mdw3332
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Everything posted by mdw3332
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Drak, yeah, you captured it perfectly. Those were exactly the words I was searching for, you silver tongued devil you.
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tsl, does your's need a little brother? The idea for doing the binding came from your early post.
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In the old days, it was used for high quality golf clubs - when "woods" were really wood. It must be fairly stable and really hard.
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What Site for order instructions?
mdw3332 replied to Codec's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
I like Melvyn Hisock's "Make Your Own Electric Guitar". Also Dan Erlwine's books are great. I think you can get them at: Stew Mac -
"Um...is that soloid purpleheart?? If you drop that it will break.........................................................your foot!" Yeah, if it doesn't come out right, I can rent it out to break up concrete. Actually, it isn't that bad. It is only 16 1/2" X 11" and pretty heavily chambered. I was surprised how easy the Purpleheart was to work with - no destroyed blades or router bits. I'm not all that crazy about this one, but I found the wood for like $2.75 / BF, so there's about $10 - 15 invested in it and I had never worked with purpleheart before.
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Drak, Yeah, I think it was about the hardest stuff to do what I wanted. I used sometings similar on my Spalted Maple, but it was a solid strip of Ebony(?) with two lighter stripes. It worked fine, but that was also a Tele, so the curves weren't quite as severe. As far as the little spot by the neck cavity. what I did is to use a different piece of binding across the very front and bevel each side of it. The black that shows is the inner layer of the binding and it shows on each side from a straight on view. Looks better than in the pic. Thanks,
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Guys, Thanks for the help. After careful consideration of your wise advice, I decided that Ivroid/black binding would look great. Thanks.
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Brian, Probably not more than 20 minutes. Will soaking it longer help? What concerns me is that it seems to separate where the different woods are joined. Heres a pic. It seems that the light colored wood will bend fine, but the black inlays don't give at all. Thanks for the help.
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Stew Mac Piloted router bit
mdw3332 replied to ibreakemineedtobuildem's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
A friend had that and the Dremel attachment one. I have used the Dremel one and it was OK. Last week, I got the regular router bit with the 7 bearings. It is expensive ($70) but I just did a purpleheart Strat and it worked perfectly. I'm glad I sent the money. -
Any hints on how to bend 1/4" wooden binding to fit a Strat body. The stuff I have has diamond shaped inlays in it and everything I have used to bend it has resulted in it separating - especially since it appears that the diamond shapes are a harder wood and won't bend - then it cracks at the inlay. I've tried steam, dry heat and water with glycerin. Any help? Thanks,
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I have modified the "measure twice, cut once" to "measure about 27 times, go take a nap, come back and measure a bunch more times. Listen to what Drak says, he was a big help to me on one of my first projects. Remember, on a solid body, if your neck rout, bridge and pups are properly aligned, nothing else is really critical.
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Thanks Kirk.
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Anybody spraying nitro with an HVLP / compressor combo? I have been and am pretty happy with it, but have one question: what pressure do you you use going into the gun? I've been using about 35 PSI. I've seen turbine systems that operate at 4 - 5 PSI. Does the gun reduce the pressure when using a compressor? Also, how much thinner do you use with nitro? Thanks,
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Here is a pic of the back of my Spalted Maple project. It is magogany that I filled with Bartley Paste Wood Filler - Natural. It is almost white but looks really good on this particular piece. Marty
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I've always wanted an electric 12 string - thought I might try to build one. I'm not too concerned about the body, I've made several. I know finding bridges is not a problem. I'm not sure about the neck, I would like to buy one that is wide enough for my chubby little fingers. Does anyone know of necks that are built specifically for 12 strings? I grew up playing 12 string accoustics that had necks like 2 X 4s. Any other ideas or suggestions? Thanks.
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Let's see, this thread went from purpleheart.................to writings on the bathroom walls at Wal Mart. Yeah, I guess that's a logical progression. Thanks for the advice. Maybe I'll do this one at my friend's house.
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I picked up a piece of 4/4 purpleheart 7' X 9" for about $16. Seemed too cheap to pass up. The grain isn't overwhelming, but the color is pretty nice. Anyone hints on working with it - finishing etc? I'm thinking I may do something a little more exoctic than my normal traditional type designs.
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I'm using an inexpensive $50 - 60 HVLP. I'm still getting used to it but it seems to work OK.
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"do i have to use wood filer to Seal the grain, before i laquer? " Don't know about teak - never worked with it before.
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Very nice work, especially for a first one. For the cavity covers try some 1/8" wood of the same type or a conteasting color. I use spray lacquer - sometimes in aerosol cans but lately with a spray gun. BTW, smaller pictures would be good if you can. You can check the size by previewing your post before you post it.
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New semi-hollow electric project.
mdw3332 replied to Myka Guitars's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
Did you get that one at Musician's Friend also? Very nice work. How's the spalted maple coming along? I've started shooting lacquer on mine. -
Drak, what ratio of lacquer / thinner do you use. I've been doing 50 /50. Thanks.
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No, I don't do freehand unless I absolutely have to. BTW, a great investment for those who don't have a variable speed router is a speed controller. About $20 at Harbor Freight. Works great, and I hardly ever rout anything at full speed any more. Also works well on a random orbital sander to slow it down to buff / polish with Abralom and stuff like it.
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OK, a ground from the back of the pot to the bridge was all it needed. No hum. I'm not quite sure what I think of the sound - maybe a little thin, but you can hear the hollow body effect. The pups are cheap ones from an old Squier but I don't think I will bother changing them. I have several other projets that promise to be nicer, but this was a good learning experience - I covered the top, finished it, replaced the binding and covered the hole in the body where the controls were. As always, I am happily surprised that it looks sorta like a guitar and makes guitar like sounds when it is done.
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Thanks guys. I thought it might look a bit busy with an F hole and the big ol' pickguard although now that it is together I think a smallish one down in the lower right might have been cool. Oh well. LCG - I didn't get the accoustic bridge with the body and as the idea for adding the top and pickguard evolved, it seemed to make sense to use the StewMac top load hard tail and it actually sets up very nicely. The little I have played it ( without intonating), it appears that it will have a pretty varied sound with a really nice accoustic toneand it's going to come in at somewhere under $100 for the whole thing. I just realized something about the hum - I didn't ground anything to the body. Since the back is plastic-graphite (?) should I just run a ground to a part of the top?