down. All ones and zeros again. In case you were wondering, it is a very cheap way to make a complex switch arrangement. Very flexible. Ones and zeros ROCK!!!
  9. Those are called rotary encoder switches and they put out a pulse that a chip reads, counts and switches to the next effect up or down depending on what direction you turn it. Very cool once you get used to them. Lots of mixers use them for effect selection and screen jogging. Kinda like a one-direction mouse. Encoders ROCK!!!
  10. My uncle gave me one of those new SOS tuners that look like a guitar pick (they are) and they really work well! You have to be within a couple a steps to really know which way to go but it gets you right on the money FAST! And you can use them in the dark! Planet Waves ROCKS!!
  11. Yea, +1 on the neck first. If you retain any sanity at all after that project, the complete build will be a relative breeze! Repairs ROCK!
  12. That looks like a real challenge! Make sure the bridge and bracing are perfect before you reset the neck. I would hate to see you spend all this effort and find out you aren't done. What bridge is on it? I am in the process of replacing the adjustable bridge on a 67' J-45 with a standard/reverse and bone saddle. Yours probably doesn't have this drawback! It'll be sweet when you are done, fer shur! J-45s ROCK!
  13. I have the new bridge made and ready to glue back on my J-45 (without that adjusting crap) but I don't know where to quit smoothing the top where the bridge sits. I have the old finish carefully scraped to the edges of the new bridge and I have plugged the old adjuster holes and flattened the plugs. What remains is little stripes were the grain of the spruce runs under the bridge. These stripes are .005 wide/deep or less. I really don't know how to fill these. Too small to glue in splinters. Somewhere I read something about drop-filling them with laquer but I am not sure if this is the best way. Also, I have only used hot hide glue about three times and am considering putting this bridge on with original formula Titebond or carpenter's alifatic resin (Elmer's?). Opinions and tips would be MOST appreciated! New bridges ROCK! Hey, another thought just popped out of my head! This is a mid-60s Gibson that originally had a DeArmond soundhole pickup in it(horrible). Since that is gone, I have a hole in the butt of the guitar about 2" from the endpin. Any ideas on something "nifty" to put in this hole? Functional or not, I will consider anything! Thanx again!
  14. Sorry for the delay in getting back to this thread. Work is interfering with pleasure again. I would use denatured alchohol or contact cleaner on the Q-tips. I forgot. The computer age has made stuff like blotter paper a relative oddity. It is just any thick paper like the stuff cheap business cards are made of. Cut it in 1/4" or smaller strips and use like sandpaper between the contacts. No solvent needed. You will be amazed at how much dirt comes off on it! Dirt ROCKS! not!
  15. Luke, you are going to have trouble getting answers to such broad questions. What type and model humbucker? What type and style neck? On what type body? The pots have to be matched to the pickup(s) and control setup you want to end up with. Read some of the tutorials and do some searches until you have all these issues decided. Then we can help. Help ROCKS!
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