spazzyone

Ive got my line 6 spider 2 x 50 watt 2x12 on here and listed on ebay for $150 works perfect and a money back garuntee to boot http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...E%3AIT&rd=1 ill whack $25 off for forum members only

that converts to 16.9 inches so an ibanez nut sounds like a good bet

Im almost done recording samples (downstairs neighbor limits my time) i had to put the "Pickup" in my ibanez as it has the best fret dress of all my guitars. But while my high E sustains its fairly soft. Its a 10 gauge and i tried a 13 B string it improved but still to much tension. so i shifted the notes to the B string on the ibanez. As its 24 frets so it just makes it (on with or without you). As for Eurpoa does anyone know how i can slow it down a little without changing pitch? its good as a sample but if i can "stretch it " i can realy make the sustainer sing. Thanks

the ground on the jack is the middle ring and usualy has a braided wire going to it and for a pic here http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d38/femf...capresister.jpg you could remove the ground from what ever it connects to inside the guitar then solder what you removed to one end of this resister/cap then solder the other end back to where you removed it from and listen to primal aluminum does not solder well your better off with self stick copper pic courtesy of Dan Earlwine's book Guitar Player Repair Guide

you wire the cap (.001uf) with a voltage rating 0f 500 v with a resister(220k ohm) in paralell cut the ground from the jack and wire it to one side of the cap/resister the other end of cap/resister to the back of your tone pot hope this helps

Im posting this here first to see if any members are interested. Line 6 2x50 watt 2 x 12 fair condition works fine. just some tears in the tolex mostly on bottom and a few nicks here and there a couple scratches on grill. Original speakers are almost unused as its had EV12L's almost from the begining asking $150 shipping will be actual cost or its going on fleabay also a used Dimarzio "double whammy" check web site for specs $30 obo and a used Ibanez edge pro 3 bridge cosmo black a little faded make an offer

i just measured three switches holes and i get 3/16"x1' here is a tip i find that most three and five way switches to be of the same size so what i did was to chop a switch so i just have the mounting part i then screw this where i want to locate my switch then i use a downward spiral dremel bit (Forget exactly what size) and route through the the slot using it as a guide works great and very precise

Is it a compound Radius like most of their necks ? if it is the nut would be 10" the last fre 16" Ive never heard of a 15" nut if its 16" the length of the board then im sure warmoth would sell a nut to fit it

Is this a "traditional" strat IE belly cut/ forearm bevel ? if it is and its a sunburst you could gradually build up the edge with laquer or whatever your finish is. if not you could bind it and i would avoid the self stick veneer all together (may pull loose) but im not great at finishing (Prefer no finish so as not to alter tone) someone else will chime in with better sugestions im sure say maybe Setch or Mammoth Guitars as these guys always have the best answers

I have only made a few bolt ons and i used one of those long aircraft bits and i drilled through the neck cavity clear through to the bridge pickup. Then from the rear cavity into the bridge pickup. All my guitars are fully sheilded so i dont use a ground to bridge. If i made a neck through i would drill from the butt end to the pickup cavities. Same goes for an exploer switch i would drill the best angle through the horn through the switch cavity into the neck pickup cavity on the last two suggetions i would pray my ass of i drilled a strait hole LOL

How stiff is the lock when you lock it is it easy or hard both my porter cables were kinda loose when i purchased them so i readjusted them to be a bit stiffer

I have a peavey raptor neck you can have its funny i offerd this a few times for people that were trying their first refrets and what not any how yours if you want it

Pete you are totaly correct I just phrased what i was saying wrong first no its not a tru dummy coil but its intention was to reduce hum not to increase power or color the tone (Biproduct) and because of the cover the screws can read the strings better than the slugs and even more so if the pickup was poted in which case there would be wax between the slugs and cover which would make the screws the domminet coil as it can get closer to the strings any how thats how it should have read if i was thinking better sorry all

What all this shows is exactly what was in my last post to some degree that is the S/N/S polarity driver. When droped in a standard srat would magneticly read S-S/N/S-S. this would be pickup/driver/pickup common sense tells me this should trap EMI. And maybe even reduce single coil hum. The last few post all show this in one form or another. My uncle has a machine shop and im gonna see if i can get in there and make that Fernandes sideways setup. But make a one peice three blade polpeice that would have two magnets and two coils like the fernandes not sure how this will work but worth the try. This would give me the S/N/S that im thinking of Anobody think this is worth the effort?

