jbkim

It should probably also be noted that there are different types: on-on, on-off-on and on-on-on, for example.

Would this help? http://www.botsandbytes.com/Electronics/switches.htm

Testosterone poisoning.

I thought it was about making cole slaw.

Welcome to the forum, stratovarius! Those PRS style kits seem to be popular around here . Here are a couple in recent memory that you might want to check out while you wait for Brian to reply. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...?showtopic=5514 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...indpost&p=69246

I was going to suggest naptha... but I did a quick search to corroborate http://www.shopsmithhandson.com/archives/j.../ask_smitty.htm Search down for "Removing oil stains from wood"

What are you wearing?

Wire it in series to the speakers?

Guitar! Heal thy-self! Hallelujah!

It's an A add9 #11th second inversion .

e |-7-5--4--2--0--0--0--0----| b |-5-3--7--5--6--3--4--2----| g |-6-5--6--4--5--3--6--4----| d |-6-5--6--4--5--3--6--4----| a |-0-0--0--0--0--0--0--0----| E |--------------------------| More Holdsworth!

BIG stretch! 1st finger on 1st string, 2nd finger on 2nd string, 3rd finger on 4th string and pinky on 3rd string.

e |-2----| b |-6----| g |-8----| d |-8----| a |------| E |------| Holdsworth, baby!

Hmm... my knowledge of things is from the 80's so there might be newer technologies . There used to be things called "Power Attenuators." The "Sholz Power Soak" comes to mind (there might be newer modern equivalents.) You'd use one of these between your power out and your speakers so there's no modification of the head. This'd allow you to crank the power amp section of your amp without being too loud. I should also ask, what kind of guitar are you plugging into it? Humbuckers, single coils? You might need hotter pickups to overdrive the pre-amp.

I guess you can make the scale a little bit longer if you build it yourself .

See ya! By the way, who are you?

Aw, come on! Where's that adventurous spirit? I think this is entirely doable. I had a similar experience when I was 16... but just the nut came off in my case (that's why I asked my original question.) I pulled off the first fret, used a utility knife to carefully cut down through the fretboard in the fret slot, down to the neck (the guy in the article used a dremel tool for this task.) I didn't know about steaming back then so I just chiseled that section off . I then made the repair and glued the fretboard section back on. I even lucked out being able to reuse the fret! If I were to do this now with what I've learned here, I'd be sure to use masking tape (which I didn't back then) to protect what surfaces I could and use steam: http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/prremoval.htm If you haven't already, peruse the main PG site's other tutorials. You might find other info that might be salient to this project. As for cost for a "pro" to do... hmm, it might be pretty expensive compared to the value of the guitar. If you love this guitar and it has great sentimental value, then go for it! But from my searching around for "ESP EX-250" they seem to be discontinued and have been sold in clearance for $160.99. For the price of a pro repair, you can probably buy a whole new neck. You might want to do this to get the guitar up and playable, then try the above repair yourself on the ESP neck at your leisure (you can re-use the new neck for a later project.) I don't know... just some thoughts . You know, last thought, if the guitar is still playable as is, you might want to just leave it alone!

From that article I posted above, the Fender had the anchor at the nut end so he didn't need to remove too many frets. I'm not familiar with the ESP EX-250 but from your description I gonna guess the anchor is at the butt end of the neck. You probably have to remove at least one fret and steam off a bit of the fingerboard (maybe 20th fret up?)

You mean like a Zakk Wyld? This old thread might help: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...?showtopic=1767

It sounds like the truss rod came out of it's anchor. Hmm... you might have to go as far as removing the fretboard to repair... but wait a couple of days for others to respond. They might have easier solutions . Edit: This site is linked from the PG mother site: http://www.guitarrepairshop.com/repairtrussrod.html

The entire truss rod came out or just the nut at the end (where you put the allen wrench?)

Sure, thank Scott when he posts the info but ignore me when I posted it .

Remember them from the 80's? These seem to have made a comeback and have a community here (with soundclips, pics, etc.) : http://www.largesound.com/ It looks like it'd be fun to make. The silicon rubber strings are low tension so it needn't a truss rod. Bridge/piezo electronics might be hard .

Send e-mail to customerservice@jimdunlop.com and ask about dealers that carry the item you want.