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ihocky2

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Everything posted by ihocky2

  1. ihocky2
    Pine can be difficult to get to stain evenly. Like maple and cherry, pine has different densities throughout the grain structure. Some absorb stain like a sponge some do almost nothing and you get a blotchy result. It can take a while to get some of those woods to stain evenly. That is why a lot of people spray tinted clear over them, you get the color you want and not blotching. The other option is gel stain, it is a lot thicker so it doesn't soak in and get blotchy, but it also covers any figuring.
  2. ihocky2
    I love the fretboard and the binding and inlays.
  3. ihocky2
    You take the strings off, mark the center of the frets you need and do exactly like that tutorial says. For dots all you have to do is drill holes and then sand the dot down flush with the board.
  4. ihocky2
    go to the project guitar main site and look through the tutorials. There should be one on there about how to make your own palstic dots if you don't want to buy them. You will need a drill press though and a 1/4" brad point or forstner bit. A normal jobbers bit won't work.
  5. ihocky2
    From your picture, Syxx's idea seems like it would work. Your picture shows just the base color in the hex area with the openings colored in a burst. Lay the chicken wire down (find some way to fasten it so it doesn shift and cause problems) after you spray the amber base coat and then spray your burst. You'll be left with a burst that has the amber base showing in a hex pattern.
  6. ihocky2
    String trees are easy to find, most guitar stores will have several styles in stock. Just drill a small hole a few mm's deep and screw the tree down so it sits evenly between the two strings. As for the nut, you need to d oa lot of searching a reading here and google is a good bet. You have to make sure the strings are precisely spaced and spaced evenly. And then there is shaping the nut, the slots, and setting the action to the right height. Not hard to do, but takes a little practice and some tools that are more than common hardware store tools. You would probably do best finding the needle files and X-Acto saw at a hobby store. But the files need to be the same size as the string gauges, maybe .001 thicker, but not more than that.
  7. ihocky2
    I also depends on what type of finish was used. If it is 2 part poly, forget anything other than marine or aircraft stripper. All the other stuff will do is waste money. It will barely soften those 2 part paints, they are made to resist chemicals. Like was already suggested, do you know that the wood will look nice when you strip it down, you could be in for a nasty surprise. Any type of finish that is rubbed down with steel wool, or even uses flattening agents to acheive either a flat or satin finish, always over time gets glossy areas. Just playing the guitar for years will rub certain areas and polish them up.
  8. ihocky2
    So far the only one I have used is PPG Shopline and have to say that I am happy with it. Now I also have nothing to compare against. The only reason I went with PPG is that there are no dealers of HOK close buy and shipping is insane with the hazard fee tacked on. I flowed out pretty nicely, only minor orange peal and that was just me getting the gun tuned in perfect, and it sanded really nicely for me. I also was on a budget and wanted something 2 part, but that would not break the bank.
  9. ihocky2
    I can't say I am an expert, but one thing I can add is that using alcohol to mix your dyes makes a big difference. It barely raises the grain if it does at all.
  10. ihocky2
    There is really no way to know what brand that body is. I would measure the width of the neck pocket. If it is a 2-3/16" neck, then I would just get a replacement neck for a Fender pocket which is 2-1/4" wide. Then just make a template to match the neck and adjust the existing pocket as needed.
  11. ihocky2
    Try using the search function, there is a ton of info on this already. Look through the tutorials section as well.
  12. ihocky2
    I have seen many times people talking about using a high quality poly like HOK or one of the higher and lines of PPG and saying that it is better than the low grade stuff such as the Kustom Kolors or PPG Omni line. I was wondering what the main differences are. Other than having a higher solids content what makes HOK better than Kustom Kolors. With your gun set up right and the right thinning they should both flow out just fine. And I have seen where some of the higher end lines from PPG are known to wet sand like granite while some of the mid grades are very pleasant to sand. While you still want the abbrasion resistance I would thik easier sanding would be a plus.
