Technology4Musicians

Thanks guys, and thank to everybody who has voted for me. It is a honour for me finally win the GOTM. I build my first guitar almost ten years ago after have discovered this amazing place.

Thank You all! 

I want to submit the third of three prototypes I made. This is the last one, then I promise you I will not bother you for a while 

Here are the specs

name: (H)851-6T
scale length: 26"- 25.5"
number of strings: 6
fingerboard wood: ebony
number of frets: 22 with MOP dot
neck wood: 5 piece laminated padauk/quilted maple/rosewood/quilted maple/padauk
body wood: laminated maple /padauk/zebrano/padauk
top wood: zebrano / padauk with black epoxy resin binding
neck pu: Seymour Duncan '59
bridge pu: Seymour Duncan JB
nut: BLACK Technology for Musicians (H)Nuts
bridge: BLACK Technology for Musicians (H)T Tremolo (new version with micro ball bearings) 

This is my thread

Here are some pics:

Hope You like it.

www.technologyformusicians.com

www.facebook.com/technologyformusicians

You can do it @Prostheta. I've sold many tremolos to customers who used them on regular guitars by using the knobs as fine tuners. They're extremely precise and now, with ball bearings, they're also ultra smooth.

Hi to everybody. Nice to hear you like them @Pariahrob.  I have recently redesigned my saddle by substiting the teflon washers with micro ball bearings and changing the gear ratio. I have also rounded the upper part of the saddle for a more ergonimic shape. I make the same modifications also for the bass saddles.

There are no more coin slots 'cause they are not necessary.

New year, new guitar. Hope it can be more lucky than her seven strings sister I posted the last month..

This is one of the three prototypes I made hence do not force me to propose the third one too 

Here are the specs

• name: (H)851-6S
• scale length: 25.5"
• number of strings: 6
• fingerboard wood: rosewood
• number of frets: 22 with MOP dot
• neck wood: 5 piece laminated padauk/quilted maple/rosewood/quilted maple/padauk
• body wood: poplar
• top wood: quilted poplar
• neck pu: Seymour Duncan Jazz
• bridge pu: Seymour Duncan JB
• nut: CHROME Technology for Musicians (H)Nuts
• bridge: CHROME Technology for Musicians (H)S single bridge saddles (new version with micro ball bearings) 

This is my thread

Here are some pics:

Hope You like it.

www.technologyformusicians.com

www.facebook.com/technologyformusicians

Ciao,

Alberto

If you take a look to the three guitars I've posted I have realized three custom baseplate for our nuts, 'cause I used traditional double action truss rod (I could not find Music Man style truss rod with spoke wheel).

Obviously I can't produce this baseplate in 6/7/8/9... version, straight or angled in different degrees for different scale length, in chrome, black and gold finish. It would be impossible have them in stock or produce them singularly under request.

Hence my suggest is to use truss rods with spoke wheel where is possibile, or glue the single baseplate above the truss rod hole access with epoxy. 

Personally I bought 5 truss rods with spoke wheel for my next builds...

PS: nice job with the baseplate.

PPS: From the fretboard inlay I realized only now who you are... You build great guitars Andrew. 

About two years are passed from my last build. During this time I concentrated on developing my hardware until last release about one month ago. Meantime I have worked into my own guitar design, changing some details from my last build, such as lower horn shape and jack position and make some tries by using or not zero fret to understand which is the best option in my opinion.

Probably this time I'm really close, except some minor technical details, to the final version of my own design.

I've build three different prototype versions and I want to give a chance this month to this seven strings,.

Here are the specs

• name: (H)851-7S
• scale length: 26.5" - 25.5"
• number of strings: 7
• fingerboard wood: ziricote
• number of frets: 22 with abalone dot
• neck wood: 5 piece laminated padauk/quilted maple/rosewood/quilted maple/padauk
• body wood: maple / zebrano
• top wood: quilted poplar
• neck pu: Di Marzio Liquifier 7
• bridge pu: Di Marzio Blaze 7
• nut: GOLD Technology for Musicians (H)Nuts
• bridge: GOLD Technology for Musicians (H)S single bridge saddles (new version with micro ball bearings) 

This is my thread

Here are some pics:

Hope You like it.

www.technologyformusicians.com

www.facebook.com/technologyformusicians

Ciao,

Alberto

And this was the final result....

As wood selection for bodies I opted for:

• six strings with standard scale: poplar back, figured poplar top.
• six strings with multiscale: maple, padauk, zebrano and padauk
• seven strings with multiscale: maple, zebrano, figured poplar

Here are the guitars unfinished with their necks. I have no good pics for the bodies making process....

But something has gone wrong... 

Here is one neck from front side, ready for the truss rod installation.

