mistermikev

6 hours ago, avengers63 said:

In a few years, we're planning on moving. Probably to Tennessee. I'm sure I'll have some of that sauna action waiting for me.

But until then......

 

side dots in...

 

gratuitous fretboard shot...

 

frets in, beveled, and filed flush

 

end of the "under the fretboard' wood taped off to prep for the veneering

 

then evening up the edges of the bookmatched veneer

 

cutting out the fretboard area on the veneer

 

if a big piece of MDF, a 2x4 cutoff for the center, some other various cutoffs, and 12 F & C clamps can't replace a vacuum veneer press for a flat surface, then veneering a guitar is simply above my pay grade.

 

That's it for today. Nothing on the guitar. It's shower time, then booze & old wrestling videos

I like your sense of humor.  I'm crusing along thinking "well those dots look real nice, wonder what he used" then blammo Rick Flair to the face!  I tip my hat sir!

wow, did not see that coming.  I can't stand wearing my face shield for more than 10 mins when my garage is that hot... and sweating so much that I'm concerned about slipping.  Def not ideal for me!

31 minutes ago, ADFinlayson said:

Yep, decent folk like their toast toasted, but I'll let you off because you've got a great rack

um.... my eyes are up here ADFinlayson.  also, I now have TWO great racks... pics to follow soon (have to clean my room)

44 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

Poor Mike. I would never insult anyone by making them sit in a sauna that cold! 150-160 is nice if its moist, 175-200 if it's dry. Depending on the sauna even 250 can be nice but only for short periods.

just one question... how often do you do woodworking in your sauna?

ooh... that's chilly!  poor you.  it's going to be a breezy 112 in phoenix today.  I know, I'm so spoiled.  In my garage, aka my sauna, it reg hits 120+.  I complain but truth be told it is the perfect place to dry wood out!

3 minutes ago, ADFinlayson said:

I hope you're not calling that toast, that's still bread mate.

well... yes... um... I like my TOAST just slightly toasty... perhaps a little more toasty than it was in the video... so it was on it's way to being toast for the sake of argument.  my wife likes it super crispy... which is a sub category of toast known only as 'BURNT TOAST'!  (I take it u r a burnt toast guy, eh?)

2 hours ago, Frankdemariany said:

Gotcha and then either put a new logo or somehow get off the Epiphone...

Thanks! 

lots of options there... you could buy some clear waterslide decal stock and print on inkjet(most common printer),   if you want black headstock then you'll just have to paint in some details on the decal or mask off an area of the headstock and paint it white and put a color decal with black edges over it.  I/we can walk you through that when you get to it.

more than likely you risk sanding thru doing that... but I would.  you COULD just sand up to the face of it and leave that untouched. 

1 hour ago, Frankdemariany said:

Awesome thank you for the visual. That helps a ton. I didn't think about the pick up switch or the jack input. What would I need to do with those? I'm assuming the pick up switch is what's pictured here?

Any suggestions for the headstock? Is is worth trying to get the Epophone off? I've seen some use a Gibson decal but I wasn't sure. I was just thinking out loud. 

 

Thanks! 

since you have to pull out the switch... you need to cut both pickups and the live to the switch... then reconnect them exactly as they were later.  the jack should stay with the pots and wired up. 

afa headstock... IMO you should make it yours... put something you like on it.  you could paint it black, and do some waterslide decal on it.  print it out on an inkjet or laser printer as just an outline of the letters, then paint the inside of the letters with a gold paint pen.  then stick it on and clear over it.  or do deco foil in chrome or gold. 

hehe, I bet.  my shoulder hurts just looking at it!

nicely done.

looks brutalz!

now worries.  looking fwd to seeing some pickguard photos.

right on.  in that case perhaps forstner is the way to go.  or you could just use a straight edge to do 'lines' with the router.  leaving a 3/8" barrier between each 'line' for strength.  or... what I did on my delta lectric... is just cut some 1/8" mahog into strips and used it to strengthen the top in critical areas.  that was a 3/32 maple top over an almost full hollow body.  I imagine any of those solutions would work great.

2 minutes ago, avengers63 said:

I got the wings for the headstock glued on, as well as the "under-thickness" extension for the guitar headstock. Neither is picture-worthy.

