guitarchump

Well it has been ages but I though I would give and update for anyone who is interested. Basically my job has been keeping me a little busy and haven't had a lot of time to build, but I have made a little progress. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/thrash/DSC03304.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/thrash/DSC03303.jpg So yeah here are a few pictures. There is still binding to be put on, and then comes the routing for the pickup's and such before I can start the carve. I'd love to hear some feed back. Thanks, Jeff

Well, seeing as the carve would be as deep as half the fretboard thickness in some parts and not carved at others, I don't see it wearing out. I guess it being difficult to see could be a potential issue, maybe some dying in the recesses of the carve for effect ( that is if the fretboard wasn't ebony)? I guess with the carve being that deep though comes the possibility of weakening the frets on either side. I think I may give it a shot on a piece of scrap and see.

Has anyone carved the actual fretboard of a guitar before? I was thinking of a 12th fret carving instead of an inlay, and know you would have to leave enough wood either side of the fret for security. I'm guessing that if you can scallop a fretboard you can carve it. Can anyone see a flaw in my thinking? Well... I guess it would bug some people in terms of playing comfort? But other then that is there any other real issues I'm missing? Thanks, Jeff

Oh the headstock will look like this: Thanks, Jeff

The drawing isn't 100% accurate. It's actually something I drew years ago that I'm reusing. The violin cut is shaped more even. as for the lower horn I think it works well but the crummy outline of the carve/bevel makes it look awkward. I will take a picture of the first guitar trial of this design ( it has been refinished maybe 4 times, every time I seem to mess up some how and have to sand back. Thats why this time I'm going to use Tru-oil or actually by some spray equipment insdead of using crappy spray can colour and Poly clear. I was thinking of binding the guitar and fret board. The Bocote seems to orange for the purplish Santos, which is a shame really seeing as it is so nice. I'm thinking rosewood binding for the guitar fretboard and headstock, and an ebony fretboard with some sort of inlay would be cool as well. The other idea is to get a rosewood fretboard and have wenge (or something dark) for binding and do a nice fretboard inlay. I was thinking some falling oak leaves made from different woods down the neck would be an idea. And thanks for your comments. oh, and yes the headstock will be beveled!

Thanks Travis, To bad I have been working 80 hour weeks this past while and haven't had chance to work on the guitar further. It is a little disappointing, but I guess I can't complain to much seeing as business at work has been good. Anyone have any suggestions? I may as well talk about the build seeing as I most likely wont have time to work on it very much until after Christmas. Thanks, Jeff

You may not like the lack of figure, but the natural Queensland maple in the pictures looks pretty darn nice. If it was up to me I would leave it natural, figure isn't everything in my books. Either way though, nice solid build, looks like some clean work (especially on the fretboard!) I would love to see more of a side view of the carve top it looks very different then the usual carve. I Also like the staggered ferrules and the simple inlay. Amazing first build! ~Jeff

Oh, and thanks for all your earlier reply's, sorry for not getting back to you very quickly. As for the fretboard wood I think the Bocote is just a little to orange in contrast to the purple Santos mahogany. The pictures I just took make everything looks so rough. It was just because the sun was setting and was literally 180 degrees to the wood. It makes the toothed plane marks look deep, but I assure you its a cleaner job then what it is showing. I have also realized my next investment will be a jointer and planer. It would really be nice to mill my own laminates after all this. Thanks for your comments.

Well, I finally started on this build! Work has been crazy so I haven't had much time. But here are a few Progress pictures. Well I was wondering If anyone had any ideas on what wood the wings on the headstock should be? Everything is still in the rough I still need to shape the headstock and drill tuner holes before I attach the wings to the neck. There will be black veneer in between the neck and body wings. The veneer I made isn't completely black all the way through even after being cooked for a few hours. So I think Ive found a method to fix that after the neck carve. Basically just masking off the veneer lines and with a small paint brush wick in some more dye. It seems to have worked well on a scrap and hasn't bled through into the other woods. Oh, I have also decided that lace wood is a @%#^! to work with. It cuts well, it is actually stronger quartersawn then I ever expected, and it is not to heavy. BUT! Ive had about 100 slivers from the damn wood! One of then went through my finger about an inch and about 3/16ths deep, took hours to remove. Time to where gloves when working with it in the rough. Anyways enough of my rant. Any recommendations on the headstock wings, or if I should make this a carve top, or just bevel the edges? Thanks,

I'm Finally back after about Two years here. Ive been looking around recently and I have got the spark to build again, now that I have a shop. I recognize a few people from a few years back, and hopefully everyone is willing to help me get back into the groove of things. Anyways... I just got back from the local mill/hardwood supplier/store and bought a few things. I was actually surprised that it only cost me $115CAN and the only decent supplier here is usually rather expensive. The design of the guitar I am about to build is the same as one I started 2 years ago (and am still in the process of finishing for the 20th time). A few of the boards have the outline of one of the wings in chalk if you were interested in the shape. So here are some pictures of the wood. (The woods are: Maple, curly Maple(neck lam),Figured Bubinga (necklam), Bicote, Zebrano (with some spalt), figured Santos Mahogany, Jatoba, Lacewood) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/thrash/DSC01697.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/thrash/DSC01683.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/thrash/DSC01680.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/thrash/DSC01684.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/thrash/DSC01690.jpg Tomorrow I will start selecting wood for the guitar. At the moment I'm thinking Zebrano top, mahogany back, lacewood/maple neck in some configuration. Hopefully I will have more pictures and progress soon. Thanks. (by the way is it possible to get my screen name changed?)

