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mistermikev

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Posts posted by mistermikev

  1. 5 minutes ago, ScottR said:

    First, that was the size of the timber available, although I did cut a little off the top...with a flippin hand saw. And I love to do honkin deep carves and rarely have the raw materials available to do so. This time I do, and am relishing every minute of it. We'll see if I'm still relishing it when the top is done. That burl is bloody tough carving.

     

    SR

    roger that.  For the record I never questioned why the top was so thick... just the back.  Could be pretty cool tho.  Something about a thick guitar that is comfy... but not too thick (ie 295 thick!).  rock on.

  2. 1 hour ago, ScottR said:

    You are correct, Mike that thing is thick, somewhere north of 3.5 inches. Just think of it as raw materials. Much of that is going away.

    And honestly it is surprisingly light....for it's size. I'd guess around 7 pounds right now, which is probably where it will end up after carving away a bunch of wood and then strapping on a bunch of metal and magnets. The limba is the lightest I've ever come across, easily half of what same size examples I've had in the past.

    SR

    right on.  why did you decide to go so thick?  just curious.

  3. 3 hours ago, ADFinlayson said:

    Thanks, no the bridge pickup is pretty hot, its probably just a combo of vol rolled back slightly and a crap amp - just running through my little mustang GT amp which I'm regretting buying. It's got great features, built in looper etc, but it sounds fairly abysmal. 

    right on.  that pickup cleans up nicely.  were you recording with a mic or does the mustang go out usb or something?  sounded like an 'in the room' sound.  I have a buddy who plays out w a fairly professional band that swears by the katana... he gets decent sounds out of it.  anywho, nice guitar!

     

  4. fwiw op... I've got a number of necks that only have tru oil.  Musicman uses a dip in tru oil... lots of other guitar mfg use tru oil for the neck and while it doesn't have quite the seal that poly or nitro might... good enough for them/me. 

    I too have used nitro over tru oil (sweet spot blonde).  seems to work fine for me. 

    Even if the neck gets dirty after a while... it'd be pretty easy to clean it up and apply more tru oil. 

     

    just a thought.

  5. 15 hours ago, ADFinlayson said:

    Put a short demo video together. I actually filmed myself noodling to a couple of random youtube backing tracks for the best part of an hour, but I'm so shit that only 3 mins were actually any good (debatable I know) 😂

    Enjoy..

     

    damn... if I can get past you putting your crotch in my face I'll try to watch this thing a lil later!  bam!  crotch to the face!  guitar looks beautiful tho... really nice.

  6. 17 minutes ago, ScottR said:

    In all honesty, I do, or have done all the above. In the beginning the course grits are about shaping as much as smoothing. By the middle grits, 180, 220, I start watching the scratches. When it get up into the finer grits, micromesh 2400 to 3600, I start paying very close attention, and may back up if need be. When there is a question, I'll sand that grit in one direction, say vertical, and keep doing it until all the scratches go the same direction. Then I'll go it again going horizontal. When all the scratches are going that direction, I know I've sanded out all the previous grit's scratches and can move on to the next. Note that this mostly happens on the clear coat, but it works with wood as well

    SR

    thank you, that's helpful.

    • Like 1
  7. 40 minutes ago, ScottR said:

    I can't even spit shine my boots.

    I think I'll stick to micromesh and polishing compound.

    SR

    fair enough... but don't say I didn't believe in you.😁 

    Perhaps you could elaborate (if you don't mind) on how you know when to proceed from one grit to the next?  do you just have a 'feel' for how much to do, or do you stop and look for scratches, or do you get to the end grit... see some scratches, and go back a couple grits?

  8. 2 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

    Tried to find evidence and found this: https://artisanguitars.com/1951-fender-nocaster-blackguard-all-original-pre-telecaster-id-5925

    To me it looks like the rim on it is thicker than that of the nickel cup.

    Original style or not, machined brass certainly sounds more valuable than nickel.

    I'm guessing that's a jam washer style but admittedly it's closer than I thought.  Used to seeing the well rounded 'tub' style.

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