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pariah223

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Everything posted by pariah223

  1. pariah223
    man now i see why no one is interested in my build ... great work Dan. Quick question about that "player hole".. does it make a big difference on how the guitar actually sounds to the player? I would guess that the higher frequencies are heard a little better to the player.. which would be awesome.
  2. pariah223
    I have looked around and can't seem to find the answer. I am thinking of putting a pearl or abalone purfling around the soundhole of my next guitar. I was just wondering how you get the pearl to match whatever radius channel you cut in the soundboard? Does the pearl bend? or do you have to buy it pre-cut to a certain radius? or is it something else... I have never dealt with pearl other than dots, so i have no idea. Thanks
  3. pariah223
    easier than mahogany? didnt know that was even possible. guess ill be looking into picking up some limba very soon. Where do you guys usually find yours? do you have a regular supplier or do you just shop around.
  4. pariah223
    Assuming your frets are cut right and your bridge is positioned correctly, you should only need fine tuning in the intonation. I beleive a quick way to check your intonation is to fret the 12th fret, and then play the 12th fret harmonic, and they should be the same. I dont think anyone really checks every single note on every string to make sure they are all in tune. From my understanding, if your 12th fret is in tune, and your open is in tune, then you should be in good shape as long as your frets are good. Someone please correct me if i am wrong.. im quite a novice
  5. pariah223
    I think there was a topic on using heat not that long ago.. and the general consensus was dont do it.. which i agree with. I beleive the other topic was using a furnace or something but either way.. i wouldnt put the wood under the extreme heat of a heat lamp. Take your time when doing finishing jobs... finishing seems like the most rushed process in guitar building. What type of guitar are you finishing? and what brand are you using as your nitro?
  6. pariah223
    how does limba react to bending? what wood would you compare it to? I would love to build a limba guitar like this, but i bend by hand, so i gota be careful not to go to complicated until i get it down real good.
  7. pariah223
    Ah i have never used lacquer out of a rattle can, but i have used automotive clear on a couple of guitars because i work in a body shop, so it was readily available and free and both guitars are still holding up just fine.
  8. pariah223
    did you use behlen instrument lacquer by any chance?
  9. pariah223
    by blocky do you mean the shape? or the thickness... If you mean the thickness, the picture is deceiving.. it is less than 1/16 thick, the corner just wasnt seated pefectly so the shadow makes it look thicker than it is.
  10. pariah223
    I guess i should have posted it in this section to begin with, but i didnt notice there was an "in progress' section until recently. ANyway, it is finally finished for those who have been following, and those who havnt.. well have a look, its over in the acoustic section under this thread... its a few pages long so either skip to the end, or follow the progress if your interested. Thanks to everyone who helped me through this! http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=35858
  11. pariah223
    well here they are, if anyone has any questions, comments, or wants to see any other angles, let me know! I still need to hit the bridge and pickguard with some lemon oil, but im all out, but thats not a big deal.
  12. pariah223
    so i am waiting for the camera to charge so i can photo the final version, and then maybe ill hook up my recording gear and play a few chords... But for now, here is a few weeks old progress with the finish applied in my hi tech spray booth
  13. pariah223
    its actually completed as of a couple hours ago, playing it now actually, will take pictures and post soon!
  14. pariah223
    in cumpiano's book.. it says you can drill a hole the size of the pin 1/16 down from the head of the pin, and that should be fine. I tried it, and the pin seats snug and is all the way down.. so i think this will actually work fine.
  15. pariah223
    this is a VERY common issue with anyone getting involved in woodworking. I found hand planes to be one of the toughest things to get decent at (i say decent because im still not great with them... but i have come a long way). If you search the forums, google it, or even check youtube... you will come accross hundreds of tutorials. There is so much to a plane blade. It sounds like you need to do some research on how to use a plane blade as it will give you better insight into sharpening. Thats where i made my mistake. I figured if i can sharpen a plane, i can use a plane, but sharpening is only half the struggle. If you are having trouble planing pine then you got some reading to do A second note... your working with pine for a guitar build? Ive never heard of it.. anyoen else?
