mistermikev
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Posts posted by mistermikev
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that's the spirit... you got this.
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well I'll be dipped in tomato paste... the studio doesn't show anything... that's cruddy. heads up the 3 pickup version at Gitarrebassbau shows a channel there and a few spots where they use the long bit.
afa drift... all I can tell you is to drill a small pilot to get started. I like to stand back and look at the angle i need before I drill. try to visualize it ("be the ball!"). drill the pilot at that angle for say 3/4" and it should keep you going in the right direction. Other than that, you just have to will it into place!
also, there are some threads on here, fairly recent, where a cnc whiz built a firebird... you might want to search the site and take a look.
cheers and looking fwd to some 'glamor shots'!
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ah, spacing yes. perhaps.
gotoh makes some amazing stuff. they also make some other really lightweight tuners but these are the lightest... probably lighter than the originals. that said... it'd be a shame not to put something original on their... unfortunately that probably could take a long time to track down the right ones.
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have never built a firebird myself... but I know some places where you can get all the info you need. google electric herald firebird and there is a studio there. another is Gitarrebassbau and firebird... that one is in german so if you want to read the thread use google translate and pop the url in there. if you are trying to do one w/o a pickguard that's a dif story. you could route on the back and put a pickguard there or if you are doing a neck thru I saw a guy here who did a channel in one of the wings... he drilled in from the pickups to meet it with a long bit. you can get long bits at harbor freight among other places. hope that helps!
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wow, that's going to be cool. so... tune-o-matic style bridge but handmade?
afa pickups... you have an elec winder or using the fishing rod reel type? this is something I want to try at some point but just... figure there is a learning curve and so many can do it better than me! will be watching for sure. wooden covers - birdseye sounds pretty cool too. looking fwd to it!
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WOW DUDE... body is looking like it is going to be a real looker. fretboard is very nice too. what type of bridge/pickups?
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dang that seems like a real long shot. I imagine if you really wanted to find exact replacements you'd have to do a lot of searching on reverb and evilbay... then pay thru the nose when you found them. It's a beauty guitar and would be a shame to modify it... that said guitars were meant to be played! I'm guessing you could easily just buy some single piece tuners and drill new holes but you were trying to avoid that yes?
i did see an evilbay seller offering framus vintage tuners... but no info on spacing. you could reach out:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Framus-Vintage-Nickel-Tuners-Oval-Plastic-knob-6-in-Line-left/323442798271
hope that helps!
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can't speak to the quality of what they sell today, but 20 years ago I bought a flamed maple/mahog tele body from them and it was very high quality for the price. I think back then it cost me $150ish... but it's a 4A top and really nice. Generally stew mac stuff tends to be pretty good quality but a hair overpriced.
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thank you sir.
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working on my video skillz... trying to make it easier to do videos and learn how to edit better. whipped this up... I hope you'll watch and tell me your thoughts.
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I can't wait to use that the next time someone from overseas give me a hard time about metric!
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right on... had to look and convert... so 1.8" sounds about normal. just looks like it might be 2.5" in some of those pics!
btw... when you go below 1mm... are you ever tempted to say "it's six and a half mm"? hehe. caught myself doing that more than once!
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wow, nicely done. I like how the lam made a lil shark tooth by the headstock. worked out cool. in one of the pics, it looks like that body is super thick... is it 1.75 body with 3/4 top? might just be the lines from the lams making it look fat.
your blue turned out beautiful, I have more respect for that now having done a blue! harder than it looks! that guitar is def photogenic from the 'straight on" angle on the top. the back is equally photogenic.
you must be very proud.
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I concur... looks awfully high to me... but then I like my strings extremely low... unless I'm playin' slide.
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On 4/27/2019 at 7:20 AM, Andyjr1515 said:
As an absolute minimum you need something like this:
They are not expensive but give you the P95 protection (95% protection against organic particulates) regarded as the minimum for paint spraying. There are other makers around - the important thing is that the cartridges MUST be rated for organic fumes and vapours.
The other important thing is that they must fit properly. A decent rule of thumb is that if you can smell the spray, you are in danger.
And yes - someone I know ended up in hospital for some considerable time spraying in his garage with the door open.
Also if you are thinking of setting up a booth, get proper advice from people who deal in such equipment, especially the electrical stuff. Basically, yes, pretty much all powders and volatiles can create an explosive atmosphere. There is a great case study of a custard powder factory that was FLATTENED... Therefore electrical items like fan motors, etc, suitable for these kinds of environments are rated anti-explosion. In Europe these electrical items have an ATEX rating (anti-explosion). The US legislation may be different. Again, generally not expensive but you do need someone who knows what they are talking about to advise or supply such stuff..
BTW - just wanted to say thanks to you all for the info and support on this thread. I bought the exact respirator above and it is working great. nice to not have to take a breath, run in spray, run out and breath! Should have bought that ages ago! Thank you all again! Can't promise it will improve my finishing skill tho!
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21 hours ago, Bizman62 said:
Anyone else see Moomin trolls in the f-holes of the upper one?
i guess... loosely.
