2.5itim
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Everything posted by 2.5itim
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I've ordered a nut for my build and I just wanted to know if y'all think the height will work. My fretboard is 12* radius, 43mm width at end of 1st fret, fretboard thickness is .220" and fret wire is .055 tall. Nut is 12* radius, 43mm long, .312" height in the middle and .280 height at the high e. So the fret height is .275 and the bottom of the high e slot is .265 in my head I just can't see this working at all, am I wrong?
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I got a bit done today and it's actually starting to look like a guitar!! I'm really happy with the neck carve, it's a little bit thinner than my ibanez wizard necks and the same width as prs wide/thin neck, it feels really nice in the hands now I just need to finish sand it. I also got the neck pocket cut out, I made it a little bit wider than the neck to leave room for the finish laquer. Question regarding drilling the holes to attach the neck to the body, do y'all drill out the holes on the body then put the neck back in, mark where the holes line up and then drill a pilot hole for the screws? Next I need to figure out my bridge location and drill out my thru holes, do y'all screw the bridge screws right into the body or do you put in a metal insert of some sort? Idk if I really like the idea of just dcrewing it into the wood.
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Haha she's usually pretty good about my projects as long as I don't go and spend all our money on them lol. I was able to get quit a bit done tonight, after looking at the headstock template that I made the other day for an extremely long time I came to the conclusion that I hated it. So I re drew it because I needed to make it wider and I like it a whole lot more, it just looked off to me to begin with and I think it's because it was to narrow!
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I have made a jig that looks a lot like that but I think my problem is in my clamping. That's the only thing I can think of, my mating surfaces are just about perfect but the ends are always slightly crooked.
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If I do that I'm probably gonna be forced to start another build, you're really not helping me out with the missus here haha. She's ok with me starting more but just not simultaneously.
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@psikoT Woah woah woah, a couple weeks? Haha I'm gonna need to find some patience real soon. I think I will go ahead and carve the neck first but man idk if I could wait another 2 weeks. The refinish of my ibanez is having to sit for a few weeks to let the nitro cure and even that is killing me and I even have another guitar to fiddle with. If I let this one sit for a couple weeks and I don't have another guitar to mess with I might loose my mind. Lol
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@Original I took a closer look, that doesn't look to terribly hard! I think the biggest obstacle I have to over come is doing my scarf joints in the neck, with doing them in the headstock like I have been I can plane out any slight gap I have at the ends when I thickness my headstock but with having that same gap in the neck I would pretty much be screwed. I need to just designate a weekend and do nothing but scarf joints over and over again to try and get them down right.
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Im sorry for all of the questions I've had this far and I really appreciate all of the help that I've been given from all of you!!
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Pro, I totally understand what you are saying about to much glue, I have a huge problem of really globing it on so I will try to watch this for now on. I figured there were a whole bunch of nails left in necks and with the screw up I had with the truss rod slot and trying to come up with a fix for that, the nails were probably the least of my worries yesterday lol. But lesson learned and try not to do it again next time haha! im gonna do some routing on the neck tonight and try to get the neck tapered down, headstock shaped and heel ready to make a neck pocket template. Do y'all usually radius fretboards after you carve the neck or before? I was thinking after would be easiest because I would still have a flat surface to clamp to my table.
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Thanks man, I will keep that in my head for the next time I have to do this. What I ended up doing was cutting the finish nail 3mm long and hammering it into the neck in the middle of the first and 17th frets, lining up my fretboard where I needed it on the neck and applying pressure on top of the nails, that left a divot in my fret board and I drilled a hole in the bottom of the board about 1-2 mm deep then was able to locate and glue it up. Only downside to this is now I'm gonna have 2 short nails left in my neck but no one will ever know except me and y'all who read this lol.
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Dude, you're a life saver! That worked perfectly. I did have a pretty major screw up this evening, I remeasured my truss rod slot and for some reason it was .01 shallow in the middle so I recut it. When I recut it I screwed up and cut my slot wider so the truss rod literally fell in the slot. I thought I was screwed and started thinking about what to do, I remembered I had some .023 walnut veneer so I stuffed it next to the truss rod and now it's super tight.
