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Bionic Machinist

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Everything posted by Bionic Machinist

  1. Bionic Machinist
    Planed the neck angle yesterday, and got some of the top carved today. BM
  2. Bionic Machinist
    Thanks guys So I got the truss rod slot routed out today. Also got the re-carve routed on the body. The top is only .500" thick.
  3. Bionic Machinist
    I might just hit you up for some parts. Ill email you a list.
  4. Bionic Machinist
    Got an update for you all. Got the top bookmatched, cut, glued, and trimmed up. Here's how the veneering looks now with the top glued down. I like it a lot. Got the Fret board all laid out and ready for slotting. Also got the neck Scarfed and glued. And together now for a look ahead. BM
  5. Bionic Machinist
    Yep I was originally going to use the single bridges your using with the Kahler cam behind it. like you just said. we talked about it in the bridge build post as well. It will make it universal. BM
  6. Bionic Machinist
    It will all make sense when you see it together. At least I hope it does. :croudwaits
  7. Bionic Machinist
    Trimmed up and rough sanded to shape. Ready for top. mock up
  8. Bionic Machinist
    Heres what i have so far. Rough cut body blank, and glued veneers
  9. Bionic Machinist
    Started my multi scale build. Wood selection Wenge body - padauk and stained black maple veneers Top curly maple Padauk Neck Gaboon Ebony Fingerboard
  10. Bionic Machinist
    I don't know if you've played a multi scale before but, I think your going to find it rely weird to play with the perp at the 16th fret. For the best ergonomics the perp fret should be closer to the nut. Usually around the 3rd - 7th fret. BM
  11. Bionic Machinist
    The channel under the saddles for the grub screws is a good idea. never used a kahler before so I wasn't sure if the saddles would move around when playing. the channels would prevent that. I'm not going to thin down the saddles behind the grub screws though. The reason for that is the length of the saddles and thinning them down would make them to weak in my opinion. BM
  12. Bionic Machinist
    What might that be? Looks like a fancy Bong to me.
  13. Bionic Machinist
    Using 27" - 25" scale then ghats with the 5th fret as the perp.
  14. Bionic Machinist
    K I got all the machining finished up for now and just got some polishing left to do. Then I have to harden it and send it out for chrome or anodizing. If I anodize it I'm not sure what color to do it. Here's how it looks. BM
  15. Bionic Machinist
    Thanks piercefield I was just doing this as a test to see if I could machine all the parts manually. Wasn't thinking of the future at all. I will be changing the design for the future to make it a 2 piece bridge so it can be used on any Multi scale length and perp fret desired. Thanks been a lot of mind numbing hours with calculators and edge finders on the mill to insure it's perfect. Now I want to make it out of Brass.
  16. Bionic Machinist
    Got the 1 saddle extension made and polished up this morning. I installed it to see how it looks. What do you all think. BM
  17. Bionic Machinist
    Thank you.
  18. Bionic Machinist
    Very busy at work these days but still moving along with the bridge. I've finished the Bridge base and started polishing it. So seeing I am waiting on parts for the bridge to show up still I mocked it up with the cam from the Kahler and the saddles too. I just have to start and finish the saddle extensions but this pick gives you the idea of how it's going to look. BM
  19. Bionic Machinist
    I'm using the Kahler for measurements, but I'm not styling it the same. Got some good news at work today. they are giving Me and the other Machinist $25,000 for a new mill and surface grinder. happy days are coming. We're looking at a Mill power, for CNC work. Sweet.
  20. Bionic Machinist
    You can get those at Mcmaster carr as well.
  21. Bionic Machinist
    Started the top section of the cam today. I got a lot done on it too, doesn't look like it but Machining is all about setup. It takes up so much time the cutting is fast.
  22. Bionic Machinist
    The best way to add a Radius to any material. is with a corner round bit / or as I call it a radius bit. looks like this. Your bridge looks nice.
  23. Bionic Machinist
    K didn't get a lot done, but I finished the bridge base and the contouring as well. Turned the set screws for the the cams bearing pivot point to size. Tomorrow I'm starting the top section of the cam. Anyhow here's what I got for pics. More tomorrow. BM
  24. Bionic Machinist
    So like I mentioned in my earlier post there was a rush job that came up today. So I lost the use of myMill and Lathe to another Machinist who need it for that job. So I was using the Knee Mill in our other shop. Anyways the job I was working on took me 8 hours just to get it setup to start. hers some pics of it. This is what I keep tapped up on the Cabinet for the mill and Lathe. Till tomorrow then. BM
  25. Bionic Machinist
    Ok here's where i got to today. I didn't get a lot done, do to a rush job that came in. Here you can see the KAHLER cam sitting on the clamp and mine in the clamp I finished milling the spring return cavity, and setting up for the slot. Here it is finished and you can see the radius I added to the cam section earlier. Bottom shot. This is with it mounted to the bridge upside down. And finally with the top section of the KAHLER cam sitting on top of my bottom section.
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