zandro

Muahahahahaha I'm so evil! Based on the suspicion that this guy is selling the LOTR collection when he is not authorized to do so, I sent an email to Tolkien Enterprises. I asked them if he was a valid bookseller and mentioned that I suspected he wasn't. I'd do the same thing for the Stephen King works, but I can't get to www.stephenking.com right now. If we can't find an easy legal way to get him to stop selling our stuff without permission, we can at least make his life hell, no?

That's a good idea, but who really wants to spend $5 + shipping to bust this guy? And I'd rather not take a negative feedback and ruin my perfect record just to bust a lowlife. It is a good idea as a last resort, though, if we can't find an easy legal way to get him to stop.

Trying to pick an option in this poll is like trying to find a needle in a haystack! Oh Jehle, you have forever cursed this board.

Also keep in mind the StewMac Fret Tang Crimper. It crimps the tangs so they fit in wider slots. However, it's $37.55 [what?! StewMac overcharging for something?! NO!!], so it'd be way cheaper just to find some fretwire that fits.

Wow, sweet! Thanks a lot, I'd appreciate knowing what a real artist or arty-type thinks.

Well later today I'm going to modify the design a bit and see if I can get it "right." I had a quick question, though. [Disclaimer: I'm not trying to be argumentative, I just want to get as much information as possible. ] Wes, you claim that have the edge of the body that close to the neck pickup will lead to an unstable area there. I guess I'm thinking of a different aspect of stability than you are. Say I build it as is and it is unstable there - what might cause it to break? By unstable I assumed you meant the string tension might cause a break, but are you thinking of failure due to some other cause? Thanks for the comments so far everyone. I love this forum.

Figures. Takes legal threats to get any action out of the guy. I hate that attitude. "Well, this guy asked me nicely to stop selling his stuff without his consent, obviously he can't be serious, so I'll keep doing it." Getting his domain shut down for selling stolen goods is a great idea, but it shouldn't have come to that. His domain should've been shut down a long time ago because his web page is so UGLY!

Some miscellaneous information I've just gathered: The "email the bidders and tell them it's a rip off" plan won't work. His guitar auctions are private, so you can't see the bidders' email addresses. Clever, but shady and utterly dishonest. There's no valid reason for those auctions to be private, other than the fact that he knows he's doing something wrong. Also, check out this page: http://betterbytes.net/internetlistings.htm Scroll down to the "miscellaneous library set." He's selling the Lord of the Rings trilogy and 47 books by Stephen King. That's a copyright violation for sure - unless this guy is an authorized bookseller .. which, you know, is likely given his honest and upstanding nature.

Where in the world have I been that I've totally missed this topic?! None of my work is included [as I have yet to do any work] but I wish you luck, Jehle and everyone else. That guy is the lowest of the low. Besides the ProjectGuitar stuff and the skateboard ramp stuff, he also sells "educational CD-ROMs" which, from what I can gather from his feedback, are nothing but screenshots of whatever program. Maybe we could get Microsoft to bring some heat down.

Yeah, I think that's the problem I'm having. The horns just .. aren't right. You offer some great advice, I just hope I have the patience to take it.

Even being a neck through? How deep does a pickup rout go? What if I "moved" the arc out so that it intersected at the 22nd fret? Thanks for the comment on the headstock. well... guitars are usualy 1.75"ish thick and routs can be up to 1" deep but i only go about 0.50" and just rout little holes on either side of the ears/wings of the pickups, that'll help alot ot keep more strength going to the neck ,and just leave a bit of a heel on the guitar neck, nothing hudge, just enough to gain some support, like even something rounded out to the 21st fret would help. i don't think the headstock suits the guitar, although it is nice, something more along the designs of the guitar might suit.... but i can't think of anything better right now. i keep trying to imagine the body with some graphics, or holes, or carvnings... is there going to be an arm rest and gut cut?? i like the shape but i tihnk it's missing something too What about a big old fashioned Hour glass painted on the body behind the bridge? make the guitar like a Dr Who theme guitar? just something with the ass end of the guitars... it's so big, you can't not put a design on there I guess I should clear up some confusion with everyone by stating this guitar is going to be made using the Carvin pre-made neck-through neck. I don't think neck support will really be that big of a deal with the neck pickup where it is. For one thing, I think having the mounting ring there gives the illusion that it's closer to the edge than it is. Also, I will still keep a decent sized heel on the neck past the body. And I'll make sure to use Krazyderek's suggested routing method. The wings will be made of hondurany mahogany, and the pickup tabs will be mounted in it, which will help keep the wings on [in case the Titebond isn't enough] and leave a shallower rout on the maple. The finish is going to be just a clear coat - I want the natural wood look. As far as graphics, I can see what you mean, with the butt being so empty. However, if I do it as a flat-top, it will have arm rest and tummy cuts - or I may do as I mentioned before and do a JS style "rounding." I see what you mean about the headstock not matching the body. I half-way agree with you on that one. What about a headstock similar to the one on Brian Moore Guitars? Think that might look better? Wes - the body can only be 1.7" thick - the thickness of the extension on the Carvin neck. But I think that should be sufficient - especially given that the neck has two graphite rods in it? Still not sure if I like this body shape yet but it's growing on me.

