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Xanthus

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  • Birthday 03/27/1987

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    Boston, MA

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  1. Nope, that's a Nuno thing. I personally wouldn't trust it Just doesn't look stable enough. How is the Steve's Special? I'm thinking about getting one for my new project, and a leftover PAF Pro in the bridge.
  2. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...oductId=2062543 I put one in my second build, and honestly I didn't end up using it all that much.....
  3. You could put your own fretboard on and use wood binding, that way you can cut the frets like normal. Not sure if that would be too much work for you to get what you want. But as far as I know, the only way to get the binding look on a fretboard is to use binding of some kind I would definitely not suggest dying the edges of the fretboard. I only foresee bad things happening.
  4. Suttle, you are a MASTER. It blows me away every time. I love everything you did except for the viking letters on the headstock. Comes off as a little self-explanatory to me. One big rune would have been plenty for me, but hey. Just those three purpleheart inserts are enough to hold the headstock on again?
  5. Right-o, back with them pictures I promised! The work so far: bubinga set-neck with flamed maple stringers, rosewood fretboard 25.5", and the test body headstock with great grain from cutting across the bubinga blank. Traditionally this would be concern because of runout, but the sheer strength of the bubinga and the fact that it's a 5pc quartersawn blank make me laugh. I WANT to keep the great looking grain on the headstock, but I'll need to add just a bit of wings (under .5" each side). Not sure how to get the grain to match up well enough to not use a headstock veneer. Watched the Perry multiscale video endless times. I have the wedges that I cut from the headstock, so I'm looking for matching pieces there. Also, I've been toying with the idea of a reverse headstock. Thoughts? I've never played one. It's a little more radical than usual, just didn't know the general consensus. 3/4 shot with the fretboard held on. used a 1/16" bit in the first and last fret to attach it to the board when I glue it up tonight. Worked like a DREAM! one and two, mockups with the test body. Here's where I've been mulling things over, and would really like the opinion of the Academy. I generally get my wood from HERE. It's right down the street, lots of choices. Being inspired by Drak's recent work, I was toying with the idea of doing a topped RG. I just don't know what woods to use. I wanted to use a nice chunky, warm wood like mahog - which is still the go-to plan - but wanted to change it up a bit. I was thinking about getting black limba, if only because it's more interesting to look at than mahogany and would look great, presumably, with the 1/2" bevel, but this place only has it in 3/4". Then I was thinking about doing a black limba top with mahog back. Would this be moot, seeing as the two woods are very similar? I know some people, like Myka, like limba far more than mahog. I could go back to the place I got the neck blank for and get more bubinga, but I feel it would make the tone too sharp. Lacewood might be nice - would have to look at what pieces they have. A bit more expensive than I'd like to spend though.
  6. Good luck on both this and wiring up The Dragon, John! I'm praying for the hairs on your head these next few days.
  7. The combined tonal spectrum of up to FIFTEEN woods!
  8. Well, if you don't count inferior wood, shoddy workmanship, and low-quality hardware "structural differences" I have seen people fill in the swimming pool with wood, but I doubt tonal quality or sustain are going to improve that much from a tiny block of "good" wood. Else, that Yamaha space guitar would have taken off like wildfire. If anything, the benefits would be less bleeding between pickups/microphonics/that sort of stuff, because there are three (or two) pickups occupying the same swimming pool. In that case, you could save your good wood and just stuff it with foam or something.
  9. No prob, Drak! Do you have any other pictures of doing the neck heel like this? I'm curious to see what it's going to look like under paint or oil. And yes, the back does resemble the shuttle Tyderium Makes me happy. In fact, thinking about it again, this build is definitely about the long, elegant lines. Maybe a upper fret cutout would mess with the appeal. And it would take away some of that top.........
  10. Les Claypool's Carl Thompson Rainbow Bass :-D Plywood! What, it counts, right?
  11. I was actually thinking of using leftover bubinga from my neck. At the rate it's going through sandpaper, a block of that might be a contender
  12. I was halfway through asking myself "why didn't he bevel the back too?" when I scrolled down and saw the pictures haha Not too sure about the DRABMAT idea. I stole the Alexi fret access cutout and it works like a dream. I'm just one of those guys who doesn't like frets over the body I guess. How are you affixing the cavity cover, metal brackets?
  13. The action is way too high. How will you ever be able to fret it?
  14. hahahaha, Joe I thought we all knew that one or two drops of yellow dye can change the whole look! Have to say this is one of the most beautiful builds to come down the forums in a while. Absolutely love it!
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