mistermikev

3 minutes ago, norm barrows said:

you know how it is, the car never makes the noise when you take it to the mechanic! <g>.

next time that bug pops up its ugly head, you should take the opportunity to squash it once and for all - if possible - before it disappears again. there's nothing worse than a ghost in the machine appearing at the worst possible moment.

 

tru dat.

3 minutes ago, ScottR said:

Pickin' and darnin'?

SR

probably getting funky given my socks.

1 hour ago, ScottR said:

I always wondered where those lone socks go. Every load of socks ever washed in the whole world starts out with only matched pairs and what comes out of the dryer includes one sock missing its mate. Who knew the one with wanderlust was headed to your office?

Socks being the devious rascals that they are, I suppose some of those dryers loads could actually have one extra, when one of the strays decide to come back.

SR

Oh and picks don't go awol.

Dogs eat them.

sr

I just assumed all those lots socks were meeting up with all those lost picks and having a party!

2 minutes ago, ScottR said:

Nice work and great jigs!

How did a dirty sock find its way into the work zone? You feet get hot?

We tend to give grief for feet in the shot....but this is the first time I've ever seen a dirty sock cover up.

SR

hehe, that's a pic of my office.  apparently a lone sock meandered into the shot.  I have no idea how it made it in there because, as my wife will tell you, I NEVER leave things lying around.  Pretty sure it just wanted to be closer to all the picks that have gone awol over the years... (I wondered if someone would laugh at that)

looks great.

Just now, ScottR said:

Nice evolution of your jig.

SR

thank you sir.  necessity... bla bla... mother... blah... invention... ya da yada.  Really just the best thing I could think of to keep it from slipping again!

not sure we can't rule out alpha particles landing on my hard drive norm.  (challenge accepted: scenario where it IS in fact the data but also is inconsistent - hehe)

yeah, most home printer have those flimsy plastic guides that move around a lot... try and reprint something right on top of something you've printed and you'll know that for sure. 

I never use the edges of the paper, in fact I often pre-cut the useable part from the 8.5x14 before I join them.

for whatever reason, haven't had the issue since... gonna have to try to latch on to the common element when it happens again.

I'm using photoshop primarily which is not a draft solution but is known to be pretty accurate. I have scaled up pictures of a fretboard and found them to be very accurate to scale of pdfs of actual dimension so pretty sure photoshop isn't the issue, and I doubt there is an issue with the hp driver for the printer but you never know.   printing to actual size w/o any scaling. 

Beginning to suspect it is actually an issue with paper movement thru the printer because it isn't a consistent issue.

it may have something to do with the fact that I often run pnp blue and clear inkjet taped to A4 paper.  I've put a lot of tape thru either printer and there could be a little sticky spot that grabs from time to time.  Today I did a bunch of prints of carve templates and didn't have 1 issue. 

Perhaps I just had a bad batch of paper too... humidity can curl it a bit and perhaps that's what happened. 

congratulations on a well deserved and hard fought win!  truly spectacular build!

13 hours ago, ThreeDprof said:

Making progress on the plug

Front

Back

Headstock

 

Added:

*Rear "comfort" contour

*Headstock refinement

*Hipshot tuners

looks like it's getting refined - nice work.  the headstock looks a bit salvador dali (not being critical -I think it looks cool).  looking fwd to seeing how the actual process goes.  I would like to suggest that you don't post pics on photobucket as they have a long history of all of the sudden deleting your entire album (ask me how I know).  You can upload stuff to projgtr and it's very user friendly, but at the least, instead of making links... just enter the url in text and hit enter right after it... it will show the pic instead of having to click a link and go there.  Maybe it's just me but I prefer not to click on links.  Looking forward to your progress.

4 hours ago, norm barrows said:

anti-aliasing in the image or the printer or both might be a cause.   it will tend to make lines less than razor sharp.

it's a good guess but not the case here.  my lines come out very sharp and not jagged.  It's more of a precision issue.  when I line up my hash marks perfect... the outter edge will still be about 1/16 wider or shorter. 

thanks for the reply

in case anyone find themselves in a similar need... was looking around and found this:

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/lynx-2pc-concave-cabinet-scraper-set?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6OrahbCh5gIVl9hkCh0x0QxFEAQYAyABEgL1tPD_BwE

just what the doc ordered. 

My plan - to try to do this is to do up a photoshop drawing with 22.5/45/67.5 facets.  trace around the outline in the approx intersects from that drawing... use a belt-sander followed by shinto rasp to do the facets... then trace around with this cabinet scraper. 

thank y'all again for your input.

1 hour ago, curtisa said:

I'd suggest that climb cutting with such a large bit hanging over the edge of a board is possibly one of the most dangerous things you could do with a handheld router.

