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pariah223

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  1. pariah223
    I have recently built a nice bending iron using a thermal couple to control the heat and a 200W lightbulb inside to heat it up. It works great and maintains whatever temp i want with ease. however, i am finding it hard to get the bends right at the waist and stuff and im wondering if its because my pipe is too big. i have a 4 inch diameter steel pipe that is perfectly round so it dosnt have a wider side and a more narrow side. I am just not sure if its too big or not. The waist radius is not that tight and im not doing any cut aways. The plans i am using are from Kinkaid's book which im sure some of you have.
  2. pariah223
    funny, i never actually noticed a guitar with a burst on the sides... what an awesome look. Guess i should open up my eyeballs a little wider
  3. pariah223
    ive heard maple is one of the easy woods, as long as its straight grain. What kind of bender are you getting together? a bending iron or a fox style?
  4. pariah223
    hm maybe i just got lucky then.. it just seemed too easy. I am using mahogany though and i assume thats probably the easiest wood to bend
  5. pariah223
    I recently got my bending iron up and running and had suprisingly good success bending a test piece of wood to a guitar shape. I realized afterward howerver that the wood was about .140 and the book i have recommends the wood be .90 thick. my question, which may or may not have an obvious answer is, is thinner wood more likely to crack or is it actually easier to bend to shape without cracking. I had no problems with my wood cracking at .140 thick, but i dont have another piece of test wood to test it out before i go doing the real thing so i was just wonder if anyuone knows the answer to this. Thanks!
  6. pariah223
    i have actually heard that you do want a gap between the plate and the braces... no idea why because this is all new to me, but thats what i heard as well. And you shouldnt have do sand any radius into something 1/8 thin should you? even if it is maple, which mine is, it should conform to such a small radius
  7. pariah223
    So, i got my soundboard all braced and its looking really good. The last thing i have left to glue is the bridge plate. I did the rest of it with the go-bar press i made and it worked flawlessly.. however the book i am using which is the kinkaid book, he does everything with the gobar.. and then does the bridgeplate with a g-clamp. He dosnt explain why (alot of that going on in that book), he just switches over. Is there any reason for this? Or do you guys use the gobar to glue it. Should i still glue it using my radius dish? or on a flat workboard? help!! Rob
  8. pariah223
    ive got a quick question relating to this topic. I am almost to the point of attempting to bend sides.. soundboard is just about done, so then i gota do the back and then its time to bend. I see that alot of people use these jigs as opposed to free bending. Is it really that hard to free bend wood over a hot pipe? or is this way just so much easier its worth the time and effort and money to build one and avoid the heartache of cracking a nice piece of wood
  9. pariah223
    i saw this one at lowes Bosch RA1171 its a similar cabinet style to the benchdog. laminated mdf top with an aluminum plate for mounting the router. 169.00 at lowes, so its not a bad price. ANyone use this guy?
  10. pariah223
    I am looking to buy a router table. I have been using my dads, but he has a cheap 50 dollar craftsman that is about as flat as a sheet of plywood. I was just wondering what you guys use as your router table. I am looking to spend between 100 and 150 dollars, so im not looking for anything crazy, just flat, sturdy, and durable. thanks!
  11. pariah223
    I am having trouble hand planing or sanding on my workbench because it slides all over the place.. i am looking for a solution to this other then mounting it into the concrete floor because sadly, that is not an option.. are there good non slip feet i can throw on it? for now i just put it up against a wall, but its a real pain to do so because if you have a small shop like me.. you know getting to the wall is never as simple as moving the bench in a straight line. Thanks!
  12. pariah223
    ah i got ya, not sure if it had attachments for holding tapered objects nwo that i think about it. All my vises dont do that anyway so i am used to shims in the vise hah.. what kinda vise do you got?
  13. pariah223
    good approach. ANy books or resources on the anatomy of a guitar, or the history of the guitar are great reads to get more familiar with them. When i built my first guitar, i had never even heard the term scale length, and never noticed that some necks were angled back due to the carving on the top. My approach was to learn through building, but in the process, i read a great book, which i cant remember the name of, that was all about the anatomy of the guitar. Melvyn hiscock's book has the first few chapters dedicated to all this stuff if i remember correctly. Have fun and keep us posted!
