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About kingfisher

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  • Birthday 01/23/1950

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    West Yorkshire UK

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  1. Thanks Wes, don't fancy head end, but those long allen keys may solve the problem.
  2. I am currently building my first acoustic, a Selmer Django Reinhardt copy (the one with the small oval soundhole). I am not looking for full authenticity here, and I wish to fit an adjustable truss rod, one of those threaded rod in an aluminium channel things. How do I do this? If I fit the rod to the length of the neck, it will be nearly impossible to adjust (small soundhole, long way from neck) Should I make a longer neck that reaches inside the body nearer to the soundhole or what? Or should I look round for a long allen key? Anybody done this?
  3. Mine neither. (fortunately) Actually it is not expensive and actually it does dry clear. It is waterproof though.- (why is that a bad thing?)
  4. And as regards tuners, in an ideal world I would like one with a readout of the actual cycles per second, but I don't know if anyone makes (an affordable) one. Also, maybe we are a bit at cross purposes here. Are the Earvana and Feiten systems more designed to give a better compromise for chords? (we all know if you tune to a perfect sounding open E chord at the bottom of the neck, and then play a C chord, again in the first position, the C chord sounds way out). This would explain the Satriani thing, depends on what you are playing - if you were only playing E shapes up and down the ne
  5. Using 17.818 on a 650 mm scale I get 324.989 = 325 - 0.011 Using 17.817 on a 650 mm scale I get 325.002 = 325 + 0.002 I stand corrected on that point. John. As for the Earvana stuff, that is irrelevant to the argument. My theory ONLY relates to the octaves. Earvana assumes perfect octaves and is dealing with the stuff inbetween. !7.817(ish) will not give you perfect octaves, so presumably the Earvana stuff is a non starter without you sort that first.
  6. What do you mean "rusty old door hinge" The tailpiece is a repurposed ferrous artefact covered with a copper/zinc alloy, originally designed for variation of angular placement relative to a entrance frame. When I get a minute (too busy worrying about Rooney's ankle at the moment), I will redo the experiment with different string gauges. I purposely used the most commonly used top E gauge, and set the "action" to what I would regard as pretty damned good at the 12 fret. We already know that thicker strings behave differently, - your bridge is never straight, - but on the other hand w
  7. And the crappy aluminium zinc parts bend over time. I know this.
  8. Well they stick aeroplanes together with it - hence the name
  9. Aerolite 306 I use it for neck and body laminations and find it to be the business, yet it is never mentioned on here? Anybody else use it?
  10. Wes, I agree with everything you say - but - (you knew there would be a "but" didn't you) - I am not looking for perfection because I don't think it exists, I am just trying to involve in the equation the fact that we have to press a string down to get any other note than open. 17.818 (or 17.817) takes no account of that at all, and I think it should. In fact my experiment (within experimental error) proves it should. Do you think the neck profile needs some work?
  11. Yes normal action. This is why there are 2 frets on the slidy bit. I too expect to get different results with different gauges, as we know the usual bridge compensation differs with gauge, probably a fan fret system could compensate for some of this. (ie a different divisor for top E and bottom E), but then we are getting into the realm of specialist instruments (harder to sell?). Consistency will be difficult without more accurate measuring equipment. For now, as I say, I regard this as an improvement, invisible to the user, but tunes a bit better. If anyone would care to duplicate my
  12. In the spirit of modern experimentation, I thought I would build a guitar to try see what happens - As you can see, it is built from exotic timbers and is minimalist in form, having just one string (9 thou). The action is normal to low, and requires pressing the string down. (9 is our best selling gauge by the way) First I set the bridge and nut 650mm apart (- they are both fixed), and tuned it to E, using the tuner in the picture. Next I slid the movable frets to about halfway, and moved back and forth, until I hit E again. Nut to fret distance 323.8mm Up another octave, nut
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