Bits larger than 1.5" in diameter are generally not recommended for handheld router use. They're just too large to be safely managed at the same RPMs that smaller diameter bits operate at. A 1" roundover bit is likely to be more than 2.5" in diameter once you add the bearing and the extra bit of overcut that the upper curvature of the bit is likely to have. Big bits like that should always be used in table routers or industrial shapers. Even then it's not something I'd personally want to do without some form of mechanical feed/guide system to keep my hands well away from such a large cutter while passing it through.

Climb cutting makes it worse as the bit wants to walk along the rotational direction as it moves along the surface of the timber. The chances of the router wanting to skate off in your hands become much higher, even moreso with such a large diameter bit.

To be clear: the event I'm talking about was not a 1" roundover bit.. it was a 1/2".  This was on my strat I did a while back.  probably just over 1.375" at the edge.  I've run that sm size bit through solid surface on a flat edge... but a radius edge is scary and not advisable - hence this thread.

Above I was talking about a similar effect with 1" roundover for a future build, but referring back to that experience with a 1/2.   the future build would probably require more like a .75, but even with a variable speed router mounted to a table or overhead jig... I don't think I'd be able to summon the courage to turn that on! 

On that note, I'm not sure table routers are safer than hand held.  It's a false sense of security IMO because the piece can damage you worse than a bit.  (I'm sure you know) a table router can throw a big heavy piece of wood at life threatening speeds, and you typically don't have the same kind of grip of it.  I suspect you probably meant running it with a fence and a featherboard type situation cause I know you know what yer doin', just didn't want to leave anyone reading this thinking that is something they wanna try! 

the most viable option at this point seems to me to be a scraper with a .75-1" radius.  Now... how to get one.

20 minutes ago, ADFinlayson said:

The other thing, what state are you router bits in? After the catastrophe earlier in the year where my router bit chewed the top on a guitar, I got myself a little diamond and some lapping fluid. Just a couple of passes on each flute and my cheap Chinese round nose bits are cutting significantly better.

crap I'm all out of likes for the day or you'd def get one there... the bit in question was a brand new whiteside 1/2" roundover... but I was using it on a heavily quilted top.  I was only taking off about 1/8" per pass.  had it sitting up on a flat board clamped to the radius... but going out over the horn there wasn't much contact area and I'm guessing I tipped it just a hair.  I knew it was a bad idea when I did it and will take care not to even attempt anything close to that again... that's how folks get hurt.  fortunately I had both hands on the router and was half expecting something so I didn't really flinch... but I recognize it for what it was - not something to repeat.  

all that said.. was just thinking I need to sharpen one or two of my bits.  can you send me a link to what you got?  I realize it's over seas but I'd like to take a look and will snag something similar in the near future.

31 minutes ago, ScottR said:

Oh. I was picturing it on a flat top.

Were it me, I'd carve the bulk of the material away and sand the round over in and let my fingers tell me when it was right. You can go that route and use a template like what's used for a neck profile to check your work against.

SR

good call on the neck profile feeler.

31 minutes ago, ADFinlayson said:

You will be fine with your router jig, just use the climb cutting technique and start off with a much smaller radius and work your way up so you aren't taking much material away in one go. 

I'm sure I would be fine... just seems like sort of a potentially dangerous way to do it and would love to find an easy alternative but I suspect there probably isn't one.

thank you both for the replies!

1 hour ago, Bizman62 said:

Cut a piece of an old saw blade. Don't let it go blue if you use an angle grinder for cutting and shaping.

if I go that route... I will more than likely ask about a thousand more questions when I get there... but I appreciate the info.

4 minutes ago, ScottR said:

You might figure where a 45 degree camber falls within the roundover and cut that first.

SR

well, the chamfer would get me closer... yes, and thank you for the suggestion, but I'm quite hesitant to want to run a router on top of a radius surface.  There isn't as much of the base making contact with the surface so it's precarious at best... esp for running big bits.

Perhaps I should consider trying to build a variation on the binding router.  It just scares me because as you push the body into a big bit... it it decides it wants to pull it in or push it out quickly... and you've got your hands holding it... trouble.

thank you both!

23 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

Some helping lines along the edge might help. Use a depth gauge of your choice for both the side and top to draw the borders of the roundover.

probably couldn't hurt.  right now I'm leaning towards either finding the perfect cabinet scraper, or learning how to make one.

so just daydreaming here about a future build, hope you will humor me.  I want to do something kind of similar to a spector  ns2.  The top and back on that is radius'd.  It also has a large roundover that appears to me to be a hair bigger than 1/2". 

