MP63
-
Posts
333 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
News and Information
Tutorials
Product Reviews
Supplier Listings
Articles
Guitar Of The Month
Links and Resources
Forums
Gallery
Downloads
Everything posted by MP63
-
I'd build it. I would probably need to add a piezo pickup. Something has to amplify it. I have a Rickenbacker 330/12 and that thing sounds beautiful unplugged, but it ain't loud at all. Weird shapes can sound great. Fender had an unusual shaped acoustic years ago. Looked sort of like a Stratocaster. The worst thing would be you having to add a pair of PAF's on it. Do it and good luck.
-
Is there anyone who might know of a way to copy a little logo I have made? I want the image resized and copied onto a single paper, where I can have 10 images to a sheet. I have decal paper and want to print as many as I can on it. The drawing is of a a little man with a name next to it. If anyone is willing, I can even email the image to them. I can do it, if somewone tells me how. I have Windows XP and don't know if that'll do it. I do not have Photoshop, not do I know how to do it even if I did have Photoshop.. Thanks for any help, Mike
-
I hate you for making something so increadible...only joking. Really is a work of art. Wow.
-
I have a 2" slab of the stuff. What I have used, reminds me of oak. Hard and brittle. Very dense.
-
For me, it was Irving Sloane's Steel String Guitar Construction. Simple and tailored for the person who may not want to invest the thousands that many here have.
-
Here's my plan: I have two humbuckers and I plan on using two volumes pots., one for each pickup. As I am one who always has the tone on '10', why have a tone pot? I am guessing that a capacitir is out, but will a 250K be OK? I have several 250K pots I want to get rid of and use. I am building a guitar with all my left-over pieces. Thanks for the help, Mike
-
Would I even need a capacitor then?
-
Would I change anything regarding the capacitors and tone pot?
-
I have several 250K pots. and want to know if there's any way to use them with humbuckers? Will any change in capacitors work just as good as using 500K pots? Thanks. Mike
-
Thanks fellas. I wasn't sure if anyone used that, and with good results too. Mike
-
Try Seymour Duncan's site. They have lots. Mike
-
I did it the way Lowrider shows it. Once the neck wood was dead-flat straight, I cut the angle with a cross cut saw, by hand. I used scrapers to get as close to perfect to the angle. I then sanded the headstock piece by dragging it against a sheet of sandpaper, keeping the hand very steady. The neck needed no sanding as it was smoothed already, as the glueing is on the non-cut side. That was if for me. The hardest part was gluing it up. I had to clamp the neck and headstock on its side and use stops to keep the pieces from drifting away from each other while clamping. Keep the pieces at 90 degrees from the table while clamped. Important. I used cauls and lots of clamps. The joint was perfect. I hope it helps brother. Mike http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c386/MP63/Picture046.jpg http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c386/MP63/Picture044.jpg
-
Here are my options: Use a one piece flat-sawn cut of wood for the neck, or cut the piece in half and have it make a quarter-sawn neck, but the glue joint will be where the truss rod sits. Does anyone foresee a problem with thr truss rod resting on top of a glue joint? Thanks.
-
I have one coat of clear nitro on a repair. How long should I wait to apply shellac to it? Thanks, Mike
-
How about epoxy over shellac? What I really want to keep is the color of blonde shellac over mahogany. That's the main desire. Thanks, Mike
-
Here's what I'm proposing. Mahogany body sealed with behlen's blonde shellac; Stew Mac's water based CLEAR grain filler; finished with KTM-9 (water based finish)? Anyone see any problems? Thanks in advance. Mike
-
Anybody know what kind of glue Gibson uses for the binding? The regular LMI/StewMac glue ain't holding tight to the fret ends. Thanks, MP
-
Is there a minimum thickness recommended under the fret slot? I think I slotted too deep and wanted to see if the fretboard can be saved. Thanks, Mike
-
I have found 2 degrees a minimum. Depending on the bridge height and the fingerboard height.
-
I found that the height was more inportant. I planed down the height until it was just over the height of the fingerboard, this way the binding tape won't make the binding lean toward the fretboard towards the center from pressure. I also like it a bit thicker than the ledge where it sits.
-
Affixing Pearloid Material To Guitar
MP63 replied to S F Thompson's topic in Inlays and Finishing Chat
I thought of using that stuff they use for drum shells. Lots of options from the manufacture's. I was going to use 30min. epoxy and a corked piece of wood for pressure. -
I use lawn trimmer line. Way better than colored pencil. Colored pencil runs with solvent I found out. To keep the line round, I trim it with a chisel. I press the chisel against the line as I roll the line under the chisel. It cuts as it rolls. Mike
-
I like the double-action rods too. In case you have the neck back bow, due to climate changes or install fat frets with light strings. It is slim that it'll happen, but if it does, you have a way to adjust the neck.... Oh, and wait for the rod to show up. That way you'll have the exact length, in case there is a slight variation.
-
Jackson made ALL their thru-the-neck guitars with poplar sides and a maple center piece. The Charvel's were poplar bodies with maple bolt-on necks. For sure that was during 1984-1986. I personally like the green and grey streaks in the wood. It'll work.
-
Can you use sanding sealer on an epoxy filled guitar? The guitar is half maple and the maple didn't get filled with epoxy. I just want to sand and seal it all at once. Thanks, Mike