I'm not sure. It's going to be a flat-top probably, though I am thinking about "rounding" the body like the Ibanez JS guitars. As far as the pointy bits, they show up that way because of the scale of the drawing. Once I get it printed up [if I choose to go with this body] it'll be more curved, and I will sand it to make sure it's not pointy.

Even being a neck through? How deep does a pickup rout go? What if I "moved" the arc out so that it intersected at the 22nd fret? Thanks for the comment on the headstock.

Yeah, I'm not so much worried about other people liking it necessarily. I'm just not sure if *I* like it. It seems to be the right shape, yet not. I don't know. I wasn't going for anything revolutionary. Originally I wanted to combine a PRS headstock with a Rickenbacker Dakota body, and somehow that shape is what came out. It's sort of similar to the Yamaha RBX series basses. Bleh. Maybe I'll have a more definitive or objective opinion tomorrow.

Well, I wasn't so much worried about anything being "wrong," just wanted some opinions on the aesthetics. Is it ugly? I'm too close to the project to look at it objectively and say, "yeah, that's just butt-ugly."

It's neck-through, mate.

Hey all, been spending some time drawing up what I want my guitar to look like in CADKey. I've come up with something but .. I dunno, it's the general shape I want, but it seems .. not right somehow. So could you let me know what you think? Wide picture below: Sorry for the mess at the connection of the fretboard to the body, but I don't want to trim that yet. The holes in the headstock are the tuner locating holes. I haven't placed the controls yet 'cause I'm not sure if I'm going to use this body or draw another one. I appreciate anyone giving me an opinion!

LSR tuners are cool. The hype comes from the fact that they have a 40:1 ratio, and the pull the string linearly instead of rotating it around a shaft. But they're like $100 a set. You can get two sets of Grover locking tuners - which have an 18:1 ratio - for that price.

Yeah, Tony Levin is a pretty good stick player - he played it some on the Liquid Tension Experiment albums. Also, John Myung from Dream Theater will pull out the stick occasionally. The Stick site also some has some videos of some people who are crazy good with it. I think it'd be fun to mess around with. Were I filthy rich, I'd have one just to play every once in awhile.

Neck through on an archtop might be a little difficult, but not impossible. Sounds cool man!

I will be careful. I'm thinking of making it a "longer" angle. Right now, it's abrupt - a 3 fret taper. I plan on blending it over at least 5 frets. But then again, it'll depend on the body. Not sure what shape I'm going for yet.

The only axes I've ever seen dual truss rods on are many-stringed basses [with the odd exception of the Rickenbacker 4003]. Here's a good pic, you can see the adjustment holes:

I just finished unpacking my NT6K neck from Carvin .. Oh my lord! This thing is too good to be true! The fretwork is unbelievable, the inlays are spot-on, the nut is great, the truss rod cover is sweet. This thing just rules all around! Highly recommended from me. I figured this neck would have a scarf joint, but to my surprise, it's one-piece! And the volute is awesome! The only bad thing about it is that the heel is way too big - it tapers from the 18th fret to the 15th. But I'm gonna fix that. I like the thickness of it - not as beefy/round as my LP, but not as thin as a Wizard. Two thumbs up!

Yeah, that's true. It's almost required to have the adjustment at base of the neck if you use two truss rods.

I have no idea of the connection/audio quality but I'm putting a Neutrik locking jack in my project [when or if I get to that point].