Hey, I'm in London Ontario for school, If only i had a car.... And time to actually build guitars :S. I wish i didn't have to pass up the offer.

I have this very strong urge to hack his site, but I know i'm better then that. Hopefully this guy has what is coming for him. The funny thing is if someone hacked his site he really couldn't do much about it, seeing as bringing this legal matter to the stage would inadvertently involve his sites legal infractions. People like him have no respect for personal property. Through Draks words of infinite wisdom I will repeat -Jeff

I was shooting the finish in my garage with the doors open but i didn't have enough light. So i hung the guitar from my basketball net and sprayed out side. A really bad decision on my part. Funny thing was the finish is poly. Should poly even gas out like that? Anyways I think ill just be wet sanding a fare bit and hopefully have this finnished by friday. Thank god for poly drying to full hardness in 24 hours. It's not like I havent finnished a guitar before, its just that nothing like this has happened to me. I think the heat of summer creates way more problems then humidity over here. Its anouying when your in the shade and the paint drys before it even hits the guitar. I was thinking If people use heat lamps on guitars then why not the sun... bad idea. - Jeff

Ha typo sorry.

That may be the answer seeing as the guitar is black and it was 30 degrees out today. Ill just spray inside the garage with the doors open next time so the sun doesnt bake the paint.

Well i was out on my driveway applying my first coat of clear. Everything went great a few pin holes but nothing to bad. Because everything went great I left it out side to dry for 3 or so hours. When I came back I had about ten 5mm to 2 inch balloons of paint coming off in random areas! My first reaction was *** did i do wrong, But on closer inspection the areas on which they were actually attached were no bigger then half a cm. I have No idea if this has happened to anyone else but it was actually very amusing. The paint and clear is compatable and the finish is not lifting at all around the base of the bubble after i knocked them down. Im guessing I may have not removed all the soap from level sanding the black. a very very small amount of soap residue could be the only thing i can think of because i went over with a tack cloth to make sure all the dust was removed. I think the heat out side my have caused a problem I had to spray around 6-8 inches from the surface instead of around 10-12 as usual because I could see the paint was drying before it hit the guitar (grey hazy rough finish was being formed). I was Just wondering if anyone has had this happen to them before and if they know what could have caused it. It really isn't a big problem but it would be great to avoid it in the future. I would rather have this then some pesky blushing or pin holes. - Jeff

The engraving idea is cool but i dont really wanna put anouther veneer over the explorers head stock. Good ideas tho. I think i may have to use the decal idea the inlay will take to long for my time frame. good thing poly dryies really fast! I may be able to finnish this guitar and take it with me to London -Jeff Sinclair

Anyone have any sugestions on if i should do a decal for the headstock or a pearl inlay? and if a pearl inlay how would you go about masking it for finnish. Thanks -Jeff Sinclair

~ New Update ~ Progress pictures. Explorer http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/thrash/14.jpg Metal Guitar ( Fenrir ) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/thrash/15.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/thrash/12.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/thrash/11.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v179/thrash/16.jpg Well Im about to start preping the Metal guitar for paint. Im going black with chrome hardware. The new locking TOM stewmac bridges look great. The explorer may have to wait a few months seeing as i dont even have a case for it to go into iwhen i leave for london ontario. Hopefully spray can poly will be be dry enough to ship the guitar over on the 25th if i get started in the next few days. Thanks -Jeff Sinclair

~ Small Update Before A Large One Tomorrow ~ I have just had enough time recently to get back to these guitars. I will be moving to london ontario on the 25th for college and will have to put building on hold. I will start spraying finnish on the non-explorer guitar in the next few days. The explorer may have to wait untill christmas seeing as the neck still needs final shaping. Hopefully people will still be interested then haha. Well ill have updated pictures tonite or tomorrow. Hope you will like the progess. - Jeff Sinclair

You could go the fast way and drill a 3/4 inch hole where the router hole is. Buy a hardwood dowel and make a small plug, glue into place, let it dry, then plane and sand it flat. I think it would be the easiest way, just my 2 cents. - Jeff

The way I would do It is rough cut the shape with aviation tin snips or the like. Then make a wooden template and double stick tape the metal to it. Then use the wooden template as a guide to sand the edges fulsh with proper metal gard sandpaper. Even better if you have a sanding drum attachment with a bearing for your drill press you could use that. I have the stewmac one and i make my own sanding tubes for it. Or if you have a jewlars saw you could use that. -Jeff

DEAD SEXY! I love the colour of the stain, as well that was a great buff out job. Cheers -Jeff

-Make some cork covered claws that spread the weight evenly across the board. Make sure your gluing surface on the neck is level and has no twist to it. -Dont be afraid to remove the fretboard if things are going wrong. Much easier to remove on when the glue is wet then it is when its dry. -Do a dry fit, use some double stick tape and tape the board down. Get a level and make sure the board is flat, and if it isnt make sure there is enough room to remove the un leavel areas when it has been glued on. Just my 2 cents. Jeff

Good work i cant wait to see how the finnish looks with the satin neck and the glossy guitar together . I think If it looks good I may have to try that some time. Looks great! Jeff