  13. ihocky2
    Where did you find the HOK rattle cans with polyester in them? Last time I looked at those they didn't say anything on the can, but doing my own reseach I came up with acrylic lacquer in the cans. I may be interested in trying those if they are actual polyester.
  14. ihocky2
    The polyester clear coat the HOK makes is not the same as what is in the spary cans. The poly's and acrylics that are the very duarable ones are two parts and I have yet to find any where that offers the 2k mixing cans for HOK. I have seen other brands just not HOK. The stuff at the hobby stores is made in partner with Plastikote and is acrylic lacquer. Not nearly as durable and may cause finishing incompatabilities. I have one guitar sprayed with the rattle can HOK and then cleared with DEFT Nitro lacquer and had no problems, but that is not always a guarantee. Test first.
  15. ihocky2
    Do not allow tung oil to lay on too heavy. You want to apply the oil, give it a few minutes to penetrate and to cure a little, and then wipe off the excess. If you leave too much on it can develop white or cloudy spots in it that require complete refinishing. Only apply one coat a day. It will also take about 3 months for tung oil to completely cure.
  16. ihocky2
    Well you are pretty much out of luck with and type of transparent colors. A black base is always going to either make the color look extremely drak or just black. So that limits you to opaque colors. The good thing though, is pretty much almost anything will stand out then. Just stay away from other dark colors.
  17. ihocky2
    Very nice work. Especially for a first build. Everything looks nice and clean and I love the look of the natural wood.
  18. ihocky2
    First thing is that finding candy colors in a spray can is tough. Some autobody suppliers will make up a two part poly can, but you have to make sure you have the right respiratory equipment because that stuff is very dangerous to breath. Second, any candy color over a black base is not going to really show at all. It is just going to look black. Third, you might want to slow down and practice. If you were getting nothing but runs, you are not spraying correctly. If you are in that much of a rush that this info is urgent and you can't practice, you are probably going to end up with a disaster. Plus very few of the rattle can clears dry quick enough that it would be usable in less than a few weeks.
  19. ihocky2
    I would make it as wide and long as the slots and I probably wouldn't go more than 3/8" deep, 1/4" should probably be fine.
  20. ihocky2
    The first guy who inspired me to pick up a guitar is Chris Caffery of Trans-Siberian Orchestra and Savatage and his solo work. Something about seeing him play just spoke to me and made me want to do what he does. After learning more about him I learned of Criss Oliva, and the same thing, just hearing him play made me feel like I needed to do that. Others that are high on my list are Alex Skolnick Ted Nuggent George Lynch Django Reinhardt Eddie Van Halen
  21. ihocky2
    Follow whatever the instructions on the can say to wait for sanding. Probably a few days to harden up enough to sand nicely. I would just do a quick level sanding since it is not going to be very thick. You should sand it off in no time with 600 or 800 grit.
  22. ihocky2
    Which truss rod do you have. Some need a curved channel, some don't. Without knowing which rod it is, we can;t give an answer. As for the length, yes make the channel as long as the rod is. If you are making a head end adjust, I like to place the truss rod nut so that the end of it is roughly under the string nut. Just go with the full length of the rod from there.
  23. ihocky2
    I understand what you are saying, and I don't think you are going to get the look you want with any type of oil finish. Since they soak in a little and all have at least a slight ambering effect you are going to get a wetter look. The only thing I can think that might get the look you want is one of the water white lacquers or varnishes or poly's. They seem to leave the color pretty much the same as when you are done sanding.
  24. ihocky2
    This is building a custom guitar to your liking, so there are no hard and fast rules about body shape or size. If you make it 11" or even 10-1/2" wide, but adjust the rest of the bodies length, vrey few people are going to notice that it is a little narrower.
  25. ihocky2
    What kind of oil did you use last time? Danish oil will give you a satin finish. Rub it out with a little 0000 steel wool and it dulls down a little more.
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