This is the back view

Here is a special jig I made for gluing the fretboard. I use some non stick film to avoid the glue flows onto the neck....

Here I am again...

A lot of time is passed from my last post. During this time I have developed my hardware until last release about one month ago and I have worked into my own guitar design, changing some details from my last build and developing three prototypes for the same model:

one six strings standard 25,5" scale length with fixed single bridge saddles

one six strings multiscale 26" - 25,5", with tremolo

one seven strings multiscale 26,5" - 25,5" with fixed single bridge saddles

Here were some laminated necks I used...

I imagine most people would view an 8 string multiscale to be best at 27" to 28" on the bass side. I personally don't like the sound of the high-E when tuned to pitch at scale lengths above 25.5" as it starts to get a brittle and piercing quality, so maybe use your own experiences/ears/hands with "regular" guitars as a guide to deciding on your treble scale length.

I've owned several guitars in the past, mainly Jackson and Charvel. Every of them had 25.5" scale length. I remember my brother had a Jackson Fusion model, with shorter scale (24.75") and it was super confortable.

So i think to use that scale length for the higher strings. The perpendicular fret will be at the 10th.

Some laminated necks for next builds.

I'm drawing the 6,7,8 multiscale versions of my headless guitar.
What do you think about the best scale to use for each of them?

I thinked:
6 strings - 26"-24.75"
7 strings - 26.5"-24.75"
8 strings - ???

what do you think about it?

The only critique I have is the read strap pin looks like it would interfere playing seated in a Classical position. Switch to a recessed strap lock, and you've got a totally winner.

Ray

I can't judge my own build so I try to comment the others. Nothing to say about craftmanship. All builds are really awesome. I can only express an opinion based on my personal taste.

killemall - that neck is wonderful. I don't like the wood choice for the top. Excellent quality. It's a great personal interpretation of a classic but I've never been in love with explorer.

Wix - I love teles and 2HB is my favourite combo. Photos probably do not do justice. It's a great and well built guitar but maybe not too special in this contest.

bigdguitars - awesome execution. Incredible attention to details. I don't like too much laminate guitars: this is the only objection that I can do.

demonx - fantastic. I'm a huge fan of jackson style guitars and those with one pickup in particular. This is probably the one among other five that I would to play. The only thing that I don't like is the kahler bridge: too heavy and massive.

RAD - as I said earlier I love teles. It's very difficult to make an original version of it. You've done it. There is something in your body design that don't convenced me at 100% but that reverse headstock is simply amazing.

Same issue for me too. Finishing is very important. It's the first thing we think a customer will look at, 'cause probably is the first thing we look at when we are evaluating a guitar.

Unfortunately finishing is the last step of a build... No more chances to repair if something goes wrong.

It's true that there are €100 guitars at the shop that have a perfect finish but it's also true that they have thousands of build flaws. We are speaking about industrial products. They have tools, machineries and employees that make the same thing every day.

If you make two guitars, same model, same timbers, same finishes, they're surely different from each other. This is the main difference between a luthier and a factory.

My brother is a professional luthier: he builds violins and cellos. Classical liuthery is fairly different. Customers choose a violin for its sound quality and privilege this aspect against finishing. I've seen €20K violins with very raw finish but customers seem to ignore it.

You're a very talented luthier and it's with builds like yours that people, me too, look at this forum to approach to guitar liuthery.

Ciao,

Alberto

Name: H851

Specs:

body: poplar

top: carved flamed poplar

neck: flamed maple

fingerboard: rosewood, compound radiused 12"-16"

pickups: Seymour Duncan JB (bridge) & Seymour Duncan Jazz (Neck)

bridge: Technology4Musicians (H)S Bridge

nut: Technology4Musicians (H)Nuts

weight: 2600 gr (5.73 lbs)

Here is the link of full thread:

Some better pics...

Nice work. I like it.

Just so everyone knows Alberto's hardware is beautiful and well made.

Thank you Brett!

My hardware here is known primarily thanks to you. Soon expect to see some of your new headless.

Finally I've finished it.

Here are some pics. I'll post some better pics as soon as I can.

Here is a comparrison with my MusicMan Axis. My purpose was to build a compact guitar. I think I have reached my goal. I'm really satisfied.

There some details which I think I'll change in my next build. I'm evaluating to stretch the lower horn in order to give a better grip when you play it sitting down.

Also the jack will be probably repositioned. A straight jack could annoy if you play sitting down in classical way. No problem instead with L jacks.

For those that don't know this appears to be the same guy out of Italy that RestoAD gets his headless hardware from.

Chris

Yes I am. Brett got his headless and multiscale hardware from me.

And why all the complex designing only to use a single action truss rod?

However, I bought 4 new truss rod, two singles and two doubles for the next build.