Doing a roundover with a router on something that is already radius'd, esp with a 1/2" roundover bit... it s a bit hairy... esp on figured wood.  I did this on my strat job by placing a flat 3/4" board on top... and hanging the 1/2" roundover low and off the edge quite a bit.  I did have a small choke in my router that is always scary and it took a little divot out of the figured top.  I'm sure if I had to I could simply to small cuts and gradually get down to the half mark, but this type of round-over doesn't follow the profile well anyway.

I have a jig for following the profile for doing binding, but I don't think I'd want to try that with a 1/2" bit on a bigger router... anyway 1/2" isn't big enough. 

Could build a table... but even that isn't going to follow the profile well. 

So I think I'd have to do this manually... but how to be consistent?  Was thinking I might look around for scrapers that happen to feature a 3/4" or larger rounded area?  I guess I could build the profile into a small piece of wood and just check the profile here and there to try to maintain consistency. 

how would you accomplish  1" roundover on top/bottom of a fully radius'd body?

32 minutes ago, Crusader said:

Hi, thanks for your comments it's much apreciated

Although its bothering me that maybe I should have put some bracing in the back. I can see myself in the near future trying to glue bits of wood through the f-holes. Always making things hard for myself!

def do a vid if you do that!

3 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

Very likely so. The language barrier sometimes leaves details on the other side.

Understood. The issue might be your printer rather than the method you're using. It could be the paper feeding mechanism stretching the edges ever so slightly. The paper is grabbed against the rollers in one or two spots. In many printers the paper makes a tight 180 degrees turn against a roller - pretty similar to a fret bending jig! In a laser printer the heat can warp the paper, in an inkjet printer the paper gets more or less moist which affects the paper even more than heat. Measuring the length of a paper sheet accurately before and after printing may be fiddly but for what I've noticed a fresh print always is somewhat cupped or rolled.

right on... I ramble to... so it could be MY language barrier!

I've thought of this... the paper not being aligned.  I tried to put it in there very tight.  You may be on to something with the heat because it freq comes out with the edges bent from the heat.  Also, the paper stock may contribute as I don't use 14" that much so it's old.  I'm def going to try the inkjet and perhaps get some thicker paper stock just see if that makes a dif. 

thank you all for your responses - I do appreciate.

well, not saying there's not better ways, and measuring works but it'd make it easier.  I'm putting a fancy fretboard end on and I when I've bought pre slotted in the past I had the 23rd fret slot right where I didn't want it.  I want that end to stick out just so from the edge of the neck wood to give me no more room than I need to do a truss access under it and not be seen as much as possible.  on the other end - the headstock.  the way I like to do gibson style nut is to have exactly the width of the nut sitting right up tight to the 14/17deg angle and then when I put an 1/8" overlay I push it into the nut to secure it in place.  if that nut isn't exactly on the angle... it looks wonky.  I'll stop there as I think you see how anal I'm being... but having a full scale print that is perfect would make it easier to get that all where I want it.  what I'm doing now is probably as good as it gets... but I think it could only improve with a more exact drawing to work from.

thank you sir, what I'm hearing is - it's not going to do anything for me (big print).  I appreciate not having to go through the install and uninstall. 

I do actually set it up to where my first print is usually the most important stuff (pickups/bridge/etc) and the centerline and trust that one the most while everything else is just a 'suggestion' from there on in.  it just bugs me.  The worste is when I'm doing a neck because it's really hard to get it perfectly symmetric.  I print it diagonally on a 14" piece but I end up really just using it as a guide and sort of plotting everything out manually anyway.  I guess the only real solution is to print at kinkos or perhaps there are printers with better precision.  I'll try my canon next time and see if that's any better.  also going to try the adobe poster print just to see if there is any more precision that way.  doubtfull.  wonder if there's a poster print in photoshop.

anywho, thank you again for the suggestion.

1 hour ago, Bizman62 said:

I already found a 101 but apparently I didn't save the edit.

Anyhow, here's one solution: https://www.digitalcitizen.life/print-large-image-multiple-pages-4-steps-using-microsoft-paint

That trick might even work directly in Photoshop.

This was my first suggestion, it's similar for Paint but they also mention a good quality online service: https://turbofuture.com/graphic-design-video/How-To-Print-A-Large-Photo-On-Many-A4-Pages-To-Make-A-Poster

Not sure you quite understood me there.  I am able to print it to multiple pages now... pretty easy to do.  I can piece together a poster simply by tossing hash marks on my images and printing out an entire guitar body on only 3 pieces of paper.  My issue is with the very small distortions I'm getting between the pages.  An issue of precision.  I'm aware that there are programs that are designed to do this automatically like this one: https://woodgears.ca/bigprint/ and that they even claim they can compensate for scale inaccuracy.

my question is more "can anyone verify the accuracy/precision of such programs"?