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Dang, I wish I would have saw this an hour ago! I cut the taper in the fret board and now can't figure out how I'm gonna make sure I keep it where I want it while glueing. There is a beetle hole around the 16th fret that I'm planning on putting a finishing nail thru but I don't know how I'm gonna keep it located on the nut end, I was kind of thinking about putting a finishing nail thru the first fret and then draw black around it before I finish it to make it look like a beetle hole. Does anyone have any suggestions? Maybe @curtisa I know you said you do it this way.
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I mean I guess .01 inches really isn't much, (.254mm for folks across the pond, about the same thickness as 3 pieces of notebook paper) but when I'm use to holding +/- .0005" it just seems like a mile.
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Yeah that's where I'm getting confused, there's only about 4 inches that sits slightly above the neck and the rest sits flush. Honestly my tight tolerance mindset is probably set into my head and this probably even a big deal but I just wanted to make sure! Maybe my rod is bowed just slightly and I can't tell from looking down it. The way I think about it is if the slot is the exact same measurement all the way down the board then the rod should fit in exactly level across the length of the board and if it doesn't then the pressure from gluing on the fretboard should push the rod down level In the middle.
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Unfortunately I am computer illiterate, I'm probably the only person under 30 that has never even owned a computer lol. The only reason that I have any use for them is for work on the cnc's so the extent of my knowledge ends at g&m code. That said I could probably have my engineer here at work draw them up for me in cad but I was just planning on doing the ole pencil paper technique. So with what you said about the truss rod my route should be fine and the fretboard should get everything in there straight? Im gonna put a clamp on the rod today and see if it takes very much pressure to get it down level with the neck.
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Also, my fretboard template should be here sometime today so I should be able to get my fretboard slotted, tapered and glued up sometime over the next few days depending on how my work schedule goes with the second job. One question I do have regarding my truss rod, my route is exactly .377 deep all the way down but my truss rod protrudes the top of the slot by about .01 in the middle, both ends are below the top. I made sure that there is no bow in my truss rod, so should I route my slot deeper there in the middle or should I just let the fretboard push the rod in when I clamp it up for gluing?
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That's one thing that has always bothered me with some other guitars I've owned is when the strings don't run straight from the nut to the tuner so I made sure they did by measuring out a nut, drew my lines straight and then drew the headstock to suit. Ohhh thank you for that, I wasn't even thinking about the string not lining up in the middle of the post! I may actually need to make the headstock a little wider so I can measure that out and move them over.
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I'm having a really hard time coming up with a headstock for this thing, I definitely want a 4x2 and this is the best I've been able to come up with so far. So, how do y'all feel about this design? Give me some insight please!!
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I really like the scarf joint!! I need to figure out how y'all do these laminated scarfs, I have a hard enough time just gluing up regular scarf joint!!
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Man, this really looks great! I've been wanting to do an acoustic pretty bad but I think I've kinda psyched myself out on the subject. Who knows maybe after I finish the electric I'm working on now and the 3 that I have coming up soon I will give it a try. Anyways, awesome work man! That varnish really made the back and sides pop!!
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Dang, I guess I've just always gotten lucky that I didn't split them.
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I just find that really strange because all of my guitars I've ever had I've been able to slip it in from the side. I'm guessing because most everything I've ever owned that was bolt on necks were ibanez all access neck joints and there's not much wood on the treble side of the cavity. Well alright then I'll route the cavity out with the taper and slide it in from the top side.
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On this neck from the back right screw hole to the front right screw hole there is .05" of taper, on the cavity I can only measure 1" of the length but just in that one inch there's .012 of taper. I guess maybe I'll have to cut the neck and cavity at a taper and then hope I can fit the neck in by pushing it from the top instead of from the front.
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I'm gonna take my ibanez apart again and remeasure tonight. I measured the neck heel but I didn't measure the pocket, the only way I could see this working is if the neck pocket wasn't tapered and the neck is. But then I would think it would fit really loose.
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That is a great idea with using the fretboard as a template for the neck, I was trying to think about how I was going to make a neck template but if I do that I wouldn't have to I don't guess. The truss rod does fit super tight, I had to use a mallet to get it in so im guessing I should be good there One other thing I've been noticing is, with all my guitars that I have here the heels also follow the taper, I'm not really sure how this will work with clearance on the body for the neck. If the body neck cavity and the neck both taper wouldn't that make it almost impossible to slide the heel into the cavity?
