mistermikev
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Posts posted by mistermikev
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coming along nicely. good work.
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lovely stuff as always brother. love that backside... limba I s'pose. really sharp.
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from here... it's mostly the little things... sanding, hitting some details... still have to make knobs... doing frets on the oak version, then should be ready for finishing... then I can start doing the electronics.
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31 minutes ago, ScottR said:
Damn, there are a lot of details involved here. You've done a excellent job of keeping them tied together and harmonious.
Looks great and I love the bridge!
SR
thank you Scott. very much appreciate it.
I've made quite a bit of progress in the last two weekends... at the point where it's all about sanding/fitting. lot of manual labor for sure... and it's beating me up!
"fading fast.... got to hold on.... only chance for survival........ finish the guitar!"
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ah, got ahead of myself. you've got your work "CUT OUT" for you then hehe.
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2 hours ago, nakedzen said:
Thanks for checking! They're both around 9.5k. I like the neck, I wanted something with a smoother top end.
right on... I'm surprised, that is a VERY slight overwind. neck doesn't sound bad or anything... just not what I'm used to hearing there. cudos on a great sounding build.
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i have a hard time getting a boner over mando just cause I could never play one... but you did what looks like a real nice job on this. from here it looks like nice tight joinery, great job.
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On 12/21/2022 at 6:42 AM, nakedzen said:
Took me a while to get a sound clip done. Some sloppy random noodling:
nice demo. i am not crazy about the A5 neck but the bridge sounds outstanding. I might like the neck a bit more for solo stuff but you did mostly chords and it just didn't have enough highs for me (just one aholes o... myself I appreciate detailed feedback so I hope I'm not coming on too strong... just my honest impression). Bridge sounds like a slight overwind? 12kish?
anywho, the kemper sounds nice as well.
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i like the idea of the strat jack on the back... might have to try that some time. some lovely walnut there, and a very nice carve.
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well out of the ashes comes a phoenix. nice work.
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here is a full size pdf of the body against said 24.75 scale fretboard... taken from a dean ml 79 on reverb... enjoy.
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was going to show you that if you use fret2dfind and create a 24.75 scale fretboard with a 1 11/16 width nut then take a fairly straight on photo of an ml and scale it up in photoshop you can grab any measurements you like... but at it turns out there is one here:
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9 hours ago, henrim said:
I think she just made typo there and meant to write 8.777 kilo. So 8.777 N is the optimal string tension. Please ask what note, frequency and string gauge we are talking about.
hehe... it is true what they say about Siamese cats... little stinkers! they do know their string tension tho.
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1 hour ago, Bizman62 said:
Yepp, that's the idea. And the poles of my Gotoh tuners seem to be much shorter even on the bass side than those of my AmStd Strat.
Then again, out of curiosity I measured the drop both on the Gotoh and an angled 3+3. The high E string is 150 mm from the nut and sits 12 mm lower at the tuner. The 3+3 D and G are 140 mm from the nut and the strings sit 25 mm lower than the nut - and the headstock angle is only about 10 deg which is considered almost too shallow.
on a strat anyway... and as I understand it... the whole idea of the string tree is/was just to keep the strings from popping out of the nut. On a gibson, afa neck angle, it is my understanding that the original idea was to increase the perceived tension on lower frets. due to the shorter 24.625" scale length, and 22.5" on a byrdland, they feel pretty loose. I could totally be wrong about that but I'm almost certain I read it somewhere. I've read that the early (59) les pauls actually had a 17 degree headstock angle for this reason... and it has been relaxed on most modern gibsons to 14. long story long... as long as your strings don't pop out of the nut you are probably good.
"8777kllo" is how my cat feels about the whole thing (she jumped on my keyboard). she is a wise cat so I'm sure if we can figure out what she meant it will be really relevant lol.
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47 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:
I have a set of those made by Gotoh. The angle isn't as steep as with a string tree - with the tree the thinnest strings would hit the headstock at the G tuner mark (if that made any sense). Continuing that angle would require the tuner poles to be way below the surface. Oh, and for visualizing, the angle of the A string without a tree is roughly similar to the B-e strings going under a tree.
right, I am aware that the angle isn't nearly as steep... esp since you can put a string tree closer or further towards the nut... but the whole idea is they put enough of an angle on that you don't need string trees -altho it all depends on your geometry as even two 6 in lines might have a dif angle depending on how close to the nut you place the tuner.
even graph tec string trees - I do not like them. You can monkey with them to smooth them out and prevent most issues but I'd just as soon rather not have them at all. it's one more point that has to allow micro movements of the string w/o any resistance to maintain ideal stability.