  14. pariah223
    i didnt really look at the website or anything for zvise, but in person, the guy was going through all you can do with it and it was about a half hour demonstration because of how versitle the thing is. There were certain ways to set it up so it could swivel, there were ways to set it up so it could hold 8 foot boards.. it could be used as a drill press and a lathe with a power drill, used for joining picture frames and joints like that. and it was only 199 at the show, as opposed to 300... i really wish i bought it.
  15. pariah223
    What a blast, i suggest you check out http://www.thewoodworkingshows.com/ and see if its coming near you. Anyone who has been to one of these know how much fun they can be. Has anyone heard of, or used the z-vise. They had a rep at this show and this thing looked like a guitarmakers best friend. I was going to pick one up but didnt because i already spent alot of money on other smaller stuff and im a little tight in the bank right now. Very cool tool, will probibly pick one up next year if the show comes around again.
  16. pariah223
    are you looking to build guitars? or jsut want to know more about them?
  17. pariah223
    It has alot to do with what kind of sound you are trying to achieve and what music you like to play in my opinion. I personally dislike active pickups when compared to passive pickups just because i dont like the harshness in the tone i get using actives. 2 guitars ago i put an emg 85 in the bridge (81 is usually the emg bridge pickup but i like the more warm tone given by the 85) and while the guitar sounded good... it just didnt feel right.. it wasnt what i was going for. I then built a guitar and put seymour duncan passives in it... quarter pounder i beleive and i absolutly love the tone and response of the guitar. My advice would be go to a music store like guitar center and play alot of different pickups to try and get a feel for what they sound like and what you are looking for.
  18. pariah223
    this may be asking an obvious question... but you never know.... did you wet the wood? if so how long?
  19. pariah223
    what i always did was drill halfway through the back, then halfway through the front to join them. The bit may walk a little bit on you but if you do it this way, you wont notice the results being off on either side if that makes any sense. You shouldnt have enough walk that it would make the holes not meet.. otherwise you did something really wrong. This also greatly lowers the chance of any kind of blowout when the drill leaves.... because the drill never leaves. Good luck!
  20. pariah223
    Welcome to the forum. Anytime i have a guitar that strings through the body i use string ferrules. Im not sure if you NEED them or not because im pretty sure with a bridge like that, the string end would catch on the bridge itself but im not completely sure. I would say yes to ferrules.. just make sure you drill perfectly straight because even the slightest bit off and it will stick out like a sore thumb on the back because they are the only thing going on back there really. good luck, and lets see some pics of this guitar
  21. pariah223
    anyone else chuckle when they saw those boards? Makes my wood that i have not look bad at all... which brings me to a question related to this topic. How much warpage is acceptable in the back and front boards when building an acoustic. I have some nice mahogany for my back that is slightly warped, but its not too bad. Will the bracing tend to pull the wood in if its not that bad? or will the warping wanna pull away the braces? Id post a picture but i cant find my camera cord.
  22. pariah223
    thanks for the review Rich, im a big tool collector as of late so stuff like this gets my wheels turning. I was actually on there site the other day looking at there honing guide. I have a cheap stanley one now that came in a package of a honing guide, a stone, and oil for 15 bucks, so as you can imagine.. the guide aint the best but thats all i could find locally. I am going to a woodworkers show this weekend and im sure i can pick up a veritas there so let me know if i should!
  23. pariah223
    what kind of equipment/woodworking experience do you have?
  24. pariah223
    ah yes i have seen that picture before... i finally figured out how to use the mimf library as well, couldnt find it and realized i had to register.. anyway, im done hijacking this post, back to you carousel
  25. pariah223
    as long as your using a pretty new router bit ( not dull) and you rout the right way (link to stew mac above) you really shouldnt have any tear out. Just dont rush it and try to take the cut in one pass... when i rout things like that, i do it it multiple passes and i just make sure i cant feel any resistance in the router. If i can feel the bit cutting and i feel resistance... i back off until i can only hear it cutting. Works for me so far 5 guitars later. Good luck!
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