I get a small amount of "Fizz" but its not from the sustainer its my pickup. It was a dimarzio double whammy now a jackson j50. the fizz was gone with rolling back the volume. And it happend with or without the sustainer. Thats why i switched to the lower output pickup. The system im using does not work as well in the middle position Emi is not the problem just does not sustain as well. And reversing phase changes nothing for me (not sure why). The rail has worked better than all the drivers i have made including the bilateral so i must agree with Pete that a rail is better. But i also think the rail is not he best solution. as it has a north and south polarity. of all my home made drivers though this worked the best. I have since gone back to the rail in the neck and humbucker bridge. It just works the best. And a laminated core also worked a little better as i could focus more energy on the higher strings. My latest tweaking has been to design as driver that was S/N/S polarity the thought being on a strat the magnet polarity including its own bridge and neck pickups would be S-S/N/S-S thus traping the EMI feild. Does this sound correct?

its all a matter of taste but the JB is a great all around pickup

All of my home made driver's got a little warm. But im pumping alot more power So i would stick with the glue or epoxy. you may not have that problem but if it got a perfect driver i would hate to lose it from "soft wax" Like anything related to guitars it just takes time. look at Pete....time but thats just my thought. Oh and im working on more sounds still. I cant get a good clean level from direct so those sounds will be miked you'll be able to tell its the sustainer and not controled feedback though and dirty sounds ill use Revalver and go direct

+1 means i second that suggestion or i agree

I'm not so sure about 32 screws lol must be a typo and are you sure you have humbuckers and not P 90's? if your replacing all the electronics $70 is a pretty fair price and you won't have to worry about any problems if you choose to do this yourself then listen to what Al has said as he is correct its a pretty strait foward operation

+1 on the Duncan JB and you can get either pickup with or without the cover

Prostheta is correct on the pole peice spacing. rails would be better or bigger/more poles likes a duncan invader/carvin 22 humbucker plus most but not all buckers are much hotter than a bass pickup to help push an amp into overdrive. and overdrive is more desirable to guitars than to a bass but your own ears determin what you like

Beyond the realms of death/Judas Preist lay it down/Ratt rumbilin train/ Badlands antything by any of these artist Randy Rhodes David Gilmoure Vivian Campble Ed VanHalen Steve Vai Joe Satch Peter Klett/Candlebox Tom Keifer/Cinderella Slash George Lynch and a vast number of others and this was edited because my dumbass forgot about Iron Maiden as i play Phantom of the Opera and Stranger in a Strange Land and To Tame a Land almost dialy

Think about the history of the humbucker and Seth Lover's Patent the original thinking was not based on tone or power it was noise cancelation. and humbuckers for years were based of this principle there is usualy one dominet coil (screw polpeice) and one "dummy coil" (slug polpeice) the cover further acted as a sheild and the screws protruted through this cover to better pickup the vibration of the strings. but the dummy coil still colored the tone (just like a capacitor) and a minor increase in power (biproduct)of the twin coils enter the after market and the focus shifted to power(Super Distortion's) and others. wich used both coils (no covers) to produce more power resulting in(higher mids) now we are back full circle sort of (virtual vintage). one "active"coil one dummy coil to obtain that single coil sound with no noise so does a cover affect tone? that answer would be Yes but most people would not notice it in a blind test as far as PRS himself i read this in a guitar world interveiw for his 20th anniversery to qoute Mark Quigley of PRS guitars "on a hearing scale there are normal humans, then dogs, then Paul. design and build for over twenty years and you too would be like him

use 3/4 MDF its much better

Thats a great match of wood as i can't see the scarf joint and the truss rod is just too bad. what about the gotoh side adjust truss rod warmoth uses like this http://www.mercasystems.com/gotoh-truss-si...62e63bdc855bd42 those damm bloody americans