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i will say that looks pretty cool. might have to try that sometime.
that said... if you look at how thick that neck is... and if you just took a strat neck and made it that thick and hence made the headstock 3/16" lower than typical... I don't think you would need string trees.
also, if you use staggered tuning posts on a std strat neck you don't need string trees.
i think the point here is I also hate string trees... and having alternative options to not needing them is nice, so I appreciate you post.
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29 minutes ago, Prostheta said:
Nah, no use to me and I wouldn't like the cut in between positions.
I'm currently looking at illuminated arcade buttons and whether I can mod a couple for Invaders. One for the volume pot, raising the button out enough to make it rotatable by hand, or a latching kill switch. Similar idea for the tone pot, but a latching tone switch for the neck. I usually dial it all the way off, so a fixed resistor/capacitor LPF or even a preset resistor/capacitor switched in/out would do the trick.
right on, that sounds cool. I've seen illuminated pots before... w an led in the shaft... not sure how great of a pot they are tho... guess just placing an led in there might be a better solution...
making arcade buttons that'd turn would be pretty cool if you can pull it off.
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2 hours ago, Prostheta said:
No, absolutely not. The simpler and more player-focused, the better. All I want out of guitars these days is that they play well and sound good. This one certainly hits that mark. If the 3-way switch could be made into a 2-way, that would be even better but I have to live with that middle position....! Same as the tone control; I prefer it neck only rather than global. So far, Pearly is blowing me away for so many reasons. I'm certain that a lot of this is to do with those Fluence pickups, however the guitar feels very alive and responsive. The Maple board is contributing a lot of clarity.
right on... to each his/her own. two way switch... lol, well you COULD make the middle an "OFF" position... one half the switch is common live and one half is ground... at least w a few models of 3 way this is possible w the 3 individual tabs.
certainly looks nice and would love to hear it if you ever are so inclined.
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27 minutes ago, Prostheta said:
I routed the electronics cavity specifically for this standard switch type. Freeway are rather bulky and provide more options than I can use I think. I've gravitated towards fewer controls as I get older, so I concentrate on playing instead of hunting in a sea of options. I just reconfigured my Helix so that my wahs disengage at the end of travel as well. Less is more, especially when it comes to my train of thought. I've become so dumb this year.
everyone hunting for complex options with simplified controls - a search that goes on forever.
just another possibility... with a std 5 way and only a single vol/tone... you've got a lot of unused tabs should you be able to simplify your needs. could see 3 bridge variations and then neck/bridge, neck in 4/5. just a thought anyway, not that you need input from me.;)
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admittedly those rings don't do much for me either... but they do offer sort of "hidden" switches. i suppose there is also the freeway 5 way switch too... but those are spendy and I'm not entirely convinced given how easy it would be to not know where you are on one.
that's a sweet aria.
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well it looks real sharp. at first I didn't even notice the invader behind... thought it was a shadow.
is a sleek look w just the two knobs and 5 way... be a shame to break that up. might consider some of those seymour switching pickup rings for alternative modes? kind of spendy for what they do.
anywho, lovely stuff.
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interesting, somehow I thought you were leaving that top part solid and from top down you wouldn't see the branches... are you putting a solid piece on top of that or perhaps a glass face?
would just be really cool to look down into the tree.
really sharp and probably quite the challenge to capture the random-ness of a tree but you've done a great job of it.
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noice. giant v - was not aware there were bigger vs. pretty cool.
tearout - I've only ever had one problem and it was because I was doing something stoopid - doing a roundover on an already radius top guitar. I think the most common place folks run into tearout is trying to do a full depth pass with a router and that is suicide. A) take no more than 1/2" depth cuts and B ) down hill routing and C) don't ever run a router through a knot... you'll limit your chances of ever bumping into it. This all takes more time... but it's generally trying to do things fast when you'll get into trouble anyway.
for inspiration - one of the most rare gibson vs ever:
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i think most of the tools that would be that large would be uber spensive.
you'd probably have to setup some sort of feeler arm... but this dro is 36" and only $110... .004" accuracy per foot.
https://ideaengineering.us/?ec_store=pageid1904modelnumber35-736-p
First acostic build, small body, wenge and sycamore
in In Progress and Finished Work
Posted
gobs of style there in those curves.