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tis a good trick and something to keep in mind... but honestly if a neck blank was bowed... more than say 1/16... think I'd just use it in a lam or not use it at all. not sure I'd trust that it would'nt become a problem later. I've built enough cabinets to know that fighting with what wood wants to do... well the wood is gonna win it's just a question of when!
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nice trick adding the ebony dust to the glue... storing that away for later. top is 2 die for.
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You english folks sure do have some nice ash! This is "figured english ash" or "blister ash" i got from Gilmer Wood Co. Had a bit of a fiasco as the prominent blister on the right there has a bit of a tearout on it that wasn't disclosed but Gilmer was going to allow me to return it... but I don't know...such a beautiful piece, might just have to buy another! Anywho, there's my confession!
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that was my initial guess... perhaps the bent style diamonds. good call.
sidenote: def using art deco font for headstock so thanks for that push!
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11 minutes ago, Urumiko said:
im not sure what i mean either.. something about the headstock just made my mind go to that era of design..
https://www.pinterest.co.uk/markoplnen/art-deco-guitars/?autologin=trueinteresting... must be subconscious art deco influence on my part... I am a huge fan of that era of guitars and the modern resurgence of that motif in design. above guitars are beauty.
I was uncertain if you were saying my design looked "art deco" as there isn't anything in specific I could point to that is overtly that style... but I like the idea it might invoke that anyway!
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8 hours ago, komodo said:
I do figured wood all the time in the planer, Wetting helps, also if you can put it through at somewhat of an angle, that helps. Spiral cutter head, even better - but thats getting into some $$. A sacrificial board in front and behind helps with snipe, sort of like how a back board under a piece being drilled helps with chip out. If you get a planer with a locking cutter head, that helps a lot with snipe, my Delta has zero snipe.
One big thing is that a planer will not make a piece flat. It thicknesses. If you put a bowed piece in, it will thickness but not flatten. A jointer will flatten using it's reference tables. That said. a shorter and thicker piece like body blanks will probably be flattened and are harder on a smaller jointer.
RE: scary factor - I've got healthy respect for all large power tools, and small hand tools. I'd never tell anyone how to feel, but planer is low on my list. Jointer is way up there, I still get a thrill every time I turn it on, and every pass over the cutter head. Big jointers (12-16") scare the crap out of me. Table saws used to give me a little adrenaline jolt, but I love them so much now. Biggest respect from me is - jointer (large open cutter head), router (VERY high speed, interchangeable cutter), radial arm saw (too easy to cut your arm off, trapped wood is scary af), sprayed finishes (permanent lung damage). Honorable mention to car jack and jack stands. Working under a car with 6" under clearance is terrifying, and I will have 3 levels of redundancy for keeping that car up. (cinder blocks, jack stands, jack)
some good info again - thank you! I don't have issues with snipe at all - locking head and input/output tables so it doesn't seem to have that issue. I am getting a 'rib' in the middle of my piece but it's easy to sand out. afa bow, I know what you mean. it will take out bow if it's going in sideways if that makes any sense... but obviously will follow the bow on a long piece. easily managed with router sled at that pt.
I've worked on a table saw - big professional delta... had to do cut lists from 4x8 malamine all the time... had to put laminate through one (talk about risky... laminate will cut you like a razor so you have to fear that AND the table saw - unrolloing the laminate into the blade!).
Tablesaw is about the most versatile tool in the shop... and there may be a correlation between that and it's reputation for being the most dangerous. it would make sense that given it's multiple uses it would be more likely to be involved in accidents. that said... those big heavy delta saws with a 10' table are a lot safer than anything I can afford. If at some point I find I can't work without one... I'll likely get one. until then, I'm better off without. sm for jointer.
jack stands... makes me kind of nervous just thinking about them. Fortunately I have no auto/mech skills!
thank you again for all the invaluable info!
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also... just noticed you have two jacks?
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wow, that is a 10. particularly I love your end grain... something really attractive about it.
how do you like that stabilizer? got a link?
Wood Choice for Pickguard?
in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
Posted
well, here's what I know - disclaimer: isn't much.
first suggestion: ebony. allenguitar sells ebony fretboards that have splits and worm holes - i think it was 5 for $25? ebony joins so well you wouldn't see the seems and it'd be black like the original, but a bit more classy. obviously this would require some milling. would also work well for the back of the headstock. the black of the orig pickguard really compliments the black headstock... probably calculated... so I would consider that.
suggestion 2: mahog... I've ordered from here before https://ocoochhardwoods.com/scroll-saw-lumber/ the nice thing is their mahog was really high quality unlike the stuff I got from rockler. probably have to go a bit thicket for strength w mahog, but you could reinforce it on the backside with any number of things.
3: generally those melody makers had a rosewood board... you could just take a black pickguard and glue rosewood lam to it.
4: sky is the limit... woodtoworks has a lot of exotic pickguard sized pieces of wood... from burls to figured walnut.
5: rothko and frost... they have some crazy beautiful pickguard stock... now this is plastic/abs/etc, but some of the stuff there, like single layer pearloid or variations on tortoise shell that is anything but cheap and would look amazing! i spend hours looking at the tortoise stuff!