For the guitar, I'm seriously considering 2 things. 1) drilling a crapload of holes in the bass side with a big forstner bit to drop some weight. Not a full chambering, just weight loss. Northern ash has a great tone, but it's heavy. 2) using a redwood burl drop top I've had for about 10-12 years. 

I did forstner weight relief on a p bass build... brought it all the way down to 10 lbs!  Unless you do it really aggressively I don't think it's worth it... just my opinion.  I have a bad back and wish I had gone full semihollow on that build.

26 minutes ago, Frankdemariany said:

I guess both the tuning knobs and tuning machines...lol. I've heard guitar fetish is not bad and I will check out these other places for sure. 

SO I can find one I like (even if your supposed to drill it in) and get duck brand carpet tape? Never though about that! 

I wouldn't get the duct brand because A it will likely keep paint with it in coming off and B it's very thick.  I would just use the 3m carpet tape - it's very thin and will stick very well... less likely to take paint with it when coming off altho still a risk.

afa guitar fetish... haven't tried their tuners but if you are looking for less expensive options that are solid the wilkinson locking are pretty decent and in the under $30 range.  they use them on reverend guitars so... no one complains.

you mean tuning knobs themselves... or the machines+knobs.  knobs themselves - evilbay.  you can get tuners there too.  grizzly has some great deals on some gotoh but I think they are all gold. 

afa pickguard... wd will make one to your specs using any material you like but it's spendy.  if you can find a pickguard you like... you could just use carpet tape. 

just a thought.

you had me at 'flamed mahog'.  looking fwd to it!  welcome!

4 minutes ago, ADFinlayson said:

Alas he was at nan and granddads for the day playing with their dogs. I'll try and get him in the next one.

right on!

9 hours ago, ADFinlayson said:

Just finished episode 5!

 

well nicely done.  lil dissapointed no dog intro but all in all it's another success. 

1 hour ago, Danstinyexplorer said:

Here we go. Went black in the end and moved the position of the controls a little. Still needs some dots and a bit of finishing work on the frets. 

Fairly pleased how it turned out considering we don’t have an electric guitar in the house to use as reference!

looks great.  emerald really shines against that pickguard.  nice work.

12 minutes ago, Frankdemariany said:

Thank you. Next step is to sand it and to get it ready for the repaint. 

So leave a millimeter of the plastic shield that’s connecting the wire? The old wire (attaches to these pick ups) will just stay there and a new set of picks ups would come with new wiring?

just the pickup wires.  he's saying to cut them back 1/2" from where they connect so that you'll leave enough of the wire connected to the original connection that you can see the color of the original wire where it connects. 

yes, new pickups will have new pickup wires. 

could be either.  this would be one part. 

once you have this wired up as drawn... you get a 9v battery clip.  it will have red/black wires.  red to the red on the preamp.  black will go to your output jack. 

looks like you have a stereo jack there.  if you give me a better pic of the lugs I could tell you better.  there is going to be 3 connections on a stereo jack.  two of them are there already wired to your vol pot.  the third lug is going to get the black wire from the battery. 

this enables the active circuit to stop draining power from the battery when you disconnect your cable from the guitar. 

so two wires total... one for the red battery lead, one for the black battery lead. 

3 minutes ago, MiKro said:

I like it!!!! When I get some time LMAO!!! I am going to remake my 4x12 cab. The lower got some water damage so I'm thinking just make a new one. LOL!!

 Low on the priority list right now.

mk

priorities?  never heard of them.  Thank you for the response!

agree... can't help but feel the time would have been well spent building guitars. 

that said, I probably only have 10-15hrs total in the two of these (finishing the 2nd now), 

only that much because I didn't have the proper tools to sand something this wide so had to use my router sled - followed by belt, and then orbital!  not to mention every straight edge was routered (no table saw). 

good experience in how NOT to do it.

too late... now you owe me your soul... mhoo hoo haa haa haa ho hee hee (sinister laugh).  The red wire at the bottom is your red wire on your pics.  Take a look and make sure it is hitting both of these lugs as it's hard to see in the photo but it should be. 

the black wire at the top goes to the top of a tone pot.   for each pickup you'll notice two wires aren't listed... the black and the bare... those all go to the back of a vol pot. 

this will yield Bridge Humbucker, Bridge single coil, neck and bridge humbucker, neck single coil, neck humbucker.  IMO it's simple but about the best combos you could have from a bass for variety.