  16. pariah223
    So i am just about at the point where i start setting up my acoustic build. All that is left to do is make the bridge, and the nut. I do not have nut files and i am sure there is an alternative but i want to get some opinions or ideas based on what you guys use if you dont use nut files. I also can't seem to find a tapered reamer anywhere for reaming the bridge pin holes to fit the tapered bridge pins. Is there any kind of alternative to that? or do i have to order a reamer? Thanks!
  17. pariah223
    When grain filler is applied, once it dries and you sand it, is the surface supposed to be perfectly flat at this point? or does the grain filler just seal up the pores, and then your sealer and finish does the rest?.. i have just applied grain filler to my acoustic and the grain definatly has the filler in it, but if i look really closely it dosnt look perfectly flush.. and im wondering if maybe i applied it wrong?
  18. pariah223
    Ive noticed with most of the good books out... i own both cumpiano and kinkaid's book... alot of the processes are kind of dated and people have found more efficient ways of doing things.. These forums and the internet cover much more than any of the said books... and you get a more realistic insight because you see how people struggle and how there processes evolve unlike in a book where the writer isnt making mistakes or modifications, he just shows how it is done and for the most part, doesn't acknowledge common pitfalls... MIMF (register to get to the library.. it took me a year to realize that) is an excellent resource. If you Google acoustic guitar building, you will find a bunch of people's projects from start to finish.
  19. pariah223
    kinkaid's book is decent but do yourself a favor and make sure if you use it... you use it loosely and not verbatim. What i would reccomend is if your about to start a chapter or a section.. read the entire chapter before continuing because a few times while going through the book... he leaves out a couple of important things that he later brings up and talks about them as if he mentioned them before.. There are also a few dimension issues mainly going from the book to the plans, so just double and triple check everything.. It is a good reference however and the pictures are nice large color photos. If you start using that book and are confused or have questions, PM me because i probibly had the same issues and resolved them
  20. pariah223
    no finish has been applied yet. For that matter, the holes havnt been counterbored yet for the bushings.. i was waiting to see how this thread developed first. I think i have plenty of info now to continue, thanks a million guys.
  21. pariah223
    on a side note.. and im pointint it out because it was pointed out to me. The way you cut your kerfing to fit your bracing in may cause some trouble. There is a whole bunch of info on a project i am working on thanks to fryovanni. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...15&start=15
  22. pariah223
    binding is ebony. Simple yet effective. I didn't wanna go to crazy with the little details for my first build.
  23. pariah223
    I dont see how you could possibly rout the binding channel with a neck attached. I did a dovetail joint on my guitar so i naturally attached the neck after everything was done... but in your case, you are going to have to get that neck off for the binding. Just make sure you use the right sized screwdriver bit and get the screwdriver as straight as possible. If i had to guess, i would say that you shouldnt need to torque the heck out of the screws to get them to the tightness needed... so getting them off shouldnt require the amount of force you would need to strip it out. But thats coming from an educated assumption... not experience.
  24. pariah223
    So its been a while, but i have been making good progress with the help of everyone answering my questions here on projectguitar. Here is the guitar ready to be finish sanded and finish applied.. I am still on the fence as to what finish to use, I want something kinda natural wood looking.. but at the same time i work in a body shop, so spraying a clearcoat is second nature to me. anyway here it is..
  25. pariah223
    when i use a spokeshave on the neck, what i end up doing is clamping the heel to the bench with the rest of it over hanging.. then i sit down (i have a drum stool that puts me at just the right height) and press the headstock into my stomach to support it, and then i can reach every angle and everything on the neck without having to reposition. As long as your blade is nice and sharp you should need little to no downward pressure so the neck wont be stressed with no support under it. Works great for me.
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